Maineah

It won't hurt. Oil never really wares out it just gets contaminated. The rear axle stays pretty clean but bits of metal and maybe a bit of water can accumulate so at 100K it might be time. I would consider synthetic as a replacement as long as you are going to change it.

Welcome to the club it's a labor of love you'll have a lot of fun when you get it all together. I'm so glad mine is fiberglass!

A work in progress the bath counter is now blue

Yes you can do a flush with two people just don't run it dry and be sure you have the pressure line otherwise you may have fluid coming from where you did not expect it!

It's all most impossible to fix some thing that you are not standing in front of every thing is just a guess with out hands on. I taught for Bosch in the 80's and the first question was what's the fuel pressure? and I all ways got "I'll have to call you back" so it's a multifaceted interrelated system. I'm sorry you can't find some one that you can trust to help you out and it really does suck to brake down when all you want to do is have some fun. Have you checked the phone book to see if you could find an independent that specialized in Toyota's?

Yeah it's reading charger voltage. WM has little 2 amp chargers that are maintainers, you'll have to plug it in to the house if you plug in the MH it will make the charger/converter run. The isolator is a nice option if they work right (the relay type) if your truck battery is weak you can turn the key on and it will give you a little boost.

It has a plastic screen easy to clean parts stores should have a gasket for you. It will hold some where around 9 qts. just dropping the pan will get about 4 qts. How many miles on it?

Probably will not make much difference in the temp but synthetic will withstand higher temperatures. Best place for the temp probe is in the pan. There are several brands of synthetic just get a brand with a name you recognize I would recommend a full flush not just pull the plug and fill it back up.

The ECU's take a lot of information into consideration in order to make the fuel mix correct and other then the O2 sensor they have a big effect on the running of the engine, if they are bad it runs bad. The O2 sensor reads what it is given and acts to correct the mix if you looked at a graph what you would see is rich/lean, rich/lean repeated and if you looked at this information over time it would average out to a respectable mix your engine is a pretty good engine is it one of the best maybe not but is it bad if it only lasts 200K? Frankly I think you have been a victim of lack of knowledge or effort to really try and find out where your problem lies. When I mentioned asking people about their experiences with repair shops I meant Toyota's in general they made millions of 3 liter 6 cylinders in trucks and pickups some one out there knows what makes them tick. You are right about the loss of compression I can't answer what happened there but I would have liked to have seen the valves.

That sure sounds like an air pump part. The pumps ran all the time so when it was not dumping air into the exhaust it dumped it into the air cleaner. A dead give away would be your exhaust manifold if it had an air pump there would be some type of plumbing in the exhaust manifold (provided it has not been changed). At the time the pump was used that was the way to reduce emissions many things were changed the quantum leap was EFI, carbs were fixed mixture and could not adjust to changing demands of the engine. If all of the stuff is missing the chances of finding the parts will be close to nil or wicked expensive from the dealer.

One of the problems at the dealer is old technology a lot of the guys are young they may understand a 2003 but when your MH was made they were 10 years old! I would look for a good independent shop that would take the time to sort your problems out. A lot of people own Toyota's ask around and see if they can suggest some one.

OK try this, buy a cheap 12 volt test light most auto parts stores have them disconnect your positive battery cable clamp the end to the post and the probe end to the cable. Make sure you have every thing turned off, if the light is on (I suspect it is) start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes off if none of the fuses make it go off then start disconnecting the wiring to the coach until you get the light to go out. What ever makes it go out is the cause of your dead battery. If you have cell phone chargers or some thing that would normally stay on disconnect that first it's probably not enough to kill the battery but it will screw up the battery draw test. All though it's rare alternators some times will cause a battery drain so if all else fails disconnect the alternator.

O2 sensors do go bad they are expendable but not every 30K. Unfortunately it's not new enough to be OBD2 and you are stuck guessing. When you have a code there is no real definitive answer with blinking lights. In other words if a mouse took up residence in your air filter it would throw an O2 code for a rich mix but it would not be the fault of the O2 sensor. Sounds like you really need to find some one that really understands how all that stuff works.

Is the truck battery like dead after 2 days? or it just will not crank. Or better question how do you get it started?

