yotastrange

when you have your toy all ready to go how did you pack everything? Do you distribute the weight? All up front all in back? How do you do it?

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I know running one batt is frowned upon, and don't want to run just one, but in order to use two I need to swap the physical locations of the start and cabin batts locations... in the pic above the black lead coming from the firewall jumping to the isolator and then continuing on to what would be the cabin batt (however the cabin batt will not fit in that location, but will fit in the passenger side start position).. if I wanted to make that the location for the starting batt (as it will hold the tiny recommended batt for starting in this position) and assuming the red wire is in fact the ALT wire lead... If I wanted to swap the spots.. then I would only need to put the white wire on the multi lug mounted on the fenderwell and move the black battery post lead to isolator top where the white wire was..? as far as I can tell, only running the engine will charge the cabin batt, it just wont fit on the driver side location that it is wired for.. There is a tag somewhere that states the gen diodes not charge the cabin batt.. I doubt shore power will .. and I have no solar..so I have to run the truck in order to charge either battery in any case.. regardless of whether I am using one battery or dual batteries suggestions? Eventually I plan on relocating the cabin batt in the cabin and close to the distribution panel, but for now......

this is my isolator the wire on the left goes back to the cabin and has a battery terminal connected to one end that would have connected to the house batt, common sense would make the red wire going to the Alt and the white lead going to the starting batt.. So all I need to do is connect all 3 wires together and that will join the house and starting batts into one so then I can start the truck and run the house from just the single battery on the drivers side...? ROFLMAO.. still wont upload the picture from my computer .. maybe because it was too big in filesize?

maineah yeah, I know, it isn't something I want to do, just a necessary evil atm. I was having issues with the generator (among other things) when I parked it and since I bought it, it never has had anything but automotive batteries in it (even the coach batt was auto batt). Inexperience is an unkind teacher...the coach battery failed and I have been just starting the truck occasionally, then I removed truck batt to use in another vehicle and it failed soon afterward... Now I am being forced to relocate to a place I do not yet have shore power, so I just need to get it started, drive it to my purchased property and be able to flush the toilet and test gen during repair process.... So My thinking is that if I am just flushing and trying to get gen to start I can keep it charged by starting and running the vehicle.. I have read (since I found this site awhile back) that the battery can be charged many different ways.. from shore power, or from gen on the vehicle, and even some solar stuff, which interests me, I have to do more digging when I get situated. But for now I am just trying to get everything working off a single batt so I can move and begin the troubleshooting process, all while being able to flush...not planning on using lights fridge or ac

looking at my picture it seems the black wire is the alt line feed and is connected to the house and the isolator and something else I can't see right now. but If I disconnect the wire going to the start side and connect it to the alt feed lug it should work and I can just disconnect the house batt lead that goes to the house batt since it wont be there anymore... and that should work.. you think ? sounds good to me LOL... EDIT: ok upon further examination... black wire on left from mounting block on fender well is connected to a lead that returns to the cabin and connects to the isolator and goes to the cabin batt positive connection...., The red and white wires return to wire bundle and heads toward the alt, since I have the Toyota "star" cluster near the start batt position on the passengers side and the wire going to it is red, I am going to say the red wire goes to start batt and the white wire goes to the alt.. I will suss all that out tomorrow, but I see what you mean .. if I connect the red and white to the black that should power everything and still start the vehicle..and I can just tape up or remove the hanging house batt cable connector that would have connected to the house batt..

I will get out tomorrow and look at it again, I had two batts starts the truck the other runs the cabin, but if either one is disconnected the function it performed ceases to function. I am trying to connect the new battery to the house and have it run the house and still start the engine. but...the new battery does not fit on the driver side area that is reserved for the cabin batt which would run the cabin but not start the truck... It does however fit on the passenger side which will start the truck but not run the cabin.. JD pics are on phone..That is right. I am going by colors and first glance.. after looking at them it appears the black that I thought was grounded has an insulator between the mounting block and the fender well and the other two wires I assume one goes to the start batt and the other to the house batt positive leads.. the red I think goes to house batt and the white returns to the start batt.. but if I am understanding ... the black wire is a feed wire from the alt and the white and red are feeding the batt positives for both the cabin and start batts.. so fi I want to run both the house and the truck from one battery I need to ...what connect the wire going to the start batt and house to the alt feed lug ? the one lead that would have gone to the house battery really will just hang there in the air?

I do have a 3 terminal isolator, standing in front of vehicle looking at it from left to right there is black red and white. Black is common chassis ground, red is positive house batt and white is neg house batt. Which wires do I move and where? Tried to upload a pic got an error. After I move the wires do I put the batt on the house side after the isolator or on the truck side ? Is there a trick to uploading pics?

