hawk

I've really enjoyed this thread and its implications. I also live in a very rural area, 200 miles from any city of size. I relish the quiet and live on a dead end road where if I hear a single car, I wonder "who the hell is on my road!" it is a county road, but I love the quiet. So, in travelling, I try to find forest service roads, fire roads, logging roads, and if I have to go through a real city, I try to get the hell out there as soon as I can. Last year I was headed to Canada on my motorcycle, and as it got dark I needed a place to camp for the night. I was on the coast of Northern California, and could find nothing, and in the dark I pulled into a KOA campground. $40 bucks for motorcycle and small tent. Not my cup of tea. I was crowded up against a poor young couple with an infant with cholic. They had my sympathies, but I surely got no sleep. Oh, an abandoned road for me. What occurs to me is that many of us seek quieter pastures, maybe similar to our rural home, and others, coming from crazy cities seek some quiet as a contrast to the insanities of city living. Ok, cities can be of some fun, but they're not really habitable in my opinion. So, in my Toy/Winnie, I head to Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Eastern California, Nevada, Montana, Canada. And before long the world will be rid of us old farts, men and women who are travelers and campers, seeking solitudes and just enough company to be civil with. May you find yours.

My son bought a smaller, but beefy rack from Harbor Freight that very securely hauls a 600 pound dirt bike on the back of his Honda Pilot. The rack was about $75. It's simple, clean and very sturdy. I've been thinking that it would fit really well on my Toy/Winnie. Currently I have a Suzuke Burgman that weighs in at 650 pounds, but I think it's too bulky to store on the back. I'd go for a 50cc-125cc simple, light weight scooter/bike with a big boot.

I do live in the mountains and I drive a lot at higher elevations. I've driven Toyota trucks all my life. I've had 4's and I've had 6's. Both are fine engines, but make no mistake, the six is a much more powerful engine and it hauls the coach up hills faster than the fours. The gas mileage is not much worse. I currently have an Toy/Winnie automatic six that I bought a year ago, driving it from central Oregon to the eastern slopes of the California Sierra Nevada. On I-5 at 55-65 I averaged 15.5 mpg. Coming through the mountains from the central valley, climbing to 9,500 ft. I got 13-14.5 mpg. On some of the steeper roads, the four cylinder engines will be lucky to do 25-35 mph. The six can do another 10-15 mph. Just my experiences.

A couple of thoughts about both the heater issues here and the solar. I live in a very dry and in the winter, cold climate. In my 50's, I lost my house and lived in a camper on the back of my Toyota truck for three years. I found that one of the small Coleman propane heaters worked very adequately in keeping me warm until I climbed into my down bag. I had a carbon monoxide alert that never once went off. Most vehicles have a fair amount of air leaks that purge the toxic gases. I cooked, using propane on the four burner stove in the camper. It's quite similar to my current Toy/Winnie. On the solar panel issue; around here, in the high desert where a lot of folks, young and old are living on the land in various kinds of vehicles, mostly I see solar panels on the ground, feeding into whatever vehicle there is. One old converted midsized school bus has several two feet by three feet panels on the ground, running a number of appliances, including a quite sophisticated computer/ music/tv system. I'm not tech savvy enough to know what the fellow did, but it sure works slick. When he moves, he just places them inside and drives away.

Hi, Folks, thanks very much for all the helpful replies. I had checked the exterior carefully, but will do it again-just in case I was blind the last time. And the same for under the couch. Part of my problem may have been that I thought I knew what a drain plug should look like. I've gotten into trouble with assumptions before.... On the next warm day, after I've driven it home from Sacramento where I stored it for the winter. Here in the Eastern Sierra, my house pipes froze this winter, flooding my house. Sigh, such fun.

I have a Toy/Winnie 21' 1991 and for the life of me, I can't find a drain valve for emptying the storage water tank. I live where freezing is common several months of the year, so can't leave the water in. Does anyone know where the valve might be? Or if there isn't one, which would really be a dumb design, what's the best way to empty the tank and lines? Run the pump until dry?? Thanks.

Indeed, welcome Mountainman. Last year I, too, bought a Toy/Winnie, a '90/91 because it was a Toyota. All my trucks and most of my cars have been Toys for reasons of reliability. Bulletproof. I had to replace the truck's AC with a 134A compliant unit after I found that the original didn't work. It just blew air and since it was a cool evening in Oregon when I bought it, I took the seller's word that it did work. But, I bought all new parts online and had a local AC shop install it. Total cost was $675. Good luck. Hawk.

Hi, I appreciated this discussion. Currently I have a working AC on top of my '90 Toy/Winnie but found recently that it leaks like a sieve. ( I bought it last April in dry weather in Oregon. The seller in Talent, OR lied about many things it turned out.) I recently caulked around the base with some high-tech caulking and hope it works. If not, I'll probably take Linda's suggestion about the fan installation.

