grandview bill

hey tim ... thats why I said almost foolproof....hi hi 73 Bill

the key word is isolation,in our rvs systems its almost foolproof,with the cord only one source can be used at a time hence ,isolation

back feeding a panel can be dangerous if not isolated by a transfer switch,I tell my neighbors to cord connect only,but I do different

about 3 ago a violent storm passed thru knocking out my power.In the past with other rvs , I've used the generator for backup power.I ran a cord to the outside receptacle on the rv.I wont have to do that tonight. I hear the linemen on the job out on the road power should be on shortly.Some rv generators make good stand by units for your home.About 2 yrs.ago I got tired of the outages and put an Onan genset in a permanent building

youre' confused?How about me ,they took " Car Talk '' off the air in NW wisc

do the last resort,follow the conductors ,open the panel ,follow them until you find where they terminate.........sounds like a bit of work .......when i was an apprentice it was my job to go into the attic of some old house ,crawl around to track down cables in the insulation

just went thru all this for same 1991....looked online for hours....finally found one (only one they had)used about 125.00 shipped ,along the way I asked the young kid at the Toyota 'nope 'he said not bothering to look.sometime on a later trip i asked the old guy at toyota to look for me ,he got curious ,he looked a long time and said they WERE available,I asked him if he was sure he said yes about 175.00 .................I would buy from them....dont forget the factory valve stem 15.00

I dont know how common it is but....the loacation should be as close as poossible, (voltage drop) as protected as possible ( heat,road debris) yet as accessible as possible ,lots of compromises

As I finishing posting a piece today....i realised the language in the description of the project was clumsy and unclear.One would think a technical person would have an easy time writing about projects.I think one of the prolems might be ,there is so many ways to describe the same thing.But also ,there are as many ways to interpertate.After all,How many different things are a 'thinggammy jig?"Iv'e read many many technical articles in my life,writing them correctly is an art form.You'll know the good ones because the ideas will come across effortlessly.Years ago a friend was taking a technical writing class at the U of M (minnesota),one of his assignments was to write a description of a wood screw,he really struggled to get it done.Hemingway was supposed to have used the least words to tell a story....would he have been a good technical writer?

the last steps in the monitor install....camera to monitor wiring....this involves getting the shielded cable / with RCA ends from the cab to the camera in the rear,plus an extra wire to pick up the backup lite ckt.i looked under the dash for the backup ckt wire ,but theres no way to see it let alone splicing into it.i started by twisting together 20 ft 1/2 pvc pipe and laid it out behind the rv,I started to push it up to the cab.i had to stay on the passenger side to find a path.I ended the pipe even with the firewall.then cut off the remainng end ,even with the rear of the frame about 17 ft.i starting doing this pipe method for snowmobile trailer wiring ,they really get beat up under neath from ice and snow.Next i pushed the two wires from the rear thru the pipe and out the other end.From there the wires go up the firewall,then across to the drivers side then enter the cab thru a existing rubber bushing with awire harness already in it .The wiring terminations......at the rear i probed with a pin and test lite and found the backup lite.i tapped on to this (pos)wire,this will turn the system on in reverse.next i connected the rca male and female connectors for the camera ouput.for convenience i picked up the negative thru the frame w/ aself tapping screw.In the cab i spliced the rca from the camera cable to the monitor cable .I spliced back up wire from rear to monitor postive power lead.i mounted a rocker switch on left end of dash where the two knockout blanks are.This switch has two wires one to the fuse holder for (positive )..... the other wire connects with the backup wire at monitor...this overrides the backup circuit so you can have the system on wnenever you want ........some notes ....the monitor and camera power supply leads have the smallest wire ive ever seen ,even careful strippng with a wire stripper will destroy the copper....use a soldering iron and slowly melt the insulation away then use solder to tin the wire.Isaw no practical way of replacing these wires..if you want to pick up power at the fuse box ,use one of the plug in adapters it replaces a fuse and adds two with a wire...the system works good ,i did not some noise on the image when I started the engine....i dont care for the grid lines that show up on the monitor....BUT.. this is just a starting point ...if you put the wires in your rv with the RCA connectors you can change cameras and monitor quickly...the connections seem to be standard

well your wrong..you assume a lot the battery was just bought by the other owner and given to us...why are you making this a male female issue? im not

I owned all the Collins A line ,but never a R 390,just never hooked up with one,I go thru phases .my interest goes up and down,I got too much stuff bought some Swans last year and never touched them.I was looking for a Johnson Thunderbolt ( in my area) for 3-4 years,one came up ,bought it never used it yet....I worried my hobby is becoming buying ham radios and not operating ham radios.....hi.....Bill

i hav that same sony sitting right next to me,but you know ........I have half a cabin full of radios....stacked one on the other ....some are miltary communications receivers....but the one i use day in and day out for AM ....FM .....and shortwave....is a 3 dollar Montgomery Wards Airline I bought at a garage sale .....because it works so well on all bands.....i took it apart to see who made it,...about the 1970's ...it was made in Taiwan....not Japan.....theyre not known as quality radio makers ...it will out perform our Sonys....but the Sonys digital readout is a big convenience

