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My Toyota Motorhome


Found 5 results

  1. While doing some routine maintenance, I was alarmed to find some moisture under the cabover bed today. Our 91 Warrior stays under a cover 24-7 to help prevent this kind of water damage: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TKJLRW/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1 My alarm turned to complete dismay when I discovered layer after layer of mushy, rotten wood over the cab. I'm going to need your tips/tricks to figure all this out, for sure. To start, here are a few questions: 1) Do covers really offer much protection from rain? 2) Just about everything under the bed is ruined, but the sidewalls seem firm/solid; will I need to tear those vertical sidewalls apart in order to rebuild the "base" area? 3) Does anyone have a drawing that might correspond to the structure of my Winne? 4) In the second photo I'm attaching, you can see the piece that joins the two outer sections of fiberglass skin. There was no trace of adhesive/caulk/butyl where those pieces come together... I know this seam is on the underside, but surely there's still a need for some waterproofing. (?)
  2. Are there causes for the coach water pump cycling when the system's not in use (no tap open, not flushing toilet, etc) other than leaks in the system? My pump does this somewhat intermittently. For instance, about 90% of the time, within 30 seconds after I've closed a tap or completed a flush, the pump will give one very brief grunt. About 50% of the time, between 3 and 5 minutes later, it'll give another grunt. Sometimes, but rarely, it'll grunt again 5 minutes later. After that, it doesn't happen again. I can (and have) leave the pump on all night and it won't grunt again. If its has its first grunt or two, I can turn it off over night and it won't grunt again when I switch it on in the morning. Other than one short section that runs behind the fiberglass bathroom unit wall, I've checked all the piping and connections and they're bone dry. I've checked the drain tubes coming from the system drainage valves, and they'd dry. I've checked the pump and the floor under the pump, and it's dry. I have checked the plumbing going into the water heater, and checked in, around and under the compartment it's in, but I haven't pulled the heater all the way out. I'm stumped! I did drain the system last year, is it possible there's an air bubble in there somewhere that's causing this? I've used all the taps since then.
  3. Just noting here, for fellow Warrior owners: I recently replaced the city water inlet with Valterra A010177LFV (check valve broke on the original; don't know how it lasted this long). The required cutout for the Valterra was identical, paint color was close, flange was exact same width, and even the three screw holes lined up perfectly! I like the metal construction on the new inlet, and it's very helpful that they include the butyl sealing material, new screws, teflon tape, etc. I'll post up a photo sometime, if I remember to take one... http://a.co/giLsBl4
  4. Last weekend when I went to fill the fresh water tank on my Sunrader Shorty, it started to drop below the vehicle. You can see it in the picture. Being that the rig is new to me, I don't know if this means that there's a leak in the fresh water tank or if the winterization valve is open. (As a California vehicle, I don't know why the winterization valve would be open, but it's possible.) How would I close the winterization valve?
  5. I am thinking of going with a hand pumped 5gal water bottle for my fresh water needs. Anyone doing this? What water filters would be good for a setup like this? (Say, I am on the road and can't buy a new fresh bottle, so I refill and filter from a tap or hose.) Pros? Cons? Suggestions? I really do not want the 25gal tank and electric pump system I have now. I feel it is to heavy as well, I worry about stagnation, foul tastes and bad odors. I also don't feel the need to use the electricity as my rig is so small, I haven't the room for any inverter larger than 2000w, so my electricity usage is a major factor. B
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