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The added factor is that many RV users do not get the benefit of buying propane in bulk. Often when the currrent bulk price is $3.75 - the price you pay when having a 20lb. or 30lb. tank exchanged costs $5 per gallon. Especially with the new "partial fill" rip-off that most of the big name filllers are doing. Blue Rhino is one of them. When filled correctly a tank should get an 80% fill. A few years back when prices skyrocketed - many fillers started filling at 70% fill so the price did not have to be raised. When prices came back down - many stayed at that rip-off 70% fill. I know Blue Rhino did at Walmart because I checked recently (this past summer).

If gasoline was $4 per gallon and propane was $3.59 - the gasoline was cheaper. A gallon of gasoline has a lot more energy and makes more heat then a gallon propane. That propane would need to be cheaper then $2.60 per gallon to be a "cheaper" then gasoline at $3.59.

You could probably make that all work with a good extension cord and a grid-powered 15 amp outlet from the house. By code - any modern 15 amp outlet will be wired for 20 amps (12 gauge wire and 20 amp breaker). It's called "15 amp" because it has the two parallel prongs but is wired 20 amps unless the wiring is 50 years old. Extension cords can be misleading. I've had several 12 gauge 50 foot cords that would not work on a 1500 watt electric heater. I just melted one yestery on a 1500 watt block heater on my diesel bull dozer. Many 12 gauge cords have a weak-link at the molded ends where the plug is and melt there. A 50 foot HD 10 gauge cord is what you need. Home Depot sells them. Rated for 1875 watts. I've used it on some of my 2000 watt block heaters and it worked well. Didn't even get warm, not even at the plugs. This is from the Home Depot description. Life Link 50 ft. 10/3 Ridgid Cord, Single Outlet Model # KAB3/KAB3F Store SKU # 479186 It's a extra flexible heavy duty extension cord with triple outlets and yellow indicator light on the connector. 300 Volt rating on insulation jack, -58°F to 221°F. Weather and Oil resistant. Designed for outdoor use. 50 ft. Cord Suitable for the most extreme whether condition Indoor/outdoor suitable for commercial use Suitable for the workshop and industrial site 15Amp/125Volt/1875Watt Approved by UL/cUL MFG Brand Name : Life Link MFG Model # : KAB3/KAB3F MFG Part # : KAB3/KAB3F

Gasoline is not an option to run accessories in a motorhome? Gasoline runs AC generators that make AC to run all sorts of appliances. Gasoline runs the engine that spins a alternator that makes DC current that runs appliances. Gasoline can be used to direct-fuel cabin heaters. Directly or indirectly, gasoline or diesel can run all the appliances in a motorhome if that is what someone wants.

The vast majority of grid-supplied AC power in NY is from coal and tire burning. Small amounts are sourced from hydroelectric, wind, nuclear, biomass burning,, solar, etc. Technically I am a producer and supplier to the NY grid since I sell my excess solar electric via grid-tie. The amount I supply probably isn't enough to charge an elf's flashlight. I sell around 800 KWH per year to the NY grid.

I assume you already know this but . . This is a 120 volt AC plug rated for 20 amps/2000+ watts. One prong is a right angle to the other. This is a 120 volt AC plug only rated for 15 amps/1700 watts and what is usually found on many smaller campers and RVs. Two power prongs are parallel.