MontereyDave, thanks very much for going to the trouble of the pictures. They really help. Mine is a bit different, but I think I can generalize from your pictures and find the parts that do slide one way or another. This forum and its members are a god-send for the newly challenged of us.

DanAatthe cape. Thanks for the input. I'm stymied, too. Since I live in a rural area with no real RV services available, I'm really stuck with the internet to solve problems. After a couple of trips in the Toy, I'm thinking this isn't the vehicle for me, but I don't want to put it up for sale without fixing things like the broken blinds. Your suggestion of taking the valence off may be the only way to go at this point. Anyway, thanks for your experience .Hawk.

Does anyone know how to take the blinds out from under the valence. I can't see any obvious pins or latches that will release the blind. I went to Aggie's posted pdf. file and couldn't see what needed to be released. By the way, thanks for that link.

Waiter, I donated when I joined, but appreciate the reminder. I don't mind "rejoining' considering all the help I've been offered. My PayPal account was compromised last year, and I won't use it again. Mind sending me physical mail address so I can send a check this time? Thanks. Hawk

Jamaiah, I have a '90 with a somewhat similar problem. My left side turn signals quit working. Right side worked. Here's a bit of what I've learned and it may help you diagnose what you're up against. First, I checked the bulbs, because a turn signal that blinks quicker than normal indicates a burnt out bulb either front or rear. I found not burnt out bulbs. So, I tried taking out the flasher relay under the dash, having been told by a mechanic that that was the problem. I bought a new flasher/relay from an auto parts place that said that it would be a suitable replacement for the Toyota flasher. Here's where the parts get weird. The original Toyota flasher was constructed in such a way that one prong was switched to an opposite side by using a connection that went from one side to the other. Really strange design. The auto parts guy, who seemed electrically savvy, said that the replacement took this switched polarity into account. However, the replacement does not work. If this makes little sense to you, likewise with me. However, a friend who teaches auto shop at the local high school said to first see if your emergency flashers worked. If they do, it's not a flasher/relay problem. It could be another switch. And the only way to really find it it to follow each circuit and test each part. It's painstaking and therefore expensive if you have to have it done for you. The suggestion to spray the contact points and switches with electrode cleaner does sometimes work. It's always worth a try.

Those 30 amp circuit breakers are also available from Napa Auto parts for $4.65 a piece. I went through the same process of replacement.

Boots, that sounds like a big project, but one that I also need to consider. Since I'm new to this rig, and a bit of a novice in the electrics area, I have to approach it methodically, thinking through each step. In the end- because I think I will keep this rig- it will pay me big time to make the various changes. Thanks for your description of your project. keep us all informed of your progress. Hawk.

Thanks, Guys, for the suggestions. It turned out to be one of the in-line 30 amp circuit breakers that had fried. I replaced both and it seems to be working fine. I also replaced some of the lightweight cords that were used for wiring patches. John, I think you're correct that I have a converter, not an inverter. I appreciated your help. Take care. Hawk

Hello, folks, I'm new to the site, having just recently buying a '90 Toy/Winnebago with 74K on it. The coach battery was shot, so I installed a new one. I ran in to the wiring mess that others have described on this site. There were eight wires with crimped, ring terminals all clamped onto the positive old battery post. It was a mix of lamp cords, wire nuts and one splice just twisted together and taped. I'm not much of an electrician; I can use a multimeter. I took the eight wires and brought them all together by clamping them with a bolt and nut; then I ran a single lead to the positive battery post. Everything worked for a short time. But, after a bit of usage, no inside lights, no water pump and the control panel in the galley has no power. The battery shows a full charge. None of the five 15 amp fuses in the coach is blown, and the two circuit breakers weren't tripped. I have power from the battery to the clump of eight incoming wires. There is an inline fuse on what I figure is the main wire, and it is not blown as far as I can tell. So, that's the background. I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone can help me with. First, where the heck is the inverter on a '90 Toy/ Winne? Does the power wire from the coach battery go to the inverter and then to the fuse/circuit breaker panel, or does it go directly to the fuse panel? Is there any other fuse or breaker somewhere else in the power circuit that I'm missing? I'd appreciate any thoughts you guys and gals might suggest. Thanks, Hawk

Derrel's invite to the Kenetic Race sounded interesting. Unfortunately, I can't make that weekend, or I'd go. I'm itching for a maiden trip in my "new" '90 Winne. But it got me to wondering if he or others are planning any encampments for the summer or fall of this year somewhere in the northern part of the state or even southern Oregon? I'm on the East Side of the Sierra, near Mammoth Lakes. My travel is very weather dependent. If it snows, all the passes in the middle of the state close for the winter; although, I can get over the crest by going way north or way south. Hawk.

