Maineah

It is a pain but you can get it try pushing it in towards the backing plate at some point you should feel spring resistance and the adjuster will releace. You will have to hold it until you get it adjusted. The ideal with self adjusting drum brakes is not to allow the brakes to ware to the point that the wheel cylinders come apart they started doing that in the 60's as a safety program. As you can guess they do what they were intended to do and nothing more so if you want a good parking brake and less pedal travel they need to be adjusted. Another tip there is a plug on the edge of the backing plate looks like it has a screw driver slot in it if you take that out you will be able to see the edge of the brake lining and if they are thin you may want to take the drum off any way.

I guess it comes down to how much are you willing to spend? $2,000 is not out of line for a rebuilt engine and there is the option of a used one but they have not been made in a long time so it will be hard to find one with low mileage. If it send a rod through the block your pretty well stuck with replacing it if not maybe a rebuild would do it. I guess you have to weigh the cost verses what it would be worth running.

Here is a trick you might try unless you are sure it's a rod knock. With the engine running (you may have to bring the rpm's up) and knocking remove the plug wires one at a time (pull them from the cap side so you don't end up on you backside) if it's a rod it will quiet down when you pull the right wire and if there is not a noticeable diffrence you might look else where for your noise. If it's loud, like Greg said yank'er out putting bearings in it won't cure it. Well it might for awhile but it won't last.

It's pretty important to try and get the fridge level regardless of what way you power it gas or electric it can cause problems if it is run for prolonged times unlevel it can cause them to fail. Driving is not an issue while they are running level or not only parked. Open flame is not a good thing while you are filling it with gas don't forget your water heater either!

Only ones I know of are OUI and felony convictions. I have all ways been treated well crossing into Canada and I do so at least 4 times a year.

A good muffler shop might be able to help you out some of those guys are real artists with a pipe bender and can make you any pipe you want. Sounds like it was made for the coach and not the truck.

Yes I agree it was a stop gap measure but that was the best they had at least some one was thinking about weight how ever if it could be cheaper retrofit then a proper rear maybe. I doubt that the one under mine will ever give me any problem it has 9 leaves and a full floater! I ended up with Hercules tires, the tire dealer did not have them in stock but by that afternoon he did. So I don't know how long we will be able to get them. 285/60/20 LT's maybe!

You may have a converter issue when you plug it in it does not supply 120 power the power line does so your outlets will work the converter only makes 12 volts DC for the lights and any thing in the coach that runs on 12 volts. If it boiled the water out of your battery it may have done in the converter/charger. You may luck out my stock converter did the same thing to my battery I filled it 2 years ago and it's still working. I did however replace the converter with a modern 3 stage charger/converter.

Good question. A few problems I could see would be tire ware and complexity. Some of the bigger RV use them but I guess from day one they were designed for it. Unsprung weight of the drive axle as opposed to the tag? How would it affect the handling with the spacing between the two axles? The greater the spacing the greater the drag on the inside tires on a turn. Perplexing problem I wonder why they stopped using them? Technology has changed a lot since they first tried them. I can just vision fully independent arms and air ride!

Be careful it has to be exactly the same length or you may get an unwanted surprise when you try to make a turn. It may bottom out and you will not be able to steer around the corner. Many after market outfits sell them it’s best not to experiment with steering parts. OEM defiantly would be the way to go.

I’m a little confused with your post are you saying it shifts differently each time it shifts from a stop, once at 10 mph and the next time at 45? If that is the case no that is not normal. How many miles and what does the fluid look like? Is it nice and red or kinda brown?

While we are on the subject does any one know what the strange connection is next to the fresh water fill is? It looks like a quick connect fitting, on mine it goes no where nothing inside is hooked to it. I know it must have some purpose but dang if I know what. It has no threads just a little lip with a check valve inside. And justin99 if you hook up to your house or a camp ground it would be a good ideal to stop by an RV dealer and buy a pressure reducer for you water line they are only a few dollars and it could save your plumbing.

I work for a Sheriff dept. and we deal with a local company that makes the graphics for our police cars they can make just about any thing you want. They are all computer generated so it maybe you can find some one in your neighborhood that can make them for you.

That would be great Greg did try me one night on my echolink but at 9 eastern I'm asleep 5 AM comes way too early! My link is on a wide coverage repeater and when I'm at home relaxing I switch to 446.015 simplex so feel free to give me a try it would be cool to do a weekend sked some time there are at least 3 of us out there!

I think what he has is the old style that was fastened to the arm with screws. The blade had to be replaced with the same type because the bracket was part of the blade (did not come off). Any way you can buy a adapter that screws on to the arm that accepts the hook type blades that you can buy any where.

Next one I buy will be a class "C" on a Sprinter frame they are only about 2 feet longer then the Toyota and the first ones got 19-20+ mpg with plenty of turbo diesel power. Several coach makers are using the Sprinters. I have a lot of life in my Toyota so by the time I ware it out I will be able to afford a used Sprinter with slide outs by that time they will be 10 years old!

I think you have the type of blade that screws directly to the arm. You need to find a sympathetic parts man they do make adapters that will allow you to install the new style hook type wiper blades. If there is a local independent parts store near you they would probably be your best bet.

Birthday greetings from Maine Greg enjoy!

It,s due replace it.

You may have a problem finding a copper radiator most replacements seem to be plastic and aluminum and probably around $120 I'm not sure but I think the only larger one is for a turbo engine. You maybe better off having yours cleaned and repaired. A proper shop takes them apart and runs a rod thru the tubes and then cleans the rest with a solution and puts them back together. They are pretty good radiators you should not have a issue with them as long as they are in good shape.

They will be a MTH 5 Melamine 5 amp 250V 1/4 X 1 1/4 An AGC or SFE fuse of the same rating should work fine the 1 1/4 is important due to depth of the holder. I have no ideal why they are of melamine construction vibration resistance maybe?

Wow maybe I'm lucky my Onan is very quiet it's a microlite and if I am on the other side of the MH I can barely hear it. It is not a quiet as a Honda in a suit case but not bad. It is in a nice sealed case and has a huge muffler (well huge for a little engine) Wonder why yours is noisey?

That's a good ideal!

A stage 2 might be a little "grabby" sort of engaged or disengaged and not much in between. I also think your fly wheel is "stepped" the clutch surface is slightly higher then where the clutch cover fits so make sure who ever turns the fly wheel knows what they are doing. I guess you'll have to go by the truck VIN# as to when it was built.

Hard to say Mike I hope the cable adjustment does it for you usually if the shifting becomes random or refuses to shift it's a governor issue. All of them things take quite awhile to shift back into O/D once they have down shifted because the drive shaft speed is slow to increase at hiway speed.