First of all, using a wall outlet inside the camper for a high-amp electric heater is probably a mistake. It alone probably maxes out the rating on your converter. The AC and DC are totally separate systems within that converter/charger assembly. If you are blowing that DC fuse (#4) when running an AC (15 amp) electric heater from `120 volt grid power - it's probably a coincidence. All that converter does for the AC supply is connect grid power on shore to your outlets and protect with a circuit breaker. If that AC circuit breaker trips - it's an overload drawing AC. When that DC fuse blows - it's a separate overload on a DC circuit unrelated to the heater. Just keep in mind that you've got the one AC draw from that heater that is likely 15 amps. Then in addition that converter is also using AC power to convert to DC. Since there also must be a DC draw against that #4 fuse - you are drawing more then 15 amps on your AC grid line. That is probably an overload in itself. Read the label on it for max AC rating. If the male AC plug at the end of the converter power cord looks like a normal AC plug with two flat tangs parallet to each other and the attional roundish ground - it's only rated for 15 amps max. If one flat is 90 degrees off from the other - then it is a 20 amp plug and converter which is pretty rare. I suspect as least one problem is that electric heater. Read the label on it. Most are 13 or 15 amps (1500 - 1800 watts). That in itself probably maxes out your converter. If let's say you also had a 20 amp, 12 volt DC draw on the DC side of that converter - that would be an addiontional 240 watts. That puts you over the max 15 amp total rating of the converter. If you like using that electric heater and it is raged for 13-15 amps -buy a good extension cord and plug it directly into shore power. Do not use the wall plugs in the camper. All my RVs have been rewired and have two separate plugs I can use for shore power. One for the converter and the other for separate power strip inside the RV. I use that power strip for the rare occasions I use an electric heater.

I was cutting apart a 1983 Chevy truck today and noticed it uses the same U-bolts as the Toyota full-floater. That from the very common GM 10 bolt, 1/2 ton rear. Same bolt spacing and same tube diameter. Only difference is the Chevy -bolts a bit more HD then the Toyota . The Chevy bolts are 9/16" diamter, whereas the Toyota bolts are 1/2" diameter (13 mm). U-bolts are easy to get made anyway - but this saved me the trouble of having new U-bolts made since I've got piles of the GM U-bolts laying around.

I made the cdmparison because someone said propane is cheaper then gas. Most often it is not but some people just go by the price per gallon and not price per energy unit. Propane hasn't been cheaper then gasoline where I live for over 30 years. When it was - some farmers were running their tractors on propane. Talking cost per BTU for RVs can be relevant for some people and some uses. If someone opts to use a compressor-type refrigerator, AC or DC - then ultimately gasoline, propane, or diesel fuel will supply the energy - to make the electricity - to run the refrigerator and maybe some other applicances. That is . . . unless they are relying on solar-electric panels. Even a propane refrigerator - when run on DC electric mode is using gasoline or diesel to power it. If on AC from the grid - here in NY - it would be in effect- running on coal.

My Chinook now has dual inverters; a 1500 watt modified wave, and a 2000 watt so-called "true" sine-wave inverter. That and a pair of 225 amp-hour deep-cycle batteries in back - not under the hood. That and a Delco 140 amp alternator. Ironically the newer tech Delco CS144 alternator is hardly any bigger then the original 45 amp Nippo Denso alternator the Chinook came with. The dual 225 AH batteries works out perfect for what I do. Will run a 900 watt microwave which is the main reason. Anything less results in a DC input voltage drop that will trip an inverter breaker. I also have an AC cheap dorm-type refrigerator in it. It can run for days just off the batteries with no rechage - but that doesn't happen since all my camping it stop and go. Camp at night and drive during the day.

Are you making all the cabinets and drawers yourself from scatch? I've got a 1978 pop-up Chinook I'm working on. I figure I'll spend the whole winter on it and hopefully use it next spring and summer. I have a Chevy Blazer "Chalet" camper like in the photo you posted. Mine started out with a 350 gas engine and three-speed auto with no OD or converter-lockup. Got around 11 MPG at best. I switched over to a turbo 6.2 diesel with a 4L60 trans (OD and lockup), along with 3/4 ton axles. Gets a best of 16 MPG now which is OK, but not great. I'm sure it would get 23-24 MPG with a 3.9 liter Cummins. Some time I hope to swap one in. What does your 4WD Chinook get for best gas mileage? I'd guess at 15-16 MPG maybe?? My Chinook has got a dual-wheel full-floating rear in it now. No way do I trust the OEM one-ball-bearing per axle setup it came with. I know I'll be a little over 4000 lbs. on the rear, now and then. I also just stuck a W50 five speed trans into in. Direct swap for the original 4 speed W40. Did you have any issues with your roof? Just about every Chinook pop-up I've seen is partially caved in.

