RunningMan
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Posts posted by RunningMan
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HI. i have an 86 Sunrader with the same crappy press connectors we all have. Wiring is hit or miss underneath as they are old and dry...
So i removed and replaced what i could. All new running lights and led bulbs interior and exterior.
next i tied in Hopkins-48915-Tail-Light-Converter .
Because the Toyota has separate blinkers from stop lights it needs a 5 wire converter hookup. Installed with no problems and everything works as it should.
blink stop turn run
however, when the blinker is on the opposite stop lights dims with each blink
the ground is new and soldered - then bolted to frame. I also tried to tie the ground into the harness but still same result.
any suggestions?
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i have the same panel and a 12v Rm2400 Dometic fridge. When i check the the top of the fuse bank i get 12volts.. and i also get that reading on the bottom for each of the three remaining fuse circuits......... except for the fridge circuit.
it only shows 6-7 volts. ive changed the fuse and still no consistent 12v reading. any ideas?
what size/type fuses should be in line for the fridge?
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i got it. the previous owner made a mess in there but i sorted it out. thanks for the replies!!!
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hi does anyone have a picture of the back side of this switch panel?
Looks like the previous owner had their hands in here and some wires are not connected to the right switches.
thanks
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did you powdercoat the dor window frame? it looks great in black
great jib ob the fiberglass.. looks factory original
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drivers side has black water tank on mine ..
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almost any propane tank service/refill center can take your existing tank and bead blast, powdercoat and put in a new valve and fuel gauge for around 200 dollars. for 80 bucks they can remove the valve - chase the threads and install a new one. money well spent ..
in my opinion.. if you are going to take that tank out for any reason then do a complete overhaul before putting it back. its cheap insurance to never have a leak again
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Yup with the shorty Sunrader's the bolts are smack dab shoved up next to the black tank. I looked at mine and I can not imagine changing the bushings out without removing the tank. Still others have said they did it but mentioned nothing about tank removal. I would love to have someone explain how this could be accomplished. Anyone?
Linda S
the propane tank which is located on the passenger side of a 86 sunrader 4x4 (black tank) must be removed in order to remove the rear spring shackle. the nuts are on the inside and the outer bolts of the shackle are welded. so the only way to remove the shackle is to close the propane valve, remove the hose that connects to the valve and then remove the four bolts that hold the tank to the frame. once u drop down the tank out of the way the shackle can then be removed and bushings replaced.
then re install the tank in reverse order. ( replace the bolts with stainless and now would be the time to test/replace the propane valve or fuel gauge if needed)
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thanks for the thoughts.. . from looking closer at a friends 78 chinook there should be no reason why air bags would fit.
yes my sway bar was rigged up by someone years ago and they got it absolutely wrong. i did not find a replacement that would fit the floater axle so i attempted to refresh the one in place as i was changing out the leaf pack and shocks anyway. what i realized off the bat was the sway bar mounts should not of been welded to the frame and the bar is not transferring and load to the other side as it bottoms out against the frame.
i am looking for the exact sway bar you have in the pics but i dont see it listed anywhere aftermarket. i have been searching junk yards but no luck thus far
what i decided is to remove the rear sway bar entirely, change out my front torsion bar to the increased diameter sway-away bars, upgrade the front sway bar and then installing air bags in rear.
finally, upgrading the spring pack shackles to a thicker gauge steel and adding in harder urethane bushings. all of these additions will def take out some of the sway but most importantly will stiffen the load transfer in a hard turn or when avoiding obstacles on the highway or mountain pass.
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yes some sway and roll is expected..
what problems did you have with you 78 as far a fitment?
firestone seems to have it listed for the 86.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fip-2116/overview/year/1986/make/toyota/model/pickup
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what upgrades has anyone done?... Are you running a sway bar in rear or air bags or just springs/shocks only?
anyone change out the front torsion bars for aftermarket?
i installed new leaf springs, new shocks, all new bushings in rear and tie rod ends, bushings, idler arm, stabilizer shock, ball joints in the front end.
the rig is much better but still has a dangerous amount of sway and roll if i ever had to get out of the way of a deer or trucker tire.
my next step was going to be to add Sway-a-Way torsion bars and Firestone air bags,,
any and all info is appreciated
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Take it to one of the old school full service locksmiths. Its worth seeing if they can fix it.
The person who started this thread did that and it worked out for her.
yes. i will pull it apart. there has to be a way to rebuild the cylinder to accept a new key
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Not usable to replace the lock mechanism in our doors.
Linda S
why? .. please explain... mine is toast. i can open it with any key.
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I kind of wonder why anyone cares about the 75% efficiency of the US furnaces when used for a part-time camping unit. I could see the concern - maybe - if someone was living in an RV full-time in cold winters. But otherwise? The difference is so small - between a 75% and a 95% percent - it's kind of insignificant. At least in my opinion. What I do NOT like is the hot exhaust that can burn a hole in my door if I open it, leave it open and have it against the furnace chimney/vent. I DO like that the RV furnaces are pretty simple. Easy to diagnose problems, easy to take apart, and easy to get parts for. Even for some of the ones made in the 1970s. I wish the same could be said for Dometic refrigerators.
