Riverman77

Hey you guys, stop beating up on Derek over such dumb questions...does he have an RV or not? Derek, that sure is one cool vintage house on wheels - even without skinny dually wheels! Also, I too could not make that VIN checker site to work for me. Was I supposed to send money to CarFax , or use the free one. It just didn't work for me. P.S. Derek usually brings a huge wealth of great things & ideas to this site! (Except this VIN checker appears to suck) ~Riverman77

Derek, Thank you for your Public Safety Service Message. Just one more reason why we should all be driving with full floating axels. Those old ones are real dangerous! ~Riverman77

Derek, It was my understanding that there was a big lawsuit that surrounded the whole axle recall ordeal. But again, I may have been incorrect on some of the facts. Did Toyota 'voluntarily' issue the new 'beefed up' dually axles to be installed at Toyota dealers and various coach builders? I still wonder why 20 or 25 of these mini RV coach builders suddenly went out of business? The design and style of our micro mini Toy's was (and still is) a super terrific seller. ~Riverman77

Zach, Go to a gun store and ask them for a 'fast open finger pad' type of a gun safe. They are made in several sizes, can be bolted down and no key is necessary to open it. I'm sure they even make a 15" X 10" also. ~Riverman77

Derek, That period in the 1990's, when it seemed that nearly all of the smaller coach builders went out of business, due to the recall when the axles were all failing. Toyota itself (who I don't think did anything wrong) had to pay out millions of dollars. A bunch of small company's couldn't afford to pay for their part of the recall and simply went out of business. National RV (builder of Dolphin) of Perris CA. seems to have been one of the few coach builder's who survived that whole legal mess. That's the way that I understand what had happened during the class action / axle recall day's (in a nutshell). Did I leave anything important out? Or, is the axle story a little different than that?? I could be wrong. ~Riverman77

I used to lay formica (way back in the old days). Karin's idea sounds the best to me. Use a disposable 3" paint roller and paint on at least 2 coats of contact cement. Be sure to fully let each coat dry, of coarse. Slap 'em together and it will go no where. No screws or clamps needed either. Good luck. ~Riverman77

Ya gotta give cousin Eddie some credit; that was a proper "sewer" drain wasn't it?

...And to all a good night! I suppose that many of us give our Toy homes a break for the winter and celebrate the true meaning of Christmas. Meanwhile, we dream of an early spring...only to get rolling again!! ~Riverman77

Thanks for the photo Derek. It looks very much like a typical Dolphin. I'll betcha that Rogue was one of those (many) small companies that made a good attempt to succeed but, got caught in all that legal stuff during the class action lawsuits. ~Riverman77

Celia, I'm not certain that I've ever seen a "Rogue RV" before. Can you (or another member) download a photo of this model for us to see? Also, specifically what kind of questions do you have & about which appliance? ~Riverman77

Yes, John sold his rig on 12-1-13 (see post #18 on page 2).

And also, even not on LSD!

John, Way to go, on the sale of your Dolphin! I'm sure that the new owner will be pleased with all of the work that you had put into it and all of your wonderful upgrades. I wish to thank you for all of your many posts, tips and information that you have provided, here on this site. I hope that we will continue to hear from you about your future adventures in a larger motorhome. Speaking of a larger rig, my tip for you would be: If I ever sold my Dolphin, I would be most definitely move up to about a 24'-26' 'Tiger' motorhome. These baby's come with 4 wheel drive and a big ol' honkin' V-8 diesel! Happy trails to you and God's speed be with you! ~Riverman77

Waxman, I re-sealed my metal drain assembly, a couple of years ago (88 Dolphin). If I remember correctly, the nut in the access panel simply pulled the metal drain straight down. It was a two man operation - one inside the shower and the other outside turning wrenches in the access panel. Ordinarily, I'd use plumbers putty. But for some reason, we chose to cheat and used a bead of silicone instead. Mine hasn't leaked since. Hope that helps you. ~Riverman77

John, Thanks again for this follow up reply. This truly looks likes a synch, now. Now I'll be sure to rub it in my "carpenter friend's" face and show him something that he could not figure out (He will actually be also pleased for these tips of yours)! Happy Thanksgiving, ~Riverman77