Do you know, for sure, that those center sections from non-floating rears on Ebay fit the full floaters? They look the same at a glance but can't say I ever tried to swap one in.

Yes, but when it comes to the Toyota full-floating rear . . . if a person already has a 4.10 and wants to go higher- chances of finding a complete center-section are probably near zero. Aftermarket ring and pinion sets are available and likely the only choice. Too bad since Toyota uses a removeable carrier very similar to Ford - unlike the many GM axles that are Salisbury (no carrier that comes out as an assembly).

I forgot to ask. What sort of space heater and it's getting power from where? Hopefully you're not trying to run an AC electric heater through an DC to AC inverter. The on-board furnace is not technically a "space heater" so I assume you mean something else.

The relay doesn't care which way it faces gravity. The issue is the small water drain hole. Not all relays have the hole in the same place and some have none at all. If it has a drain - it needs to be on the bottom. If the drain is on top it will just gather moisture instead of letting it out.

Regardless of what might be wrong - none of those areas should show any sparks. So, #1 you must have bad corroded connections. Clean them up with a wire brush and maybe add some stainless-steel tooth washers designed to promote good electrical contact on ring-terminals. #2 - you the clicking is probably that self-resettting circuit breaker firing on and off. That may be due to an overload - but also can be caused by "old age." Those circuit breakers use a small heat-sensitive bi-metal strip and a set of contacts. They get worn-out over time and lose their current carrying capacity. So, so checking is in order. I might be a 30 amp breaker that is worn out and cannot even carry 10 amps. Or - it might be a 30 amp breaker with a 50 amp load on it and keeps tripping. If so, it will get ruined fast anyway. New self-setting breakers are only $8 each at any decent auto parts store. Your old relay might of been getting hot because it was the wrong kind. Many relays used on cars and truck are only rated for part-time use. They draw more current and get hot if on all the time. That's why your setup is supposed to have a low-current "full time duty" relay. Many part-time auto relays that look the same draw 6 amps, whereas a full-time relay will often only draw 3/4 to 1 1/2 amps.

Are you using polyester resin for the fiberglass or epoxy? I tend to use epoxy for my fiberglass projects that are outside. It can cure in temps down to freezing.

Just about anybody that can turn a wrench can swap a transmission. Changing a set of gears in a rear axle is much more complex and takes expertise. Changing the entire center-section with a complete used one not so complicated. To change a ring and pinion there is a lot of set-up. Pinion depth, bearing preload, backlash, etc. Not an easy job even for many some mechanics and I've seen a few get ruin at repair shops.

What are you paying for propane? I was in Maine last month (Demariscotta) and had a 30 lb. propane tank filled and it was $4.50 per gallon. I have no idea what bulk prices are there. Regulator gasoline here in NY is $3.75. For propane to be cheaper it would have to be priced at less then $2.73 per gallon since a gallon of propane is only equal to 7/10ths a gallon of gasoline.