The Grundigs are not worth it ,they used to be ,along with the other German tube radios(Blaupunkt and Telefunken)all these tube radios had high sensitivity and fidelity ,they had a bright sound I still find hard to find today.But the issue is my rv ....it sounds like the Clarion is a candidate..usually for a radio recommendation I would go to the other hams and ask but they never seem too interested in consumer electronics

I know you cant imagine not using a bc pre amp ,theyre crappy ,they bring the noise level up ,so everything is louder

Maintenance and repairs ,as you know are not just abstract ideas but add uo to time and money real issues.This is my 5th,I really dont enjoy the work anymore ,i do it because I can and it saves money and because my wife really wanted this rv again.So I'm a reluctant owner.i would just as well have the owner disclose the problems.In rural Minnesota many people would take a car in before they sold it and have everything fixed .Probably wont see that much anymore

Thanks ,I have the Grundig 350,its a disappointment,little sesitivity and it drifts .Even the Sony portable is poor.did one of the ones you recommend come as a car radio? Bill (I also burn wood)

The radio that came in my rv was an AudioVox 1991..it looks like an aftermarket radio..the Toyota manual shows their own radios mounted in the cab...i have the original as built sheet and it shows the Audio Vox as the installed radio.This radio has a tape deck that doesnt work well,the audio is poor...but it does have a digital tuner.,convenient.I listen to an AM station about 45 mi away,In my shops I use old 1950 and 1939 tube radios the AM staions come in loud and clear,plenty of gain left and decent audio.Of the 4 vehicals with digital factory radios 3 wont even hear the stations ,one will barely copy it.The digital tuners lack sensitivity.Here in a remote area,this means youll miss a lot of signals.I replaced the AVox with a Sony I had ,it has an unusual style tuner,kind of a hybrid between the old slide rule dial string dials and the modern digital tuners....it has a red led read out that races up and down the dial.But the sensitivty is poor also....but it has a very reliable tape deck and the audio is good

I think you were the only person who understood my point....the contradiction in what the sellers tell you and the truth....sparse commodity today.....Im 64 years old I have no illusions when I buy something as complex as an Rv as to listen to the buyer,I make my decisions on what knowledge I have....but some people dont have that expeience and are first time buyers,they tend to trust people,some sellers take advantage of that...those buyers get stuck 'picking up the pieces' this young woman who sold this rv was selling it for her aging parents,she probably never set foot in it.Its an odds game with me....is there enough right with this rv for the asking price that I should buy it? And am I avoiding the really expensive repairs....we looked for a year...no big money issues so far ,but many things I want correct.....breakdowns in acar are costly...theyre more costly in an rv...good luck Bill

maybe its my wording ,no the are not in paralell all the time.batt/mom momentary switch' press while turning key for additional starting power not available on Toyota chassis'i said cant be paralelled.if they can be paralelled for emergency engine starting ,that would also work in reverse you said permanent not me

thanks ffor the tips

with a fresh look today ...where to put the monitor....sitting in the drivers seat the best viewing location has to be where the rear view mirror is ...dont use that anyways ..unless my wife is walking towards the back...no good place on the dash...OK thats where is going ,the mirror location...and i think I can hide the wires in the headliner and door window post.....4 hrs later ...its done the mirror is gone ,tthe monitor nows hangs there no wires to be seen and no removal of any trim just a lot of wire fishing...looks good ...to power them both camera and monitor I decided on using the backup circuit with manual override switch can watch behind when i want ,i hope the reverse ckt wire is e-z to get to in the cab .otherwise ill have to take one more wire to the rear

i notice in the Winnebago manual the Toyota is the only chassis where the batteries,coach and cab cant be paralelled...wonder why? Ok for ford and chev

yobure right they are a pain ,and they always have been,keep the lens siliconed, another bad design is that window ,who needs it? and youre going down the road at 60mph and the rain is blowing at 50 right against that window and cl lites

One of the first things I noticed when I removed the battery,to work on the mounting box ,was this battery is wrong.This battery was labled 'marine cranking' which means ant starting service.the correct battery for our rv are the deep cycle type.This battery is meant to be drawn down to a low level of charge repeatedly.The battery in my coach is meant to be used to start engines,short duty and less draw down.I dont want to buy a new battery,actually this one is new i have the receipt.So,whats the problem? its a battery isnt it?The issue becomes one of capacity for my use.How much power will this provide for how long?amp/hrs.I did a simple test....first I made sure the battery was fully charged.The system monitor showed 100%/my DVM showed 13.5 volts and the 'green eye' on the battery was showing.Now to add some load ...I turned on six interior lites...left them on while i monitored the voltage..basically the lites were on for about 6 hours,then the voltage dropped dramatically.So what?I dont care too much about the lites you can see the dimming....but this fall Iwill want to use the furnace,years ago (1979 Campmate)this was a non electric heater,nowa days with the forced air units you need a charged battery to run ...there is a sail switch internally which measures air flow,a safety system, inadequate air flow.....caused by weak battery charge.....no heat...Ican sleep in No.Minn. with it cold at nite....but I like it warm..when I make the first trip to the rear in the morning