John, Thank you so kindly for chiming in with this information. I would have never known how to un-hook the door. Your photo link from Camping World, made the visual more clear. Is there much trim that needs to be removed from the inside of the bathroom or, is it simply ONLY "carefully prying" to gain access to this hardware? Sincerely, ~Riverman77

Dave, Whew, that's good. Hopefully, putting your trim back up will go smoothly for you. Thanks for the tip about the white grease on the roller hardware. The 'closest' roller is a synch to get to. Unfortunately, the roller that is buried 'deep' into the door pocket, I have no idea how to reach it to lube it up. I could possibly squeeze the spray can straw up into the crack, and be hopeful that I make contact. Thanks again. *I'm surprised nobody else has replied to this thread. We've all got some type of bathroom doors, don't we? ~Riverman77

Dave, I was hoping someone may have chimed in 'before' you tore up your door. I'm sure others have run into this same problem. Roller wheels & hardware do eventually wear out and go bump, bump, bump. I'll keep checking back on this thread. ~Riverman77

Dave, I've got an '88 Dolphin with the same sliding door as you have. I wanted to lube up the door rollers to keep my door operating smoothly. So, I asked a carpenter friend of mine how he would remove the door. He said (in his opinion) "no dice"! My friend took a good look at it and felt that the coach builder had built the walls around the door; not to mention that the refrigerator wall is also in the way. The staples, glue and wallpaper would be a big mess to disassemble and put back together. I too, like Dave, would like to ask anyone the same question...and prove my carpenter friend wrong! ~Riverman77

Thanks to everyone, I'll pass these options onto my friend. And, Linda S, it appears as if Toyota (or their discount folks) is able to still sell new ones. Thank you for that link. -Riverman77

Hi Everyone, A friend of mine is trying to locate a standard sized wheel for his 1991 Toyota Wini Itasca. He has located one on the east coast for $200 to $300 plus shipping. Certainly this can't be correct! Are the wheels for our late model micro-mini's truly that rare and hard to acquire? Can any of you fine folks offer some tips to help him find a new or used wheel? My friend happens to live on the west coast in the Seattle area...if that helps any. Thanks in advance, -Riverman77

Now, I do agree, it would be a real let down if what I had gotten was a "TS2" tank that can be refilled ONLY at Blue Rhino. How can I tell if this is so? So far, I am not reading anything on my tank saying "TS2". Where is this marked at? -Riverman77

Yesterday, I traded in my old tank (with a broken OPD valve) for a new one at a Blue Rino dealer. Even better, it was even on sale for only $15.99! I wouldn't have cared one bit if it was light on gas. What I paid for was the convenience, and a "NEW" tank dated 6/13, a "NEW" OPD valve and yes, it even had propane in it. They took my crappy old rusty one with the "BAD" OPD valve and traded me for a "NEW" one for only $15.99. I got the WAY better end of the deal. Now, I'll go re-fill (gas only) this "NEW" tank up a whole bunch of times somewhere down at the local Cheepy-Teepee. And, when it finally wears out or breaks, I'll take a crappy, broken tank to Blue Rino and trade up again. I like this kind of convenience. Absolutely no complaints here! -Riverman77

annie, 1) Remove the Pee Trap and attempt using the plastic fish skeleton tool that Linda suggested above. Be sure that you don't break it off inside the plumbing. If so, you will have a very terrible problem on your hands. If that doesn't work, you may wish to follow the next few steps below: 2) Put the Pee Trap back together. 3) Pour about 1 liter of Coca-Cola (not diet, the real kind with sugar) down the drain. 4) Wait 2 hours. Boil up (a full hard boil) a tea kettle of water and slowly pour it down the drain. If water begins to back up, stop pouring the boiling water. 5) Wait 15 minutes (until boiling water cools down). Remove Pee Trap and reinstall it. Repeat steps 2) through 4). **It may take a few attempts, but Coca-Cola really works and it is 'safe'. Never use Liquid Drain-o. That stuff can blow up and end up with acid in your face and eyes. Be sure to respond back and let the rest of us hear of your results. -Riverman77 P.S. Linda is quite correct about making sure that your roof vent is clear and venting. But, if your shower is draining fine and your kitchen sink is not, your roof vent is probably O.K. and you'll probably find that the clog is limited to your kitchen sink only.

gr8white, You forgot to tell us the name of this fine eatery and which farm town it is located? -Riverman77