Back East Don

I would agree. Getting shocks from the RV frame is not a safe condition to leave it in. I just wish you were having better success isolating it to one circuit. Rather than just lift the neutrals, perhaps disconnect all the hot leads and systematically connect one circuit at a time and test each AC circuit individually. Oh and a quick secondary thought, do a continuity test with the power unplugged and and all the breakers off of each hot and neutral to ground. When I replaced all the vents up top I inadvertently drove one of the screws into the DC feed to the lights on the sink side and had to run another feed over. Just wondering if you have a intermittent short of some kind caused by something like this.

While I ate my distraction, I gave this my divided attention as I considered what I am going to do about supper tonight. The two most likely candidates in my way of thinking would be either the fridge or AC. I was thinking more likely fridge and here is my logic. The AC is direct wired (although if you have easy enough access, it might not be a bad idea to check those connections). The fridge on the other hand is plugged into an AC outlet and not direct wired. Nagging at me though is it doesn't isolate with the breakers. Don't know if you tested the outlet for the fridge or if it is one of those crappy plastic pos that came in mine that I replaced. What else is left besides the power center's DC supply? No really, what's left that is plugged in?

I've got clubs and a motorhome already. First try the same test to the electrical cord you are plugging the RV into. You may have already done this I just don't remember. Should be zero between neutral and ground on the plug as well as the outside grounding pole. Do that and let me know while I mull this over. Need lunch actually.

This one is tempting as it has a year old roof AC for the asking price of $250 and they'll even deliver it (local only). http://worcester.craigslist.org/rvs/5703800689.html North Central MA about 20 minutes from me. Neighbors would hate me (I mean more). Don't have the room and it doesn't look like a restoration candidate to me. Where would I store the parts & how much time and effort.? How much could I make? On the 90 Itasca. Above I highlighted what I think is an appropriate evaluation in my case but things like this is what you should consider. Also how are you going to dispose of the bones?

Looks like you are measuring dirt there. Your RV electrical panel outside? What does this measurement read inside the panel in the RV measuring neutral to ground, hot to neutral and hot to ground? Those are the measurements that matter. If measuring the outside RV to earth, you need to take the measurement on something metal that is penetrating deeper into the soil than that probe in the dirt.

What is everyone waiting for? Oh..... Sounds like a good idea.

I love the Aeropress but it sees limited use camping. Just about every time I start boiling water for coffee the wife says make a cup for me. So I put the Aeropress back and pull out the pour over. For those who really like good coffee, look into one. They are relatively cheap. Super easy to use and cleanup is a breeze. Did I mention they make an excellent cup of coffee? Hope I don't tumble off this soapbox.

I have a set of crow foot wrenches in the tool box. They see very little action but when they do get pulled out it is because I've tried everything else. Usually a stubby wrench will work if I can get my hand in and that is the key. The stubby wrenches get used fairly often too. The crow foot only needs turning radius and will work with limited access. The down side is lack of breaking torque. For me, a once or twice a year tool.

Wish it were so but it ended up a bust as the seller sold it to someone he knew. Having the luxury of time, I've managed to find postings on craigslist an hour or so old. I would have gone that day to look at it but the seller couldn't get to where he had it stored till the end of the week. I confirmed yesterday at 4pm and the seller replied that he would meet me there and sent along a bunch of photos all pretty positive (interior a bit rough). Thought I was good to go, had reserved a transport trailer and withdrew some money from the bank. Then around 9:45 I get the call that he sold it. He was all apologetic and said he really hated to see the old girl go but a friend decided to buy it. Sometimes even when you are first in line, you can have the rug pulled out from under you. I have time but like a number of people who have searched for something worth buying, it is a frustrating market out there. I'll continue looking but summer will be ending soon and my business will need attending to this fall as I am only semi-retired. I lose the ability to drop everything and go starting in Sept. I've been kidding you a bit only because I think it is funny. I fully appreciate your enthusiasm and pride. Thank you for your kind thought.

I'm so with you there.

For the most part I like what I see with the outside. The front windows appear to be siliconed. No pictures of the berth. Isn't the front end always the challenge for me? The hood has some dings but cab looks pretty good. The rest of the exterior looks very good from what I see.

Update: It's a bust. He was storing it on a Farm and apparently someone who works there, bought it this evening. He was apologetic and at least he called. Even the wife was on board with this one after seeing the pictures. The search continues........

