fred heath
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Posts posted by fred heath
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just installed 6 new Hankook size 195-14. Not sure what pressure I should be using. Sears set everything at 50 psi. My Galavan is small (18'), no water tanks or bathroom. Total vehicle weight is 4000 lbs. It seems to ride ok.
Derek, you're the answer man. Give me your best guess.
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75-140 will work fine. I just changed the rear lube in my 1979 Galavan to 75-140. The new syn lubes are all multi viscosity. Jeep recommends this weight in their grand cherokee ltd.s. I've used this in my jeep for years. No problems. Transmission should be 75-90.(unable to find straight 90 w). Heard there were problems with shifting if you exceed 90w. Hope this helps.
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I own a 1978 Galavan. The shell is fiberglass andthe ribs are all steel. I'm not sure but I suspect any of the fibergass Toys may have steel frames also. Derek and Mainah will know for sure. I'm gutting mine out completely. Makes finding those leaks pretty easy. I'm partial to fiberglass because it doesn't rust or rot. Good Luck.
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made me laugh.
Master Card.
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I too am a disabled vet. Based on your $ amount I suspect your pension is through the VA. All federal parks and recreational facilities will waive any entrance fees for disabled vets. Most states will also do this. You will need a copy of your disability rating along with your retired military ID or VA hospital identity card. This does not mean you'll be able to overnite necessarily, but will allow you to see many desirable national sites.
My MH has no toilet facilities. (small 18'). I plan to take out a Planet Fitness membership which will allow you to use an Planet Fitness site. They seem to be all over the country. The nice thing is most are open 24 hrs and have shower and toilet facilities. The 24 hour ones you could probably park your rig overnite without complaint.
When my renovations are completed, I plan to take a year and just travel. Good Luck. (you picked the best site to join) fred
One other thought. You may want to join an organization like the American Legion or VFW. There are chapters in most all cities and towns. These people are all vets and will help you in any way they can. They've been there and are good listeners. An added bonus is they may be able to steer you to local area's where you can park and rest.
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The bed over the cab is the worse area, My neighbor has suggested simply repairing the source of the leak, fixing it, and covering the damage rather than a renovation. I didnt like the idea but after he explained the process of trying to rebuild I am nearly agreeing with him. I dont think I have the skill nor money required for a renovation unfortunately.
Any thoughts?
I am 21, im just happy to have the thing despite some of the downsides. I think a received a pretty good deal so im not too worried about the few areas of repair.
Just found the same problem in my 1978 Galavan. Ended up gutting the front portion of the cab. As a builder, I can assure you if you leave any of the wet plywood or framing in place it will become moldy. I found the source of my water was not the front cab window but the seam where the home body meets the cab. A small gap is just enough to allow water to get inside.
A trick I've always used is to remove the old sections intact. You can then use them as a template to fabricate the new sections. And take plenty of pictures in the event you forget how everything goes back together. If your mechanically inclined, go slow and you should be ok. good luck! fred
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Welcome to the best site online for old toyota's.
I have a 1978 Galavan with the 20R engine and 4 speed. I've owned it about 6 months and it came with 95K origional miles. (have all the paperwork from day 1).
Time sitting takes its toll on seals and hoses. The first thing I would look at changing is the crankshaft oil seal. These seem to wear out at 80-90K. You will know when this happens as the motor will start gushing oil from behind the crankshaft pully. It's not an expensive part (about $15.00) at autozone, but you will need a "chain wrench" to hold the pully when you remove the crank bolt. If you decide to do this let me know and I'll walk you through it. (just did mine). Get the Haynes manual for the Hilux. About $20.00 online. I like Haynes because they give you a wiring diagram in the back of the book. Chiltons is also good but no diagram.
I've had real good advice from members here. You picked the best site to go to. Good Luck fred
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If you have access to a TIG or MIG welder you could "tack" a nut (slightly larger than the existing bolt diameter) to the bolt. then remove it with a socket and rachet.
You would tack to the inside of the nut (threaded area).
Be very careful as the cylinder head is aluminum. Many times the heat from the welder helps to loosen the bolt.
I've used this trick before with good results. Good Luck.
