smokepolehall

Your setup looks good, nice!

I get my horizonal tank filled at the U-Haul rental center in Millington, Tn. They know i use it in my Toy.

Do you have the horizontal lp bottle or a vertical gas cooker bottle? If your coach is like mine you have gas line and fitting up under the fridg and also going to heater. Did they have access to leak ck.? Plus my pipe runs under floor of coach and several holes where it go in and out and fittings that can leak even crack a pipe.

I hope others can give you some info also. I am not an auto trans rebuild man, i did run a slush box years ago when i raced my Mustang at the strip. So here goes, you say its a new ? trans or a rebuilt one? Has the filter and trans fluid been changed? Shift modulator! Usually thats a sign of stuck ck. ball or balls along with bad o rings clutches slipping in drum and servo not getting enough pressure to shift when cold. Fluid getting by o rings. The down shifting part is possibly the modulator or ck. balls stopping its function.

That does sound as if your gas cap isn't venting. Either clogged or its nonvented.

I don't know, the plumbing in my 79 is ,was a mess. I took all of it out and have gotten new tank and fresh water inlet and pvc pipe and fitting to replace all of it. Glad you were able to get new bulbs, i don't know what size mine take. All of mine work inside and out and i am thankful for that.

I saw a sunrader pic on this site under gen. discussion ( put the saw's all down) and it has a the sandwich layout also. outside shell of thicker fiberglas then foam wood runners another layer fiberglas then paneling. Mine has outside alum. skin then the wood and foam layer then thin ply'ed veneer on walls. So its lighter but prone to leaks and wood rot and alum. corrosion threw its skin. Thats what has happened to mine. I can't save it unless i pour money into it. I can buy a newer and much better Toy for the money i would have to invest in mine.

Best thing on running lights is too open one up and take bulb out . Should be marked on it type and size. I have the same manual and another Haynes that goes up to 78. Chiltons is a better manual, has more spec's and details and i have to get one myself.

i will try to help on some of this, i also am new to owning a Toy since May of this year. Moosepucky can really give more and better/ professional info. You were running off of 12 volts i assume. Plug up your shore power cord and check it first. Mine has an isolator and coach battery and converter. You also should have a seperate eng' battery. I know it has a breaker box, you may can go under some of the files and data down load what applies. Others may have manuals to help you. My 79 came with none, i ask?'s and use trail and error method.

Congrats on your new Toy MH. Check it out good inside and out, don't want any surprises when you go to use it. Try all the appliances to see what does work and what needs to be repaired or replaced. Check floor and walls and roof for water damage and leaks, soft spots. Just ask ?'s and all of us will try to help answer them. Enjoy the Toy!

I guess it depends what part of the USA your in. In the south where i live labor is cheaper. A big shop would hit you up for $1500, a home shop $1000. Any time you have to pull a windshield and gasket to cut out bad sheetmetal it costs lots of coins. Take it to couple of body shops for estimates. You may find it cost almost as much to have it repaired as selling price. Not what you want to hear but its the truth.

The holes below the windshied are called cowls/louvers. You are talking about your cab to roof riser/structial beam door rib and several other names for it over the years. Yes the gasket and glass can be removed. Rust cleaned out down to bare metal and mig or tig welded. Ground smooth primered and repainted new windshield gasket and sealer and windshield installed. Not cheap.

You are so right about not enough room in front of radiator. I would use a diamond style expanded metal mesh for a shield. I have seen other trans coolers that deleted the radiator setup and they used cooler and temps were 20-30 degrees cooler than yours has been showing. My use was when drag racing Mustang, ran a fan cooled cooler not run to radiator. So much better cool shifting than hot and slushy.

Cont. vanco 8's are decent, its getting harder to get good 8 ply rated tires. Seems like tire companys are just not making them much, our Toy's are becoming like dinosours!

You might plug into 30 amp breaker to see if it wasn't getting enough juice. May have bad cap or compressor is stuck, put a bigger cap on it see if it break loose. Hind sight is always 20/20, but you should always run the a/c for 10-15 min.'s every other week. Gets the oil in bearings of compressor and valve and valve spring. The valve or valve spring may have locked up, usually its the compressor.

Look at the u joints also tailshaft of trans seal and bearing. Could even be in punkin, ring or pinion or axles.

Think about this T Greg, the water/antifreeze radiator temps are up in the 200's! Thats what is trying to cool your trans, friend. When i say an electric fan to cool your external trans cooler.

My 79 Odd Duck came with its trailer hitch. I have welded a few on other trucks over the years. I would use sq. tubing at least 1/8" .125, if you can handle the weight 3/16 is much better.

Yes mine is the same way as Tn. titled it as a 79. Mine was built in late 78 but is what they call the 79 model came out at dealers in Oct. of 78.

The ball park figures starting with 1980 is a grand for every year its newer than the 80. Now a 91 in very nice cond. would cost $11,000. 4x4's cost more as do sunraders. So if you are sure its really nice and you checked it all over every nook and cranny go for at that price! I would ck. it completely, make sure every thing works no water damage. Roof hasn't sunk down where it will pool water. Go look keep your eyes open ask ?'s.

Usually the Sunraders are 18 or 21 ft. The fiberglas coach body is a 2 piece top and bottom clamshell. They are heavier than most Toy MH's. I like them better than all the rest and there are 2 types west and east coast. West coast has the front wrap around windows and east has 2 flat front windows. I don't know about how well they stack up on insulation. Check it out top to bottom and underneath, in cabinets every where. Don't bypass anything, make sure it has the upgraded 1 ton 6 lug rearend. My personal opinion is the manual trans is better with 4 cyl. than the over heating auto.

I assume the van is a front wheel drive with a unibody? Are you going to build a complete frame and weld to the cut off part of van? Thats a very iffy project. if you were to use another pickup with long wheel base and chassis it would be lots easier and cheaper! Better you than me and i am a pipe welder and fitter.

Does your auto run the trans lines to the bottom of radiator? Does your cooler have an electric fan on it to cool it down? This is what i would do, run my trans lines to cooler bypass radiator completely. Put a electric fan on cooler or run another cooler inline so you would have 2 coolers. Have been watching those 4 cyl. auto's get rebuilt at costs of $2500 and up!

I am envious, you have a 79 Sunrader and i have a 79 Odd Duck(odyssey)! West Coast Sunrader, looks good to me!

Do you have jack stands? You will need them for safety. Put a set of them under the backend so you can get up under there to work. Take loose the shackle bolt so spring pressure will be off the frame. If its real bad rusted thru or not. I would take fresh steel and weld it to frame. If its a shackle perch or mount thats bad cut it off and weld new one in its place. Paint steel with good rustolium paint or POR.