I ended up with a Palm non-stick pan that is smaller and more appropriate for cooking for the two of us on the go. I anticipated cooking more on the road but because we are only on 2-3 day excursions, I now meal prep in advance plus we'll dine out at least a couple meals. For instance the last trip I made a barbacoa style beef for tacos and homemade pico before the trip. I prepped everything in bags and containers and it was a super easy meal. I would need a decent size class A to be able to do trips longer than a week as I don't think we could make the transition if I didn't have a full kitchen. You have my respect because I know I could not live in ours. The micro roaster we go to has half bags or will re-bag any variety on request and we will sometimes pick one up for trips and have it ground for pour overs. I've had plenty of Keurig coffee as I spend a lot of time in different corporate offices. Just about anything is drinkable in a pinch but coffee is an entirely different experience at the fresh end of the specialty scale.

Cost per page is higher but we use the Canon iP110 printers in our service vans to be able to print. Works on 12 volts with the available cigarette lighter cord too. I had a lot of extra stuff that we eventually found really wasn't being used. Part of this was because I like to cook so I had far too much kitchen gear. I still miss the big cast iron frying pan but I lightened up considerably and regained a lot of extra storage space. Among what went was the microwave and TV as they just didn't get used. I also replaced the electric coffee grinder for a hand crank one that is much smaller and lighter. Thermal carafe was replaced too in favor of a small plain Melita pour over.

There you go again. Give it a rest already. From what I recall you are on the right track. Oh look, Derek beat me to it as I type. I've read it is a tight fit but you won't have to take the door off.

Meaning a factory installed interface. You'll either need a interface or you'll need to change from a 4 pin plug to 5, adding the brake wire. Right now you have ground, left, right and running lights. That is your 4 wire connections that combines turn and braking lamps

Just trying to make it as clear as possible for Jim as he at one point wasn't sure what point to suspect. He connected a new ground to the chassis and the problem seems to be gone. Will know better once he reports back and also perhaps he'll double check that everything is separate. Why I said usually but didn't go into depth as I didn't think the issue was his house panel because the ground tested good at the outlet in the RV. Also didn't want to confuse things further. Amazing what you learn building a couple of houses.

A quick thought. Does the Ford have an electronic trailer interface/controller for the plug? Note: I've got another meeting this afternoon and will be dutifully ignoring you. Be back later and I'll check in.

So you know it's not the lights. Got a test light? Use a stick to hold the brake pedal down and use the test light connected to the plug ground to see if the plug is getting brake light voltage.

Just to clarify in case Jim isn't reading this clearly. I know Jim was also looking at the work of his electrical panel which was recently replaced. In a sub panel the ground is isolated from the neutral but in a main panel, like in your house it is usually not. Treat the RV as a sub panel and keep the two separated with the AC ground bar bonded to the frame. The RV relies on the incoming cord ground for safety as the RV has no inherent ground as it is isolated by the tires. If you have the neutral connected to ground in the RV, it does indeed need to be isolated from ground for safety. Clear as mud right?

Are you looking for a general recommendation for RV service or is there something specific that you are wanting to have addressed? The Toyota part of the RV is standard automotive work and can be done by most repair shops. If one of the systems within the RV needs to be addressed, posting that might get you more helpful information. It's slow around here right now. Perhaps a more specific question will get this post more answers from the group. Welcome to the forum.

I totally get that. You'll get various suggestions and opinions on this forum but in the end, you are the guy doing the work, so pick what works best for you. People put a lot of themselves into these and that seems to be the appeal. They are old and relatively cheap. So they make a good palette to be creative which is enhanced when you get to spend time in them.

I know this post didn't get a whole lot of input. It was pretty short notice and the forum is pretty quiet this week. When you get the chance, let us know how you made out. Keep asking questions. We'll get around to answering them.

I ended up with the Monroe because there wasn't a listed KYB one and the OEM was a tad expensive. Has held up and works fine. The original stabilizer was more worn out than the shocks and it did make a a lot of difference.

Jim used the Roman's 935 primer but both of us should have used the Roman's 838 adhesive. I didn't do mine all at once so when I quickly realized on day two that the seams were an issue, I did go get some ready to use wallpaper adhesive. I still have a roll and a half left of the paper. I may revisit the berth area as this is where I started and was the most problematic.