Going down a hill does (sometimes). Probably the ideal combo is a 4.88 axle ratio and a W56 trans with .8 overdrive. But that is a lot of messing around. Here's what some changes would be for various types of changes: With no over-drive in high gear at 65 MPH: 4.10 – 25.5” tires – no OD – 3500 RPM at 65 MPH 4.37 - 25.5” tires – no OD – 3850 RPM at 65 MPH 4.88- 25.5” tires – no OD – 4300 RPM at 65 MPH 5.29- 25.5” tires – no OD – 4650 RPM at 65 MPH 5.62 - 25.5” tires – no OD – 4950 RPM at 65 MPH With a five-speed and over-drive in high at 65 MPH: 4.10 – 25.5” tires – with .8 OD – 2750 RPM at 65 MPH 4.37 - 25.5” tires – with .8 OD – 2950 RPM at 65 MPH 4.88- 25.5” tires – with .8 OD – 3300 RPM at 65 MPH 5.29- 25.5” tires – with .8 OD – 3600 RPM at 65 MPH 5.62 - 25.5” tires – with .8 OD – 3850 RPM at 65 MPH Transmission, stock 4.10 ratio axle and in 1st gear at 1200 RPM: W40 four speed First Gear: 3.287:1 - 12 MPH W42 four speed, 1980s . First Gear: 3.579:1 – 11.5 MPH W45 four speed, 1980s. First Gear: 3.566:1 – 11.5 MPH W50 five speed, 1976-1982. First Gear: 3.287:1 – 12 MPH W55 five speed, 1984-88. First Gear: 3.566:1 – 11.5 MPH W56 five speed, 1985-1995. First Gear: 3.954:1 – 11 MPH W59 five speed. First Gear: 3.954:1 – 11 MPH A 4.88 rear and W56 five-speed would give; 1st gear at 1200 RPM - 10 MPH 5th gear OD @ 65 MPH – 3300 RPM

Seems the easiest way to do it is to install a newer 5 speed with the lower 1st gear and higher 5th gear. You then have new advantages on both ends. Low 1st gear and lower RPMs in high gear IF you have a use for it. All depends on what trans you have now. If you have a trans with a 3.2 ratio first gear, there are other 4 speeds with a 3.5 ratio first gear. If you already have a 3.5 ratio in first, there are two five speeds used in Toyota trucks that have a 3.9 ratio first gear. A good transmission can usually be found for $300 or less and they can be shipped by UPS which makes things easy. I just bought one from 1200 miles away and it cost $75 to ship it to me. Seems swapping the trans is by far the easiest route. Changing the rear axle ratio is more work and more expensive and then you lose top end. W40 four speed First Gear: 3.287:1 W42 four speed, 1980s . First Gear: 3.579:1 W45 four speed, 1980s. First Gear: 3.566:1 W50 five speed, 1976-1982. First Gear: 3.287:1 W55 five speed, 1984-88. First Gear: 3.566:1 W56 five speed, 1985-1995. First Gear: 3.954:1 W59 five speed. First Gear: 3.954:1

I could tell you more if you traced out some of the wiring and drew a diagram of where you think things are going. Winnebago often used isolation relays to charge coach batteries. The pictures you posted seem to show an isolation relay on your firewall. In your photos, white wire "C" is the energizer wire. That should have 12 volts positive whenever the ignition key is "on." When energized, it connects the two big terminals A and B (with dark wires). When the igntion key is "off" one of those black wires should read 12 volts positive and one should read nothing. When the key is "on" both should read 12 volts positive. One will go to the coach battery and one will go to the alternator charging source (might be tapped from the cranking battery). This I assume is a 20 or 30 amp circuit breaker and one end is hooked to either A or B on that relay. Here is a generic isolation relay wire diagram that Dolphin and Winnebago use in many Toyotas. In regard to a TV and power usage. A 19" LCD TV only uses around 48 watts. A 19" LCD TV with a built in DVD player only uses around 65 watts. Even a small portable power pack like Duracell sells will run a 19" TV and DVD combo easily for three hours. A full size RV battery will do so MUCH longer. A typical 115 amp-hour RV batttery can run a 19" TV and DVD combo for 19 hours before it's stone dead. Can run the same for 9 hours safely (50% discharge). My point being that a TV is not a big power user. You could buy (as a back-up) a Duracell Power Pack 600 for $175 if you shop around. Only weighs 31 lbs. It has a built in battery, 600 watt AC inverter, 12 volt power supply, light, radio, jumper cables, USB charge port, etc. You could charge it at home on AC. Stick it in the back of your motorhome and watch a 3 hour movie with a standard AC 19" LCD TV and DVD plugge into it. Then when done, take the power pack up front and recharge off your cigarette lighter or 12 volt power port. This of course is not a fix, but IS a great alternative. If you get around to trying to check your isolation relay - keep in mind it is the "self grounding" type. That means the metal case gets the negative power from the battery by contact with the metal on the firewall - i.e. no ground wire. Some model relays are not "self grounding" and require a separate ground lead to operate. I mention that because even if the white wire is getting power - the relay still will not work unless it is making good contact with the metal it is bolted to.

