1988dolphin

Anyone have them handy? Thanks

The Volvo red block B230ft, a non interference 8 valve turbo puts out 165 hp@ 4800 RPM /194 pounds of torque@3450 RPM. It uses the same automatic transmission as my dolphin a, A43D. Just a thought.

Disassembled one side to get some part numbers.

Currently in Pueblo, Colorado headed west on highway 50 headed to Sacramento. Thought I would check front brakes, due to many miles of mountains ahead in southern Colorado, Utah and central Nevada and California. They are thin and most definitely need to be done. Has anyone seen a good preceedure manual on this that can be downloaded or watched on video. I have done dozens for front brake jobs on other vehicles, but not on this one. I am parked in a friendly driveway and can do the job here. And suggestion on parts would be appreciated also. I did rear brakes within the last 18 months and they are good. Thanks.

The AW71 and AW71L was a strengthened version of the AW70 transmission used in the Volvo 760, 940, and some 740s and 240s with turbocharged and higher-output naturally aspirated engines. Some have been seen in 1985-87 240s with the B230F engine. Also was used in late model European-spec Volvo 260 series cars. North American market Volvo 260cars used the Borg Warner Type 55 transmission. Identical to the Toyota A43D and A43DL except with different tailshaft housings and tailshaft flanges, both of which are interchangeable.

I am also a fan of turbocharged rear wheel drive redblock Volvos. This may be a work around. AW71Edit The AW71 and AW71L was a strengthened version of the AW70 transmission used in the Volvo 760, 940, and some 740s and 240s with turbocharged and higher-output naturally aspirated engines. Some have been seen in 1985-87 240s with the B230F engine. Also was used in late model European-spec Volvo 260 series cars. North American market Volvo 260cars used the Borg Warner Type 55 transmission. Identical to the Toyota A43D and A43DL except with different tailshaft housings and tailshaft flanges, both of which are interchangeable.

Here is another winner for rebuilding https://skagit.craigslist.org/rvd/d/1982-sunraider-1817/6385491237.html

I am looking at a 1988 Shasta Revere Motor Home. It has the rear kitchen and two large windows on each side rather than just one. I am trying to figure what model it is . The man is selling it at an estate sale and knows very little about it. Is it possibly an 18 footer? Any help would be appreciated.

Ok final update. Currently the camper is in the long term lot at the Naval Air Station in Norfolk. We drove just over 4K miles, with 4.88 gears, average speed 53 MPH, average of 13 MPG. The gear change is a must. Now we are sitting in Spain on the beach.

I live 10 miles away from that camp ground and have been there several times. It is pretty but Faye Bainbridge could be problematic. The hill down to the campground is very steep. There is no room to get speed up and the road contains blind corners on the way up. Could be a show stopper unless you are geared down. The Deming Log Fair Ground near Bellingham is a much better location.

So far rear end gearing has been a game changer. Mileage did drop a bit, now averaging 13 mpg, have driven 2643 miles to date with an average speed of 53 mph. Many miles of grades and high altitudes. Am pleased with the 22re. Granted the vehicle underpowered. Yet when driven within the limits of the vehicle you can make fair time. Our good friends in the Iowa National Guard provided us a great place to park for the night in Des Moines. Even with the gearing change I do not think I could take one of these home.

I am continually reminded of the benefits of recent regearing. Gas mileage so far is 13.1 mpg over the last 2645 miles. Average speed is 52.9 mph. Vehicle holds speed on hills so much better.

I recently swapped 4.10 gears for 4.88 gears. Very pleased with the result. Next step is to swap in a manual for the current automatic. Got a couple of questions. First which manual did you install and why? Were you happy with the manual that you installed and if not why? Plus any suggestions on friction disk pressure plate would be appreciated. Thanks

Continuing to shake down Issues related to recent gearing change. I find that there is only so much you can find out in the safety of your driveway. Drive it till it breaks then fix, repeat regularly. Hit an Orilley Auto Parts in Butte for parts and fabricated a toggle switch and harness connect to the overdrive relay wiring harness. Mounted the switch on the shifter lever as recommended by forum members. Longest day 456.2 miles, average speed 49.4 MPH, max speed of 67.8. Gas mileage on the trip to date on the trip: best tank 14.8, (no way dude), worst tank 11.39, overall of 13.1 MPG. I find that with the gearing change the vehicle allows me to drive the vehicle a bit more assertively. The vehicle will now hold a gear significantly longer on climbs. Lots of long climbs, highest altitude reached today 6400 feet. ATF and coolant temp remained in the normal range. Very pleased with performance. Recent installation of insulation under hood does quiet thinks down a bit. Lastly got an opportunity to stop on a totally dark freeway at night and adjust the driving lights.

