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There have been many tests of the K&N's filtering ability bottom line the OEM's do a better job. Will this shorten the engine life? probably not. What I can tell you never use an oiled K&N filter on any engine that has a hot wire MAF sensor the oil will kill it. Fortunately the older Toyota's do not have a hot wire MAF.

Yes I know what you mean I'm not retired but will be in 2 more years just need to get the time in where I work. A lot of the campgrounds will swap a spot for a little work around the campgrounds, maybe if you knew where you are going an email or a call to the campground ahead of time you might get a few free nights. I had thought about contacting the state visitor info centers and see if it is possible to stay there over night. There is a huge one here in Maine that has trucks over night in their parking lots. Most of the camping I do has a purpose so I camp for free there but when I go to a camp ground with hookup etc. it's usually $40 a night that gets expensive real quick. p.s. 1/17/46

Not working, leaking? If you need to get it through inspection and the diaphragm is good (holds vacuum) yes they can be cleaned the needle has to move when vacuum is applied.

I added two 3" 12 volt fans to cool the condenser but I only have to turn them on when the weather is really hot or I'm parked in the sun. The fridge will only cool a certain amount below air temp so if it's quite hot the fans will defiantly lower the temp in the fridge.

I believe there is a tiny window on the front of carb with a line or a dot in it the fuel level should be close to the mark if it is a lot above the mark or all you see is fuel that would explain the flooding and the stalling the fix is inside the carb and it will have to come apart. It does sound like a carb issue there are a lot of parts in those carbs so repairs are not for the faint of heart.

NAPA has them or can get them either white or rather pricey stainless. I bought some for mine and they had 12 in stock.

Not a good things to run the fridge if it's not level it does bad things to the fluid inside. When you are driving it's not a problem because the movement of the camper mixes the fluid up. Here's a pretty good explanation of how your fridge works... http://bryantrv.com/reefer.html As far as your heat I don’t see a problem with that the exhaust is fan forced so it does not need a draft.

Any thing over about 55 starts to cost you in fuel the wind resistance really takes it's toll and driving into the wind makes it worse. 50 over the hills sounds like you had your foot to it. With the O/D off it's going to rev a good bit higher too. Some of the guys with the V6 can do close to 15 mpg. It takes a light foot to get decent fuel mileage with the MH, a 21' is going to weight a good bit over 6,000#.

Wow I'm 2 years younger then 3 times the age of my 87! It runs better then I do too!

If the rears are new it maybe nothing more then a readjustment now that they have seated in a bit.

You have a lot more room then I did I could only get 66" by 32". I had a local mattress company make one for me with 4" foam and then I put 2" memory foam on top it is very comfortable. Did the same for the bed over the cab deleted the cut out (never climb in the back while I'm driving any way) now we get a really good nights sleep, the couch was worse then sleeping on the floor. I found pillows to replace the missing couch back (long and skinny)at WalMart.

Ok if you are just changing the fluid in the pan then dextron fine (personally I would have it flushed the fluid takes a beating). Be sure to check the bushing in the tail stock if the seal is leaking. If there seems to be a good bit of play it would be a good ideal to replace the bushing to save you some problems down the road.

I’ll assume you are changing it? I would do a flush and use synthetic it does better with heat. Dextron 3 is fine synthetic is better. How many miles?

Yes you need truck tires they should be rated "D" all 6. Your little MH weights around 3 tons.

That little trick is best left to those that know exactly what they are doing it's high voltage wiring and done improperly could be deadly. Your inverter will require at least a #6 wire and be as close to the battery as you can get it the lighter socket will not cut it. Using your microwave will draw a minimum of 50amps from your battery the little socket is good for maybe 10 amps tops.

No because the charger/converter will try to run you can't take power from the battery and try to put it back in at the same time with the charger, when you plug in the cord to the inverter the charger/converter in the motor home will run like it or not. If you could/can turn the charger/converter off your ideal would work just fine. If you know some one clever with electrical work convince him (a beer or two might help) to add an outlet for you just for the inverter. You can run a 600 watt microwave with the inverter but remember it will draw a lot of power from your battery so use it sparingly.

Yes, there is no such thing as a free lunch your charger will try to run and it's not very efficient so you will end up with diminishing results. Most of the charger set ups go right to the main breaker so you can't turn off the charger too bad because without it, it probably work fine.

If it was a solid state isolator it would have wires going the the alternator. The black wire is some thing I would like to know about it looks like it just loops around and goes to the other side if it does it defeats the purpose of the isolator.

Don't think you want to bend it not even sure you can. Your plumber buddy should be able to help you out with fittings to make all the angles you need to make. I'm guessing it would be easier to remake the entire system then to try and rethread the old one.

Can't tell what you are pointing at but you have a solenoid type. Where does the black wire go? It looks like it loops around and connects to the other side. Does it "click" when you turn the key on? The alternator is not connected to it, the small wire goes to the key switch and only carries the load for the coil in the solenoid. One wire goes to the truck battery and the other to the coach battery the alternator charges the truck battery wired by Toyota there is and extra wire that goes to one side of the solenoid from the truck battery the other side goes to the coach. When the key is off there is no flow from the coach to the truck battery this keeps it from draining the truck battery. When you turn the key on the solenoid connects both batteries together. So with the engine running you should have pretty much the same voltage on both big terminals they look pretty nasty take them off and give them a good cleaning. They do go bad but seldom make sure it "clicks' when you turn the key on. What you can do is remove the wire to the coach turn the key on and check the voltage on the empty terminal should be real close to the battery voltage watch the coach wire it will be "hot". If you put it all back together and the voltage is still low it's bad inside (burnt contacts)replace it but be sure to get a continuous duty solenoid it looks like a Ford starter relay but it's not don't let them sell you one it will burn up in about an hour.

Cheap LED's cheap results. Most are not very bright expect to pay $30 or more for good ones. There are a lot of replacement 1156 size LED's if they do not list lumens I would not buy them a 1156 bulb is around 400 lumens (measurement of light output) cheap LED's may only be around 30 bearly enough light to read by super bright around 120. If you can buy some locally take them home and try them that way if they are not bright enough for you, you can take them back.

Good deal on the plumber friend he should be able to answer your questions. Black steel is just steel pipe (not iron) and from there you can use copper line I'm pretty sure it does not have to be thick copper because of the low pressure again pick your buddy's brain I don't want to lead you down the wrong path. Maybe he even has a threading machine to do the steel pipe. They do make a plug for the flared copper line so you can cap the fridge. It's all low pressure back there but you do not need leaks.

Some where on the MH is a sticker that says it conforms to the NFPA codes I guess you could look it up on line. Some where there is some thing about black steel piping and I think it has to be what is used under the MH. I don't think they hired master plumbers to pipe the motor homes so I'm sure it is some thing that you could do. Leaks of course are the biggest threat things like double flared copper fittings etc. would be mandatory.

I don't know where you can get a manual but welcome, feel free to ask questions there is no such a thing as a dumb question we have all been there once. The Toyotas are a little different but all motor homes work pretty much the same there are a lot of good articles on line explaining plumbing, heaters, and the likes.

If you want a scare have a look at what holds your bumper on it's not much more then sheet metal.