I'm a Newbie, too, just having bought a '90 ToyBago at 20 feet. I also had never driven a motorhome of any size before. I picked mine up in Oregon- I live in the Eastern Sierra Nevada of Calif. I used the mirrors A LOT coming down I-5 and on city streets. In stress situations, I found that I had to be clear about which mirror I was glancing at, the convex one or the flat. From another forum, I learned that many people prefer the 6 cylinder for the added power, and I find that important, too. I have an automatic and that's new to me, but it seems to work well. In mountains, a 4 would be really stressed, and so would I. It's bad enough with the six. Patience is learned. I also found that I had to recalibrate my sense of where in the lane I'm in, how far to the right. I use the right mirrors to gauge my side in relationship to the right hand white line. Someone's comment about knowing the height of your vehicle was important for me, too. Since you're in the market for one, I'll recount my purchase experience, since I found mine on Craig's List, and it seems fraught with scams and such. I found mine in Southern Or and called the guy. Easy talker, and yes, it was in excellent shape, no water leaks or stains, clean, never smoked in, no pets, etc. He seemed straight, so I agreed that I would buy it at an agreed upon price. It was late in the evening when I got there. It was stored in a storage lot, and hard to get to see well. I had a flashlight and checked the motor for leaks, rust, etc. At this point, I only knew his first name and cell phone number. He said that he lived in a nearby apartment and couldn't keep the rig there. We drove in around and it seemed solid mechanically. It had 74K. I agreed to buy it, gave him the money and he provided the pink slip and keys. Here's where it got weird. The pick slip was from Idaho, with another owner's signature, release title. And the title listed "water damage", which the current owner had not disclosed. I couldn't see any signs of it, and the current owner offered some explanations, that included that the rig had run into a ditch with the previous owner, and that it hadn't been registered in Or because of the costs. I guess I don't think too fast on my feet and am a bit gullible, too. I drove it home, and began to worry about all the oddities of the deal. The next day,I also noticed that the back ladder was gone, and there was a crack in the windshield. In the end, I was able to re-register it in Calif. It passed the smog checks ok. But, in rethinking it, I found that several other people whose rigs I'd looked at weren't really very forth coming about the real conditions of their vehicles. You have to really look carefully, maybe even taking a mechanic friend to look them over, or take it into a shop for an evaluation. A last comment regarding the year and engine one chooses; I later learned that my '90 v6 had head gasket problems. Someone said that the 22L is a bullet proof engine, and I've learned that it is. The v6 has more power and gets a little worse gas mileage. In the mountains and highways, I have gotten 12.5 to 15, which seems about the norm. Good luck with your venture.

I know this is a year old discussion, but just having bought a new(for me) '90 Warrior, I found the exchange helpful. Here in California, I had to smog the thing, and the gas cap was one that fit, but didn't hold pressure. So, I just bought a new one from the smog shop. It's a common issue, the tech said. I can relate to Becca's tentativeness about driving the beast. I lack depth perception, having only one good eye, and it's unnerving to pilot the rig around in tight quarters. I find myself parking out in the "north 40" to compensate.Eastern Sierra Nevada, snowed last night- April 13! Temps in the teens at night and in the 30's daytime. Oh, for spring!

Well, first are my thanks for your efforts toward our country and the rest of us. I live in the Eastern Sierra, where camping is usually free if you're willing to take some risks with ranch or logging roads. Where National Forest land exists, people live for months without fees. On various trips Eastward, I realize that everything is private land; trespass and get shot, or some such warning. I've lived recently for several years off the grid, in a Toyota pickup with a small camper, and been just fine. Someone responded that with your medical issues, staying within reach of a Vets' hospital might be a good call. I have a friend, an ex-army guy, who plans virtually every excursion around bases, where he can refuel, eat and stay for cheap. A good call. On the other hand, the farther you are from competent mechanical help means that you have to become a mechanic yourself. In this regard, out here where a 1000 miles is nothing, a well maintained vehicle is critical to getting along. I'd get really familiar with my engine, my plumbing, my electrics before I hit the road. Wishing you well on your "adjustments."

I have some extended experience in both hot and cold weather with a camper on the back of my Toyota 4x4. About five years ago, during a divorce and no surplus funds for a rental, I lived in a camper. In the two winters, temps got down to 0 degrees F. I found that the camper had little in the way in insulation, but with a small propane lantern to read by, the evening went just fine. T-shirt inside. Of course, when shutting it off, with little in the way of insulation, things turned north. Water would be frozen by morning. I considered a small wood stove, but here's the hazard, carbon monoxide buildup, especially if you've done a decent job of caulking and sealing. Not a wise choice. I live, and have lived all my life with wood heat. It's a viable option only so long as you have outside air coming in and going out. Otherwise, you face asphisiation. So, for me, my cook stove added heat, my propane lantern for evening and reading provided very adequate heat, and I took to bed a liter of water to brush my teeth in the morning and make a cup of coffee. Good luck on your minimalist adventure.