Alternative #2, if you don't have a welder or if the bolt is snapped off below the casting, you could use a rotary cut off tool or hacksaw, and saw through the thermostat cover as close as possible to the inside of the broken bolt(between the thermostat and the bolt). Be careful not to saw into the head. Remove the cover and the thermostat. Plug the hole with a rag. Using a small drift, center it on the casting next to the broken bolt. Tap lightly with a hammer. The remainder of the casting should break away and fall off. Hopefully now you will have enough of the stud showing to get in with a pair of vise grips and remove it.
For future reference, when trying to remove old or rusted bolts. Soak them well with something like WD40. As you go to remove them use a forward and back motion until your sure the bolt (or nut) can be easily removed. (Tighten/untighten...tighten/untighten etc.)
If all else fails, contact "Mainah". He will probably have another solution. fred
P.S. You should make sure you have a replacement cover as you old one will be junk.
Final thought. (running slow this morning) If you have one bolt out, before alternative #2, try putting a hammer handle or wooden closet pole section into the neck opening. Leaver it back and forth gently and you may get lucky and it will release and slide up and over the broken bolt. DO NOT try to pry it off by sliding something between the cover and the head. This could be very expensive. OK now it's coffee time.
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Just changed the oil in my 78 Galavan. If you have the 20R engine the correct filter is a fram 3614. Good Luck.
Hi All,
Any of you out there have a 78 Toyota Chinook? And, if so, have you had problems finding the right oil filter for it?
I was trying to change the oil today on my camper, and, of course, the oil filter was stuck. Eventually, I got it off, and the oil filter that they gave me at the store didn't match up (it was half the size of the one I took off the camper). So I brought both of them back down to the store, and I read off the code on the original oil filter to the guy, he brought me out one that looked to be the correct size (a Frame). And, I put that on. Well, you can guess what happened next.....
Valdez oil spill down the driveway. Luckily there weren't any pelicans or dolphins around.
Anyways, I decided it might be a good idea to check in the owners manual. (Probably should have done that from the get-go. No kidding!)
So, I did, and it said to use "Nippondenso 15601-44010".
Of course, they didn't have that at the store. They said they could special order it, and it would take 5 days. They showed me a picture of it on their computer and it was a large filter, just like the one I'd gotten off the camper originally.
But, they said that their computers were matching up to an ACdelco PF13 5579164 oil filter. But this oil filter was half the size of the original oil filter.
Anyways, has anyone else had this problem? If so, do you usually have to special order your oil filters?
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Welcome to the world of old Yota's. I own a 1979 Galavan which I purchased 6 months ago. I like the older homes as they're easier to work on than the newer models. (no computer etc.)
Be prepared to do some work on it because even with low mileage, time sitting will take it's toll. your vaccuum leak could be as simple as rotten hoses or as complex as a bad intake manifold gasket or worse cracked manifold.
If your mechanically inclined, get a good DIY book such as chilton's or haynes. The people on this forum have been very helpful. Derek up north and Mainah really know their stuff. Listen to them, they've been right on the money every time I post a question. John Mc-Q is also well informed..
Good Luck. Fred
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Thanks to all who responded. The generator was running fine when I bought the toy. I removed it and bench cleaned everything. I finally figured out what happened ( I think.)
The govener is contro;;ed by an air valve. Apparently while the unit was resting on my garage floor a rodent decided to build a nest inside. I found this by accident while running the unit to determine what was causing the problem. Suddenly all this tissue like substance was blowing around inside the housing. I removed the housing and used compressed air around the inside. Suddenly it looked like a New England snow storm. The generator still fluctuates slightly when running, but 80% better than it was. I think there may be some residual nest or body (ugh!) inside. Will continue with the air treatment and keep you posted.
Vanman, this could be your problem as well. Worth a look. Thanks again to all that responded. fred
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I agree with vanman. My rides 10 years older than yours. I have no vin on the dash. I finally found the vin applied by the mfg. behind the drivers side lap belt. You have to move the belt aside to find the plate. It is attached to the coach not thr truck body. Hope this helps. fred
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Finally got the generator up and running. Having never owned this model, I'm not sure if this is normal behavior or not.
