Back East Don

I mainly use simple green up top. It was suggested by a good friend who had been around RV's for years and said he used it on everything including EPDM. I tried it and it did a great job and have been using it ever since. I ended up using liquid EPDM on my roof and wonder if that is the rubbery coating you have. I had a ton of pin holes and even though I went really thick and heavy up top, the larger holes just sucked the stuff in. So a thin coat might have not penetrated nearly deep enough to seal and you have a through hole that water is getting into. If you have not been introduced, allow me. Dicor lap sealant is sort of the standard for sealing roofs. For up top use self leveling. Check out this video for a quick primer on how to use it. And this one You should be able to find it at an RV place but if not, Amazon has it. Wish I got a check from these guys.

I think the best way to understand this is to know how MAP works (minimum advertised pricing). A reseller has to tow the line as to not devalue the brand but the laws are well established that the manufacturers cannot dictate sell price. So for many brands, you will not find it advertised for less than the manufacturer allows. Doesn't mean you can't buy it for less and certainly doesn't mean you bought it off the back of a truck. The more you know, the less you pay.

Ditto

I carry my supercomputer in my pocket.

Brynn&Cas Please note: This is how you poke the bear. Doesn't take much.

So, NASA got your resume yet?

You guys really take this generator crap way too seriously. Me, I bought a Yamaha for the house as we get lots of storms here and I got a hell of a good deal for the EF5500D from a motorcycle place that decided to carry them but in a year, never sold one. I know people who have all sorts of brands and I don't take it as an affront to my sensibilities. Thing is, why should you care how I spent my money or why I should care how you spend yours? I only care about how I spend my money. Same for what brand. Give the information and let it go guys.

By now you must be so glad you asked. It's been slow and these guys haven't talked to each other in a while. So they are catching up. Besides the E brake cable, there is only a small amount of things that are likely to be causing your brake problems. One was already pointed out. Gear Oil or brake fluid. So question time. How deeply into this have you looked? Is this an everyday driver for you? Do you have a place to work on it? Perhaps a good pair of jack stands? If the answer to these 3 questions are no, yes & yes, jack it up and take one side apart and have a look. If you at least open it up, the obvious will be revealed. It is probably not a bad idea to just do them over entirely so really the questions really are how do I take it apart and what parts do I order as that seems to be more of a mystery than actually fixing them. Once you get the drums off which is the mysterious part, the rest are like any other drum brake. Start looking through the full floater axle threads to find all the seals if you do find oil contamination. If the brake cylinder is leaking then you need to look those up. So for parts. It might not be obvious but this forum is littered with brake posts with the same debate and the same part listings. If you have to purchase local, I suggest you take a look at all the jdemaris posts and part numbers and write them down along with the manufacturers and bring them to the parts store as they will likely be able to cross ref them and if they can't perhaps you are at the wrong parts store. I am fortunate in that I have an abundance of options for parts places and the competition is fierce so they will go out of there way to figure it out. They are not just competing with other locals but there is also online. I have had good luck with Amazon and Rock Auto. I will price them both out along with the local places and decide my best option. The rock auto web site is a great tool even if for just doing your own cross referencing. Hope it all works out.

Brynn&Cas Now you see why I don't participate in these discussions. That and I don't carry a generator or have an AC. I live up north and camp by the cool ocean so my opinion really doesn't apply. Best of luck to you but you have at least saved yourself from buying an undersized genny. That we pretty much all agree on. Pretty much not much else from there. Hey, welcome to the forum. One big happy dysfunctional family.

My job is done here. Consider this thread completely derailed. (You can thank me later.) This one seems like it would do without the hydraulics but might be smallish for the Cherokee. Then there is the hydraulics vs winch system debate. Nothing is imminent so no point in placing an order today.

No problem. I've been staying out of these discussions as I tire of getting hit in the head.

I'm only here to help

Surprised you made this rookie mistake. You might as well call the the Gulfstream Greg's diesel thread now. Though seriously, the reasons for selling seems shared by many. On one hand we love the compact nature of our Toyota but on the other, it is just too little headroom, too cramped and a little too intimate for more than a few days. We have been thinking about shopping for a suitable class A to be able to spend a couple months at a time in and using the Toyota for quick beach trips. In the end, I think it will only hasten a permanent move beyond this size RV for us. The breaking point for us will be the ability to tow something behind. There was a picture posted sometime back with a motorhome pulling a hi/low trailer that had both a Porsche Boxster and a boat. As absurd as some found it, exchange the convertible for my Jeep Cherokee and a solid hull boat and that is my retirement ideal. Camping, bay fishing, riding the dunes and surfcasting all in one portable package. I should frame that picture and hang it in my office. Reminds me, I need to research that kind of trailer. Good luck with the sale. Sorry, I'm not in the market.