Well the 4 cylinder (and that was asking a whole lot of a pickup engine) only has one exhaust valve so does my tractor and lots of big trucks. Granted twin exhaust valves breath better (more power in a small box) but not a necessity. I kind of remember a emission related mileage reminder that cycled X number of miles but I think it was in an older design. Both the codes are O2 related codes the O2 sensor is not overly expensive I would try replacing it. Do you have the manual for the truck maybe that might give you some insight into the light issue.

Yeah it's wired wrong sounds like some one tried to "fix" it. Truck battery wire on one side (big post) coach battery on the other small wire to the key switch. The little boxes are circuit breakers. Now if both are hooked to the same post essentially both batteries are hooked together so maybe you are looking in the wrong place for your truck battery issue. I would disconnect the coach battery, tape it and see how that effects your truck. If all is well then your problem is with the coach end. NAPA or the likes should have the relay make sure they understand that it is a continuous duty solenoid.

Try stepping on your brake on and off when you are stopped and see if it goes away or changes you may have a brake booster vacuum leak they will squeal like a pig.

Yeah that's pretty yucked up you can check the diphram by sucking on the hose that should lift the needle. I'm not sure what your other part is it looks like a diverter valve for an air pump. I did not get what year your MH was and I'm not sure when they stopped using air pumps but they pumped air in to the exhaust and the valve shut off when you let off the gas to keep it from backfiring and blowing the muffler off. Great them old engines. Likely as not if it had an air pump it's long gone they locked up around 30-50K and people just took them off.

Adjusting the valves on a 3 liter engine is not exactly an easy job and adjusting bent valves will not cure them. Valves don't just bend some thing has to collide with them some thing sounds fishy. Just about any NAPA store should be able to provide you with an O2 sensor they carry Bosch sensors, good brand. About the only real issue with the 3 liter engine was head gaskets and Toyota fixed them for free. I had an 89 4X4 3 liter still running strong at 192K that had never been apart when the frame got to rusty to be road worthy.

Birthday present?

I'm thinking the heater is about 75 watts so you could probably run it 24 hours for some thing like 28 cents, on 120 volts the heater does cycle so it could be a little bit less. The gas flame is not much more the a candle flame and propane is what $4 some thing a gallon? I guess it would be hard to tell how much propane it would use but for 28 cents I think I would stick with the electric at least you don't have to go get more.

That sounds shaky to me I would take it to a local RV dealer and have them check it out. Does the electric pump get fuel from the MH tank? How about the exhaust how did they deal with that? How does the electrical power transfer operate? The units that were designed for use in a MH usually send all the heat and the exhaust out the bottom. Nothing wrong per say with a Coleman generator but an improper install with a generator that was ment to be on the ground could be dangerous.

That's weird. There are a lot of guys that have done swaps I sure they will chime in with some answers for you. What I don't get is the 6 to 5 bolt adapters most of the late module Toyota pickups had 15" 6 bolt wheels. The center hole in the later 15" wheel is quite large but I don't know if they will fit over the 1 ton rear hub or match the bolt pattern. As I'm sure you know the ratios have to match as well as wheel and tire sizes both ends. I have a 97 Tacoma if no one has an answer for you I can measure both the MH and the Tacoma and let you know.

The EGR or “exhaust gas recirculation” passes exhaust to the intake manifold this lowers cylinder temperature by introducing the mostly inert gas into the fuel mix. This is all in the interest of lowering the NOX emissions. They carbon up with age and that blocks the exhaust gas. They can be cleaned basically you got to pick out the carbon some times air pressure is necessary to blow the small tubes out. There is also a vacuum diaphragm that opens the passage to the exhaust port it’s a small rubber vacuum line hooked to the top of the valve. There are a bunch of other gadgets that are also part of the system too. Here is what you can do, there is a space on the top of the valve that you can stick your finger in and lift the valve needle. With the engine running lift the needle the engine should start to run rough maybe even stall if it does not then the valve is plugged up.

There really is not too much that can go wrong other then rust and running them when they are not level. Mine is 23 years old and will freeze stuff in the lower part if the weather is in the 40s. Yeah I have to clean the gas tip once in awhile but that's about it. I had a full size gas fridge in an apartment I rented years ago that the owner said was 45 years old.