I have a dual battery system mounted under the hood, passenger side is starting and driver side is coach. The system works fine, but, I want to go to one battery. I already bought a type 24 marine battery from Walwart. Question is, how to hook power to the coach.? would that be disconnecting the leads going to the coach and tying them into the truck battery posts, that would bypass the isolater, I believe. I don't think I want to hook the posts leaving the isolater that used to charge the house battery to the truck start battery.. I think that would short or "double charge" the truck battery. help appreciated, I'd like to keep the existing circuitry because I do not plan on running just the single battery for very long, I just need to get past a rough patch, the Gen quit on me and the house batt quit on me and the truck batt quit on me .. ROFL.. so I am doing this to repair the gen for now and then I plan to eventually move up into GC batts or LiIon

is there a bushing kit that has everything I want all in one package? should I use rubber or poly bushings? at this point I have new tie rods x 4, new relay rod, new shocks x 4, and since I was sagging on the passengers side I made and adjustment to the torsion bar and realigned the front end.. I still have the rocking side to side.. so I believe it is down to the bushings and/or rear sway bar

1000.00 worth of tires last year ..so yep. all new I think it will end up being the shocks.. gonna change out stabilizer bushing and replace ball joints first tho.. or maybe one side at a time do ball joints and shocks.. have not decided yet.. been working on the working cars trying to keep em workin'. From what I am reading in order to change the shocks or the stabilizer bar or either the lower and upper ball joints.. I need to undo the torsion bar and tie rod and.. I forgot ..maybe the stabilizer bar or the vehicle height adjusting stud so at any rate I may just do a side at a time ..and not use it till I get both sides completed

do you have to remove the bags to slime them?

well now that I have found the correct section in the manual it says it could be one of three or a mutiple of the three ..being tire inflation stabilizer bar or shocks.. and tire inflation is not an issue.. so on to the next.. I will inspect bushings on stabilizer and ..how do I check the shocks.. jump up and down on the bumper? or is that for coil springs?.. ah I can't wait to get this fixed

well this sways in a manner that makes it feel like it will fall on it's side if I turned the wheel to much to fast is that what you mean ? because it is not swaying parallel to the road .. more like the feeling of an inverted swing..? hard to describe...kinda like that old toy.. a weeble.. it wobbles but wont fall down .. or an inflatable punching clown when you hit it it pops back up .. that is my sway.. like those toys.. What kind of shocks are best for these homes on wheels?.. the ones on there are likely original and look rinky dinky..

here is the FSM link http://www.yotatech.com/f114/1983-toyota-pickup-fsm-download-261385/

FSM zip is titled 1983 Toyota Pickup FSM.zip but the opened adobe filename is titled 88_TOYOTA_TRUCK_Service_Manual.pdf hmmm well it seems I never opened the zip file just did it seems I have a copy of the 88 pickup 4WD and the 83 toyota truck manual...

umm ok I got this FSM that I downloaded from uhh someplace ..maybe yota blogs or 4x4 blogs at any rate what bushings am I looking for .. ..LOL and please don't say all of them ROFL.. hmm is there a bushing kit?

I guess I did the front end alignment.. it seems fine.. as for the rest I am not sure who to tell if I have a rear sway bar or if my bushings are bad and all my shocks are old.. as a matter of fact everything on the vehicle is probably original equipment.. it belonged to a man who lived in it but didn't drive it .. when I got it it only had 64k miles on it.. that is what I was told.. the truth of the matter is unverifiable for me.. but I will look into these things when the sun comes up .. I have I know a bar across the front end.. what am I looking for when I am inspecting the bushings and and I would like to replace the shocks and springs but not sure how to ask for them .. it lists as a 1/2 ton pickup deluxe according to the VIN but I think I need heavier duty than that..shrugs

Hey everyone 1981 Huntsman 20' 4 cyl 4 spd dually what happened was this, vehicle handled well and I replaced the relay rod, tie rods inner and outer, both sides on tie rods, because of a popping noise when I turned to the right. it was the relay rod and idler arm connection, it was very loose and falling apart so, since I had to do the one thing I just did everything..pain in the rear but done and done steering is tight and not pulling I did get one cog off on my pitman arm to gearbox because my steering wheel is now cocked slightly to the right BUT, I have an issue that I do not understand and it is this, now when driving if I turn ever so slightly when driving in a straight line I get a "rocking" from side to side of the top of the camper.. as if I had a massive full tank of water on the roof.. what can cause that? .. a sway bar or a stabilizer? I have bags on the rear that I aired up to almost full which before was what I had to do to get a smooth ride that wouldn't bounce the "cheechee's" off my female riders, was not comfortable for my ostomy either. I have not had it very long and drove it to the Ozarks when I bought it .. and when I learned the airbags smooth out the ride and keep the bouncing to a bare minimum .. but this rocking left to right from the top is kinda scary.. definitely a safety issue and causing me concern as I don't want to roll over because I tried to avoid an obstacle in the road.. which before the repairs was never an issue.. So I think I fixed one and created another problem.. but more likely I already had the problem and fixing one thing only made the other much more obvious.. at any rate I have no clue how to stop it and do miss driving it regularly.. any help is greatly appreciated Thanks

someone bypassed your external regulator and put in an alternator with an internal regulator it used to look like one of these http://www.pprok.com/ii/PI0085.pdf