fred heath
-
Posts
2,045 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by fred heath
-
-
LC engineering has a good data base on the 22R and 22RE Interchangeable parts.
Attached is a guide to help your mechanic with valve identification.
-
You might also post the VIN on eBay. For the amount of money you’re asking people will want to do a vehicle history check.
-
11 hours ago, Toycollector47 said:
Regardless, knowing now that this axle is set up with packed wheel bearings instead of fluid lubed bearings, I will be keeping a close eye on them!
I was also surprised by the packed wheel bearings. Most every ff axle I’ve worked on uses the “splash” method for lubrication.
You can look upon it as a learning adventure. 😮
-
Your wheels are standard 15” with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. Many aftermarket wheels that fit are available. White wagon style wheels are very reasonable and come in different widths and offsets. Summit Racing has a great selection.
Wagon style wheels have a large center bore, so no problem with fitment. Any 15” hubcap will also fit.
I’m running 14” fronts and 15” rears. Bought two separate sets of same style ABS hubcaps off Amazon. One in 14” and one 15”. Hard to tell by looking that I have two different diameter wheels.
I can’t seem to find wheels for those tires. All of the wheels that seem to fit are trailer wheels and I’m guessing that won’t work.
-
83 ranger posted a link to a good source of 6lug ff axle. Vehicle is in CA.
-
6 lug ff axle and 6 lug front hubs have some value. Worth about $1K. Coach is junk.
-
If you take the time to read the link I posted earlier in this thread it will answer most of your questions. This is a screenshot from that link showing pitman arm index marks.
-
6 minutes ago, hortonma said:
I took it to my mechanic and he said it all looked fine. I put a new set of 8ply tires on it, changed the oil, changed the differential oil, transmission oil, new spark plugs, new wires, new rotor and cap.
Yes, I am running duals on the foolie. I thought that was the discussion we were having. I am confused now
Why do you want to switch to single rear wheels? Or did you make that decision after starting your trip.
-
Did you do any preventative maintenance before embarking on a 1200 mile road trip ?
And more importantly, are you running duals on a foolie axle?
-
23 minutes ago, hortonma said:
The tires I was looking at getting for this setup are apparently rated for 2800 lbs. They are FREE COUNTRY Premium Trailer Tires ST225/75R15 10PR.
would this allow me to stretch it a little farther?
The water tank was definitely not full and the gas tank was a little over 3/4 full.
No trailer tires …….
-
Your Weber problem could be the two piece adapter used to mate it to the Toyota manifold. They are known for problems with vacuum leaks.
-
2 hours ago, hortonma said:
So I was able to get my rig weighed. The total weight came out to 5300 lbs with a rear weight of 3800lbs. Does that seem correct? I just drove the front wheels off of the scale to make this measurement. if the total weight is 5300, it seems like the rear should actually be slightly less. That idea isn't based off anything else but what seems logical to me.
If I do switch to the one-wheel set up, would I always have to maintain less than 4k? Is that 4k what the axle shafts are rated for, or is it what those tires could support with only one? what if I have some extra supplies with me on the storage rack up top, or I am sitting in the back with another person? how sensitive is this number? Has anyone in this forum actually done this?Thank you
The 4K number is usually the maximum safe weight for 2 tire axle withC or D rated tires. Some tires might be rated slightly higher but you want to leave a little “fudge factor “ for
things like luggage or even bumps and potholes.
I would guess you’re very near the cutoff line for singles. 3800 can be done. Did you fill the gas tank and fresh water tank before weighing? If not, do that and then weigh again.
-
4 hours ago, KonCon said:
Thank you @fred heath, I'll read through it later. To help with my overall understanding, can you explain why you recommend using a new pitman arm and not the old one?
Thank you very much.
Think of your pitman arm as a ball joint attached to to a metal extension. Ball joints need replacement over time. So do pitman arms. Unless you know for certain the age of your current arm it makes sense to change it out now rather than wait and have to do it later. That arm is crucial to maintaining steering integrity. It just makes sense to do it now with everything open. You might want to do your idler arm at the same time.
-
Use a new pitman arm and new 32mm bolt, not the old ones. I’ve attached a link that you should read. This is a well written article.
-
Well my whole rig was carpeted in blue shag rug. The floors, walls and the cab floor.
I didn’t even want to consider the amount of strange DNA on that floor. 😮
-
I did that very thing. I wanted to switch panes of sliding glass on my side windows.
Cut the weld with a rotary tool and cutoff blade. You should be able to spread the frame enough to get the glass out.
When I reinstalled my frame, the rough opening was a tight enough fit that the frame compressed itself back to original. Shoot some sealant in the crack just to be safe.
-
I gutted mine down to the shell. My home is a 1979 with steel cage frame and fiberglass cover. I knew my gutting would have no structural issues. If your home is traditional wood frame I would be careful so as not to affect its strength.
A clean slate allowed me to configure the coach to my liking. Nothing of the original floor plan remains. I have a strong background in the building trades. Cost was materials only. I provided the labor.
Any improvements you can accomplish on your own you can do. If you need to contract work out, that can get expensive.
Painted cabinet’s and new fixtures would definitely modernize things.
-
You need a 6 wire voltage regulator if your alternator uses the green plug.
Early Toyota used a 5 wire voltage regulator. If your VR is 5 wire, the green plug alternator won’t work. You need the older style alternator.
Your vehicle is late enough in production that it would use the 6 wire VR.
-
If you have no luck with local suppliers, any company that manufacturers hydraulic hoses can make you a replacement. Google search for companies near you.
-
Pop the distributor cap and watch the rotor as the engine turns over. If it spins around, the timing chain is still attached.
-
The fitting spins around the tube. Once the fitting is free of the body, just pull the tube straight out.
-
Try flipping the wrench over. Sometimes you can get a better grab with the handle pointed down.
-
7 minutes ago, KonCon said:
Just heated it up and no issue. One question I have of there is a key size between a 16 and 17 metic? The 17 one just has too much play so it "jumps" when putting a lot of force on it
You could try a 5/8” SAE wrench. It sounds like the fitting has been rounded over. Vice grips might be needed.
-
1 minute ago, KonCon said:
Just heated it up and no issue. One question I have of there is a key size between a 16 and 17 metic? The 17 one just has too much play so it "jumps" when putting a lot of force on it
Are you using a flare wrench? A regular open end wrench will round the fitting over. 6 pt is what you want.
Worst case, try a small set of vice grips and see if you can loosen it that way.
mini mirage on c/l chico
in General Discussion
Posted
Cab appears to be rust free. Still has the factory hubcaps. Not worth $8K but would make a good project rig for the right price.