I've looked a half-a-dozen Sunraders. I stay away from anything being sold as "pristine" or "perfect" with high price tags. No wrong or right here - just my preference. I'd rather buy low and if I get any unwelcome suprises - I'm not too much in a hole. Low price means I can afford to go all through it and update as needed. Last Sunrader I looked at was a 1986 and 600 miles from where I live full-time. Had 6 new tires - the six lug 7.25" circle wheels front and back and the full-floater rear. Most everything worked but had some cosmetic and water damage inside and out. Had 75,000 miles on it and ran very good. I could of bought it for $1800. I passed it up but now regret not buyng it. Here in my part of the northeast - Toyota motorhomes are not real common. The highest priced Sunrader I looked at was $3300. I'm working on buying one now for $800. Full floater rear, low miles, fuel injected, auto trans, but needs a lot of work. Mostly from sitting and from water damage. It's 180 miles from me. If it was closer I'd bought it already.

That would cost around $25 per month where I live or camp. Servel is a brand that is sold by Dometic. So many companies have changed hands it's not easy to track who makes or sells what. Dometic was bought out years ago by a huge gas drilling company - EQT. Same company that owns Bayer USA, Fedex Ground, Westinghouse, Glaxo-Smith-Kline USA, Duo-therm, etc. As I understand it - the old Dometic refrigerators were built under Electrolux of Sweden as the parent company. Those propane refrigerators were reported to be 30% less efficient then the new ones being sold today as Dometic Servels. I have no doubt that many people have good reasons for preferring propane. To the converse, I have many reasons NOT to prefer it. Propane is always much more expensive then gasoline, diesel, or kerosene in the north-east. Propane refrigerators work lousy on uneven ground. Propane refrigerators often have their flames blow out during high-speed travel. By law - in many states you must shut off the gas flame whenever at a gas station to refuel. If you use a propane refrigerator in electric mode - it is EXTREMELY inefficent. We used a kerosene refrigerator for years and also used a large propane unit for awhile. That was in a stationary setup - not a camper. Most of our RV use is stop-and-go. We only camp at night and maybe half a day somewhere and then drive on. All the camp-sites we use are rural and rarely have any level spots. So using a propane refrigerator is sometimes arduous. If a person in the northeast uses 20 or 30 lb. propane tanks - and gets them refilled - the actual price per gallon is often over $5. I buy propane in bulk 900 gallons at a time and the last fill was $3.75 per gallon. I'm using a cheap AC refrigerator with extra insulation and a 1500 watt inverter. Better yet would be a true 12 volt DC refrigerator but like anything for an RV - they are very expensive. I can find AC refrigerators ad nauseum for $20 each at yard sales and they are often near new. The newest 8 cubic foot Dometic/Servel: Uses ¼ gallon propane per day when temp is 77 F. Overall dimensions are 63-1/2" high, 23" wide, 26-1/2 " deep. Price new is $1400 The older "Electrolux" Dometics the same size were rated to use 1/3 gallon of propane per day at 77 F. New 8 cubic foot Dometic Servel –model 400 measures 63.5” tall by 23” wide by 26.5” deep. On propane it uses 1.1 lbs. a day at 77 F. In electric mode it uses 4000 watt-hours a day (350 amp hours at 12 volts DC). If run on kerosene or diesel fuel it uses a ¼ gallon per day at 77 F. Price is $1400 for the propane model and $2000 for the kerosene model. Around here if not buying propane in large quantiies - that would be around $33 per month using propane and $32 per month using kerosene. I could claim that my 5.8 cubic foot Sundanzer DC fridge costs nothing to run -but I DID have to buy the solar panels and battery bank. The panels will last me a lifetime but the batteries will need replacement every 7-10 years. But I guess everything costs money over time. I'd have the batteries and solar panels regardless of what refrigerator being used. They were not installed just for food cooling. If I lived somewhere out west where propane is much cheaper - and if I camped a lot on level ground and did not drive the RV a lot -I might feel a little different about propane cooling. When I was a kid, most people in my area - in their houses had refrigerators that ran on natural gas. Today natural gas is still the cheapest fuel - but not available to many people and I assume not available to any RVers. I cannot get it at any of my houses, much less for RVs. Sundanzer 5.8 cubic foot runs on AC/DC only. Has a compressor so does not need to be level. Uses 100 watt-hours (8.3 amp hours) per day at 70F. 37"W x 26"D x 35"H. Cost $1000 new. Will run 27 hours on one deep-cycle 225 AH battery but that is not good for the battery. For longevity the time should be half of that or the battery size doubled. Sundanzer 8 cubic foot runs on AC/DC only. Uses 140 watt hours (11.5 amp hours) per day at 70 F. New - $1200. Will run 19.5 hours on one deep-cycle 225 AH battery, but again that is not good for the battery. For longevity the time should be half of that or the battery size doubled. Novacool 12-24 volt DC compressor type smaller refrigerators for RVs. 4.3 cubic feet. R4500 cutout is 28.75 high x 20.25 wide and 22 inch outside depth. Uses 480 watt-hours per day at 70F. If 2” foam is installed around it, it uses 240 watt-hours (20 amp-hours) a day at 70F. New - $920. Will run 11 hours on one deep-cycle 225 AH battery (not a good for the battery though).

