Jeffrey Burger

Nice class A..

I already completed my rig..yes I can confirm that your info is correct! :-) Jeff

Thanks for your reply WME.

Wow - looks Great!

Thanks Greg...I think I fixed the leak by caulking the clearance lights..(Fingers Crossed) it rained like a MoFo last night and seems dry in there today.

WME, are you saying that the power center may not have had a charging section and the original owner had to install it later? Also that didn't answer my question..I will try to explain it better. Several people have upgraded their converter chargers to 3 or 4 stage units because the 6300 series from Magnetek is a single stage charger that is hard on batteries. My owners' guide says that the charger in my 6332 (32 Amp) charger senses battery charge state and varies the charging rate based on state of charge. Is that not a multi stage charger? P.S. maybe I should get a Dodge Charger 'cause I seem to like the word so much.:-) Thanks, Jeff

Purchased 1993 Itasca Spirit in June with 138,000 mi. New engine 20,000 miles.( Original trans..) 1. 2 new tires. 2. Rubbed off all cracked stripes & re-striped exterior after restoring fiberglass siding...then 6 coats of Zep "wet look" floor finish. 3. Painted front and rear bumpers black, hood white. 4. Sealed aluminum roof and seams. 5. Shimmed fridge door for proper closing 6. Adjusted entry door and used several new screws to the slightly loose and rattling frame. 7. Replaced valve stems in lav.faucet 8. Replaced broken porch light with led model 9. Replaced holding tank sensors 10. "Zepped" all interior wood cabinets and vinyl floor 11. Bought 2000W. Generator 12. Bought portable A/C 13. Seat covers and floor mats in cab 14. Removed broken furnace - connected 10' hose to existing LP and using quick connect for new Mr. Heater. 15. Caulked leaking Fantastic Fan mount. 16. Caulked leaking clearance lights 17. Caulked bath fixtures and around kitchen counter 18. Replaced all interior lights w/LEDs. 19. Put 3000 miles on it and camped 7 times or so. Leaving for a family reunion (2000 miles). Next Wednesday..wonder how she will do going over the Grapevine in So. Cal.? 20. Oh yea...2 oil changes now using synthetic oil...trans. flush. Purchased for $9500 Total approximate cost to date. $12,000. Sooo glad I'm retired now!. 21. Forgot about the new windshield for the cracked and leaking one. 22. Repaired radio antenna 23. Installed microwave 24. Made new stove cover 25. Used recharge kit for r134 cab air.(still cold after 3months (for now)! Just got back from So.Cal trip...2200 miles with no issues...Yay! (Solid 15 mpg. Used 1 quart of oil, slowest on steepest grades 45mph- 50mph on steep grades. Average cruising speed throughout trip 60mph (3VZE engine).

my Magnetek model 6332 power centers' charging section has been replaced.I know this because the owner's manual has a revision date 3 years after my 1993 Itasca Spirit was built. The unit is a 6332s and the manual explains the 3 power levels of charging it does for the coach battery. I thought the 63xx series was a single stage unit. I have been looking at various web sites where it seems that "everyone" is updating the charging section because the old Magnetek boils batteries because it is a "Single Stage" unit. Wouldn't a charger that changes it's charging rate as described be a multi stage charger?

I don't think it is possible for it to be the side window because the RV is parked in a driveway facing uphill and leaning a coiple of degrees right. I have a feeling that if the clearance lights weren't the culprit I will have to remove the front window. Does anybody know that if you tighten the inside screws around the window does it squeeze it tighter to the body of the RV? October 30th. update...side window is in fact the source of the leak! Jeff

Thanks for the input..I believe it can only be the window frame or clearance lights. The silicone used by the previous owner was not adhering well around the lights..especially the one nearest where the leak is.The window frame seems to have a tight seal around it and no evidence of any staining or leaking anywhere near it.I sealed the lights.We have had almost solid rain for 2 days with more to come.

Can someone describe the construction of the front lower curved portion of a '93 Warrior? I have a small leak that leeched up a foam mattress just at the edge of the rolled inner plastic wall (See photo). I assume that the leak is at the front window because the water is on the inside edge of the ridged foam that is just under the inside plastic sheeting. Would I be correct about the window - and can I caulk aroud is without removing it? I have been using Proflex RV which seems to be very good at sticking. Thaks all! Jeff

Well it seems that the unit does just slide out if it isn't stuck because of a bent edge of sheet metal!!! There is this amazing new device that I found called a "flash light"...amazing!

Thanks for your help Linda, I'll try that. Jeff

Thank-you Markwilliam1

Thank-you Linda. I have the original installation/owner's manual that has good detail but doesn't show if the exhaust vent is just a slip fit or is solidly connected to the furnace.The unit does move a little sideways so if it was rusted together I would have been able to break it loose. Thank-you for helping though...you are awesome! Jeff

I am aware of the ventilation requirements. The exhaust vent hole will be open as additonal air for the heater along with an open window. The heater lights and then the flame jumps off the burner and goes out within a few seconds.This cycle continues endlessly until the thermostat is turned off. I suspect it is combustion air restriction, but I still need to remove the exhaust vent and or furnace to see if there is a restriction. Thank-you for the warning though Linda! By the way, the efficiency of a ventless heater compared with the original is such that it offsets the loss through a window and doesn't use 12v power from the coach battery.

I have a Suburban DD17dsi furnace in my 1993 Itasca Spirit. I would like to remove it but it seems to be stuck and will not slide out.I assumed the exhaust vent is a slip connection and there are only 2 wood screws anchoring the unit to the sub floor at the front.The gas and electrical connections are also in front, so it shoild just slip out of the cabinet cavity right? Help!! I want to store a ventless propane heater connected by a hose with a quick connect to the existing flare fitting and keep it in that spot with a hinged door for access.

Good to hear Markwilliam

Thanks for all of your input. It is interesting to note that the Zep finish also glosses up the dull paint on the hood and looks like armor-all on the dash!! Heck- I might use to shine my shoes too!!!

All I have are the screws.I am going to find an alternative hub cover that I will fab up myself.Coffee can lids!!! LOL

Apparently knowing how many hours of use is necessary to keep your portable generator working properly is the way to maintain it. I have several coiled cord cig lighter adaptors for old cell phones I no longer use- they provide 6vdc,when plugged to a 12V auto outlet. I found an hour meter on E bay that has a minimum 6v input so for $8 it works perfectly, you do need to have a cig adaptor outlet to use it......I cut the end off the adaptor and used generic spade connectors from a kit I bought at a hardware store years ago.

Wow! Zep Wet Look floor finish DOES do a great job...I love the internet!

Wow you are one of the few that have the center screw on hub covers for the duallys! I am looking to find a couple of 41/2" diam. Discs just to cover the ends of the hubs- unless someone knows where to find the originals! The wheels look great by the way! Jeff

Looking good Hunkaman...by the way- I see the tape on your shore cord access door. I found that the cap of a cat litter container is just a touch smaller than the hole so I put a couple of thin strips of the soft part of a velcro tape to make the lid fit tight into the hole. Then I drilled a small hole in the lid and attached a zip tie pointing out to use as a handle to pull the lid for access.works great!