Many brand new propane furnaces made for houses are still 75-80% efficiency. When the higher eff. ones came out in the ranges of 90-95% - they were trouble-prone and complicated. Enough so that many people chose not to use them. I think (hope) they've gotten a lot better and many of the bugs are worked out. Nice thing about them is - the chimney can be plain-old plastic PVC water-pipe and it hardly even gets warm. I just installed a new 95% furnace in my house a few days ago and am hoping they have indeed, gotten more reliable. It is a 105,000 BTU unit and uses 3" diameter plastic PVC for a chimney and 1/2" PVC for a water-drain. My in-laws have one that is 18 years old and it has failed four times, along with needing two new circuit boards. NOT a great record. The new one I just got has a 12 year parts warranty so hopefully it is much better.
yes i agree. the percentage difference isnt a big deal.. i just need a new furnace due to the fan shaft bearing being seized and all the exterior components are a bit corroded... so why not try and find the better model than what was originally.
the 2 stage fan will be quieter along with a more controlled interior air flow/temperature and yes the exhaust would be nice if it was a bit less of a flamethrower.
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Furnaces haven't changed much over the years. The exhaust is hotter because that is the air that was in direct contact with the flame. Air in your camper is fresh blown through the furnace with no flame contact so you don't die in your sleep. The best way to preserve your energy is to insulate by covering those lovely big Sunrader window with something. I use reflectix in cold weather. Cut to size and velcro on so you can slap them up and remove easily.
Linda S
If you look around there are a lot of places you can add insulation. look under your seat tops. Mine had some fiberglass insulation there that had degraded. I added some reflectix behind the rear lower wall and around the furnace. On the other side along the side of the water heater, under the drawer beneath the stove. Lots of places to insulate if you dig around
yes i have removed all the batting fiberglass and replaced it with better insulation. i have installed many on demand water heaters and radiant systems in houses.... they are super efficient and the exchanger manifolds use a similar system, but the rv heaters just are not designed well. what would make them better is to use induction of the cold air from outside and have it flow over the exhaust manifold thus pre heating the air and utilizing less flame but yet still have ample hot air blowing in the rv. also to have varied speeds when the unit calls for heat would cut down on noise and fuel and keep the interior temperature balanced.
i see the specs on the new hydro flames use a 2 speed fan and roller bearings on the squirrel fan. this would require a bit less energy to spin it and quieter too
looks like the 4.4 amp 20,000 btu is a def improvement
SKU:sku #37638http://atwoodmobileparts.com/atwood-furnace-37638-8520-20-000-btu-4-4-amp/
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yes linda.. mine is the same.... The atwood hydro flame.
yes it looks like the water i have is a 3 gal. but looks like the 6 gallon would fit
any idea on what euro efficient heater model would fit? or do they make the atwood hydro flame with better efficientcy? the heat loss out of the exhaust is 3x as hot as the air blowing in the camper
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hi.
Which unit came with the 18' sunrader and does anyone have suggestions on a more efficient units? the fan on the furnace is about ready to go.
thanks
aj
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I replaced my motor and fan in my Jensen range hood with a muffin fan. I still have the original fan and motor that works. I would recommend going to a computer type fan as they are way quieter and draws about 1/3 the current. IF you still want to replace your fan with the original type you can have mine. Give me a call at (707)998-1197.
Bill Rett
thanks bill.
any suggestions on a specific model of computer fan that could work?
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yeah i saw that.. the mounts look different. its more horizontal than vertical and that fan motor i dont think till have the clearance to fit .
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Does anyone know what fan can be replaced in the Sunrader Jensen range hood?
mine is missing the motor and fan blade.... trying to put it back as it was originally
thanks
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can one of these work in a sunrader.? i know maybe its a stretch ..
i have old solar and will be putting on new panels and might try to set up a fridge like this with 2 deep cycle Trojan batteries
my original dometic 2400 is dead and im looking for an alternative to the propane fridge in a 4x4 that is hardly ever on level ground
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Here's a few specs.
1977-1978 Toyota Chinook with pop-up roof is 3250 lbs. "dry weight." Same is 3470 lbs. "wet weight." "Wet weight" means all fuel, water, and propane tanks full but no cargo or passengers.
Winnebago Micro-Warrior model 319RB is 4860 lbs. "wet weight."
1981 Champion Galavan on a Toyota model 400 is 3,730 lbs. wet.
I have road tests that give the wet weights for the 18' and 21' Sunraders but don't have the specs here on this computer. I can post later.
any luck finding those specs?
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mine is a 1986 Sunrader 4x4....
Dometic 2400
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted · Edited by RunningMan
hi. i have a RM 2400 Dometic fridge in a 1986 Sunrader and only the freezer gets slightly cold and the coils on the back are hot
is this a candidate for the 24 hour flip method or the Amish rebuilt cooling unit replacement?
whats the chances of an old clogged fridge catching fire ?