To each his own. Gas fridge (three way) certainly has power use - via propane gas or electricity. Propane fridge needs to be fairly level or barely works. Gas fridge is very inefficient when used in DC electric mode when it uses battery power to make heat . . to make cold. Gas fridge used in gas mode and travelling down the highway will sometimes go off due to a wind/suction at the chimney and a flame-out. Electric fridge that uses a compressor does not care how cockeyed the ground is when you park. Also uses less dollars in power via electricity. Yes you need to keep gasoline (or diesel) in the fuel tank so the engine can run so the alternator can make power - but seems if you want to be mobil you need fuel in that tank anyway. Also a gas fired refrigerator is less efficient then a compressor refrigerator. It uses more BTUs of energy to make the same cold temps. On top of that. propane in most parts of the country is much more expensive then gasoline or diesel Here in New York right now - $1 buys . . . 22,480 BTUs of energy with propane, 30,426 BTUs of energy with gasoline, and 30,588 BTUs of energy with diesel fuel. Like I said, to each his own. I love having a electric fridge and would never consider going back to propane in an RV. Same goes for my house in the Adirondacks woods. All solar electric, off grid. For years we had a 5 cubic foot propane fridge. Finally got rid of it and went to a Sundanzer 5 cubic foot 12 volt DC fridge. The difference is amazing. The DC fridge is MUCH cheaper to run. Actually, it costs us nothing to run since we have solar panels. Before I had the place all built and the permanent solar array installed, I ran that 5 cubic foot fridge on a single 120 wat solar panel and one 225 AH battery. Never got close to run down ever and we don't get much sun around here. Sundanzer 5.8 cubic foot 12 volt DC fridge. Uses 100 watt-hours on a 70 F degree day. 4.16 watts per hour, i.e. 1/3 amp avg per hour. Uses 240 watt-hours on a 90 F degree day. 8/10 of an amp per hour. Servel 6 cubic foot propane fridge at 77 degrees F uses 1.1 pounds of propane a day