Left Poulsbo, Washington this morning. Took the Bainbridge island ferry into Seattle and drove east on Interstate 90 to Spokane. First long day of driving following the gearing change from 4.10 to 4.88. Drove 264.3 miles in 5 hours 32 minutes with an average speed of 48.2 mph, max speed of 64.8. Average MPG today 13.5. The speedometer adjustment device from Comercial speedometer is accurate in both speed and mileage as compared to GPS. Must admit that I am pleased with the two tanks of gas that I burned today. First tank was 13.1 MPH second was 13.8 with an average of 13.5. I have no way to measure the total altitude gained today. That will be a task for tomorrow. Did climb the Cascades and numberous 2000 to 2500 foot climbs. The gearing change allowed the engine stay around the top of the torque curve. Adding a tach really makes a difference. Even with the long climbs the ATF temp did not get and hotter than 150 degrees, the radiator temp did not exceed 195 degrees. This is in the range that I got with the 4.10 gears over a 1600 mile trip. I temporarily bypassed the high altitude switch, which Disables the OD button on the shifter lever. I missed this immediately. Once I get supplies I will run the jumper to the OD switch on the shifter lever so I can grab 3rd when the RPMs drop to 2400 RPM or so. I am very pleased with the gearing change. Something one should think about. Spending the night at a truck stop in Spokane. Apps used today includes; Speed Tracker, Gas Tracker Plus, Allstays Camp & RV, and Allstays RV Dumps.

I have found the 3 light plug a great troubleshooting tool. With that and your multimeter you can figure out just about any electrical issue on your vehicle. A related issue in my 1988 Toyota Dolphin I replaced the original converter distribution box with a Progressive Dynamics 4045. In the process I made sure that the main breaker in the converter distribution box applies power to the 115 VAC side of the house only. A second breaker supplies the power to the converter distribution box. This allows me to take on 115 VAC power for heat in situations where if the DC converter portion of the converter distribution box was energized it would pop the most 15 amp GFI outlets that I come across. When on the road I spend a lot of time camped in the yards of friends and in the process have discovered soon to die 15 amp GFI outlets. Keeping your amperage draw below 15 amps does make life simpler and warmer at night. Since I am driving daily the battery bank, (2 Costco GC2 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series), is always topped off.

Closing out this thread. I sourced the (G144/4.88) third member from a 1995 4 Runner located at Yank a Part auto yard in Poulsbo, WA, cost ($175). I puiled the part myself. I installed it with verbal assistance from several members of the forum. Thanks again. Very pleased with the drivability of the vehicle. I ordered, ($95) in and installed in the speedometer adapter from Commercial Speedometer in Sacramento. Additionally i installed a tachometer, and a transmission and radiator temperature gauges ($85) so I can keep a closer eye on the engine and transmission. I also bypassed the high altitude relay. Pretty cheap all things considered. Well within the ability of the average shade tree mechanic.

i want to replace all the vacuum hose on my 1988/22RE. Where should I look to get the correct hose? Any idea on length of hose necessary? Anything I should know first before I start? Thanks again

I have a 1988 21 foot Toyota Dolphin, 22RE engine, A43D automatic transmission. I typically drive 55 MPH in third running at the top of the torque curve. I will use the overdrive in situations where i have favorable wind conditions but still no faster than 60 MPH. I average 13.3 to 13.7 MPG.

I have been enjoying this thread. I just sourced a 4.88 geared third member in my area. It has an axle code of G144 and came off a 1995 4 Runner. Will pick it up this weekend.

When I painted the interior I used Behr primer/paint combination, go to home depot. Lots of sanding and dusting before painting. I took off all doors first. I brush and rolled the interior. The exterior is Rustoleum Oil based paint. I cleaned up the body with 3m sanding pads, primed with cans of Rustoleum auto body primer, sanded the primer and rolled and tipped the paint on. Go to youtube. You will find a dozen or more folks who have done the same as I. Really straight forward and simple.Here is a new photo with the stenciling.

There are really good videos on YouTube . Look them up they will give the confidence to do the job. You will learn a great deal.

Morning All I am in the process of making the decision to drop gearing from the stock 4.10 to 4.88. I love my RV but my biggest fear when I drive my 1988 21 foot Dolphin / 22RE / automatic is to stall out on a steep hill. It has happened to me once and I needed a tow truck to get to the top. Truth be told I should not have attempted that hill that night. I should have just pulled over. Yet I did not and a lesson well learned. Since then I have greater respect and understanding of the limitations of the vehicle and have adjusted my driving style accordingly. I added a tachometer and ATF temperature gauge and drive with OD locked out. I am completely happy driving 55 MPH on the flats. I just want to be able to drive with a bit less concern about what may lie around the next corner on the road. Since that time I have made the climb up to Crater Lake, (top of the torque curve in first gear), and countless other 5000 and 6000 foot climbs with 4.10 gears. How much of a difference in real life driving does 4.88 gears make? I have spent hours on line using gear ratios calculators so I think I understand the numbers. What I really need is to hear from folks who have actually made the gearing change to 4.88. Were you happy with the change? Was it worth the effort? Where there unforeseen effects of the gearing change? If you were to do it all over again would you do it again? I welcome your feedback.

I painted my 1988 Dolphin with gloss white and hunter green Rustoleum. I used the brush and tip method, see how to do it on youtube. The gloss white has been on for several years and is holding up great. Just put the green on recently, not sure how that will hold up yet. Lots of prep time. There are some runs, but the over all improvement is profound. I get lots of comments.