Thanks Wade. The basic parts I ran down have been ordered. I have a couple of weeks before the next trip and tracking says everything is to arrive tomorrow. Some time back there was a rather contentious thread about oil filters. The outcome on that for me was I recorded the OEM part number and added it permanently to my Amazon parts wish list. As with all things Amazon the price fluctuates but it was available this time as an add on item to my prime order for $7.65 and all I had to do to order it was to click. That thread had pretty mixed opinions. Almost hate to even mention it in fear of stirring the pot but it really was worth the read. I priced out parts between Rock and Amazon and ordered most of the OEM stuff from Amazon and most the rest from Rock with a little this and that mixed in. I plan on draining and tearing it down and will decide what else to replace once I've had a deeper look.

They just grow up so fast don't they. Other than the fact there is a house attached to the back, working on these for the most part is basic mechanical work.

I poked around for about an hour but just can't find the post I was thinking of. It was a pictorial disassembly starting at the hub plate. Was so complete, I thought to myself, hey, I could even do that. Problem is, I haven't and even attempt to describe it from memory, I'll foul you all up. It's on my list perhaps next season to do the brakes and all the preventive stuff on the rear so I'll need to find that post eventually. I got rush off but it has been dead here lately. Summer, go figure. Hang in there and someone will likely post something useful cause I ain't no help on this.

Probably the best pictorial break downs of this kind of stuff are from jdemaris. You might start at the pinned axle facts thread in suspensions and if I get a chance I'll search for a good thread if someone doesn't link it before me.

I know what you mean about memory. I'm trying to remember if it is molecular weight that is the determinate of penetration or not. Trichloroethylene is 131.4 g/mol vs acetone at 58.08. So that's how my Saturday morning is going. How's yours?

The only appeal with this would be the squirt bottle vs the spray can which is all that is available at the local hardware store. Spray can always has the tube missing and gets more around the target than on it. I do like the built in tube on the new WD40 cans in that regard.

The theory is the rotation of the wheel vs the lug nut so as not to have momentum loosen them. Or at least how I recall it being explained. If I'm wrong guys, go easy as I'm a bit gun shy after getting my butt handed to me on a fishing forum. Those guys are a tough crowd. Also, have you verified the valve stems? The only thing I don't know is if those rims you have are different. Ask Linda as she has the same 6 hand hold rims on one of hers.

Interesting. I may have to try this but will likely go with a squirt bottle as I've had awful luck with spray bottles.

I think I've figured out why you keep breaking things.

For posterity. 1987 Itasca cooling system parts. It was a Gates kind of day along with a couple of Aisin parts. Aisin WPT007 Water pump Aisin FCT003 Fan clutch Gates 21398 Upper radiator, 20801 Lower radiator. 18792, 18789 & 18843 Heater hoses. Also listed were a couple auxiliary heater hoses that don't seem to apply. There was also a 18400 that was $5 so I added it in case it is the infamous under the Alternator hose that I can't find. Also have an issue with the heater motor speed control. Ordered a control resistor motor. AC is no longer functional so no belt there but ordered Gates 7345 & 9440 Alternator and power steering belts. I ordered the oem radiator cap (16401-63010) and thermostat (90916-03078) and a couple of Beck Arnley thermostat gasket. Also while I under the hood might as well change the oil so ordered a OEM 90915-YZZD1 Oil Filter For some reason Amazon says it doesn't fit though I've ordered it before. No Red Antifreeze. Did see a listing for a Sunrader in ME for the low price of $18000. For that kind of money it should come with the Red stuff already done.

I looked for said little bugger but the only hose there is the lower.

latex or oil based paint? Latex will have a lingering smell for only a few days but oil will linger a bit longer. If latex and you are sensitive to solvents ask the paint store if it is low VOC (volatile organic compound) latex paint. If it is low VOC you should only at worse have that ammonia like smell that latex does often. Air it out for a few days while it dries and it should be Ok. When we originally built our house I chose all latex including the wood floor coatings. When it came time to refinish 15 years later my wife insisted we use oil base because someone told her it was better. I never win at these kinds of things so oil it was. Every day when I came home I smelled the oil finish for two months. Didn't bother my wife but I've got the sensitive nose. In my motorhome when I rebuilt the berth, I used epoxy waterproof paint and that lingered for a couple months.