The engine surges at idle. There is no load applied and I have the 120 volt breaker shut off at the generator. When I power up the mh the a/c and outlets work fine. It appeared that even with a load on, the idle speed of the generator never increased, and the throbing remains constant. Any suggestions or help greatly appreciated. fred
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Not sure if this helps but trailer tires come in the 185 size, and are usually 6 ply. The only problem I see is from a traction standard. It could be the owner has found some 8 ply trailer tires. In theory they should work. (unless you live in the north.)
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Thanks Derek. Your batting 1000. Fred
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I have the 2.8 onan added at a later date. The owner teed off the fuel line from the tank pump. This seems stupid to me.
I found a garage with a great mechanic and metal fabricator. The solution? He cut a piece of the large fuel hose off between the filler neck and the tank. Spliced in a section of exhaust pipe with a 5/16 fuel line extending into the tank. The line sits above the pump screen so there's no danger of the generator sucking the tank dry. Total cost under $100.00. The best part is the tank didn't have to be removed, and no extra holes were added.
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Had 100% good luck with this forum. Thanks to everyone.
I'm going to be swapping out my old 5 lug welded duels for an 8 lug GM truck axle. The only information I can find online says the ratio is 4:11. (factory?) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Fred
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I've had really good luck with advice from this forum. I have a 1978 toyota galavan with the 20R engine and 4 speed trans. There's a lot of "slop" in the shift handle. I suspect it's bushings, but have been unable to find any online supply houses that carry them for a unit this old. I plan on replacing the clutch and rear main oil seal in the near future. Would be nice to do this at that time. Thank you in advance. Fred
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Thank You Maineah.
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I have a 1989 Onan generator. The Model # is 2.8KV F/A 26100A ser# C890215764.
Does anyone happen to know the factory recommended spark plug gap? I've tried several rv dealers and no one seems to have the answer. I contacted an Onan recommended repair site. They would only give me the information after looking at my generator set. Any help greatly appreciated. Thank You.
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I tend to agree with Derek and Linda with one caveat!
Get the vehicle weighed, that way you'll know exactly where your at. put your normal stuff in it before being weighing
Places that sell gravel / dirt have scales, You don't need an official "weight certificate", your just curious as to its weight . Make sure you tell them that as the "Certificate" may be higher price. Truck scales may also do it, but they could be pricy. (I'm thinking $5 - $10)
If your near Toledo Ohio, call me, I have a scale where I work at, I just need to be in the office when you drive over it. :-)
Again, You may not have an issue, but rear wheel bearings, lube and inspection will be high priority. The small campers are probably operating a little over their gross weight (you should be able to get your VIN and check it), but I think these are 1/2 ton chassis??????????, That means you can carry 1000 lbs load in the truck, Gross weight might be in the 4500 lb range????????
John Mc
88 Dolphin 4 Auto
Thank you.
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Very small and light weight. Unless you plan on loading up with a lot of stuff., I wouldn't worry about it at all. Just because of the age though wouldn't hurt to have bearings and axles inspected before a long trip.
LS
Thank you.
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The only fix is the proper 1ton axle
Band aids are
1. Use more air pressure on inside dual
2. Weigh your toy if the rear axle weight is right you can run stock rims with single tires
3. In anyevent replace rear bearings an maybe axles
Check ebay for axles
Thank you.
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I recently purchased a 1979 Toyota "Galavan" motor home. After having read the forum on rear axle problems, I'm a little concerned. The home has 95K origional miles. There is no shower or toilet facilities inside. There is a single bowl ss sink, and a hose hook up outside (factory installed).
The rear axle is 5 lug with duel rear wheels. The wheels appear to be welded together. This is a very small unit, but does have gas burners, ref, and full size flip out bed.
I plan to remove most of the appliances as I don't feel Ill really use them.
The seller, who's the second owner for the past 10 years stated he had to problems with the axles.
Should I be concerned. I would like to take it cross country in the near future. Thank You.
Found a 1-Ton Toyota dual rear axle
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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while parts shopping at a local salvage yard, I found a 1992 toyota box truck with due tirel rearend. Front 6 lug wheels and componets are all there. Didn't think to check the mileage.
Yard is Epping Auto Salvage in Epping, NH. owner is named "Tad". He said he would want $500.00 for it. Not sure if that's a good deal or not. Any interest you could give him a call. (engine and transmission are gone).