jabberwocky

Hey ! i bought a 77' chinook last Christmas as well. Both my windows wouldnt roll up or down, the mechanics worked fine,. The glass window has metal clamps attached to the bottom, which are bolted to the mechanism. these metal clamps have a piece of rubber or something inbetween the window, which get brittle and fall off the window. which is what happened in mine. i found this rubber grip tape for stairs, that i taped onto the window, put epoxy on it, then i used a wooden mallet to put the metal clamp back on. you have to make sure you get it in the correct spot or it wont align right. we'll see how long it stays on for... and i hear that a silicone spray, on your locks is better than wd40, which is water based. to help the sticking, and to lube it up, Spray it and use move the lock back and forth a couple times. but use what you got, im sure wd40 would'nt hurt. hope that helps, cheers

for the walls, have you considered using the 1/4" wood finish panels( oak or something ) instead of the white melamine? the one that replicates the tongue and groove. it work nicely since your putting in a stainless backsplash.

It is looking good, thank you for the photographs. i am wondering how you got the Roxul to adhere to the fiberglass wall?

i know it is Roxul, ( http://www.roxul.com/home ) they use a stone wool design which provides fire resistant/ sound resistant/ water & mildew resistant. not sure the product name with the sheeting on it already, i believe he mentions more about it in the forum.

the Santa Fe one looks good, looks like he had it detailed, a good sign he has taken good care of it. worth looking into and seeing how long hes owned it. im sure you could get it for 8. although it seems John might have a better deal for ya. ive been thinking of designing a fold down hot tub mounted on the outside, rear of my camper. i like idea, of finding one that needs refurbished, so that you can get, New materials and designs that you like.

for 10 grand, it should never of had any leaks, no rust, a hot tub and women included. you can get 1989 dolphins for 2 grand in ok condition that have never leaked. i would get one for 2k, invest another 2k and you have a brand new camper. i would seal the outside shell, brand new interior to your liking, and maintain the mechanics, call it good. and you could still be under 5k easy. gotta have some room left over for solar. http://www.statewide...A&button=Search there are a lot in california if you dont mind traveling, also search under regualar Cars, there is more in there as well.

i have a 1977 toy chinook, it used to have ac, it looks to be a super easy installation, you dont even need to dismantle anything under the bonnet,. it bolts to the left, near the oil filter. as ac goes, i prefer not. you would need to attatch an entirely new belt, i dont like. even though it will only put little fractions of strain on the engine, and only when you have the ac in an on position. better mpg? debatable. working your old engine harder on a hot day, not cool. myself, i have been thinking of installing a simple, inexpensive, vent/fan in the roof. unless you need a cool breeze on a hot day, go for it. although, you will need to purchase the toy first. have the only camper in town that can peelout. just keep the old tires on.

Hello enthusiasts, i've been a a guest here for a while, now i finally have a reason to post something. I bought a 1977 Toyota Chinook last Wednesday, December 7th in Eugene, Or. i have questions and concerns about the floor rebuild, i found someone that did it on here http://toyotamotorho...h=1 its not making me confident on what to do. where do i support(jack), to take fiberglass body off the frame? when off, where do i support fiberglass body to take floor out? floor rotten door and door frame rotten i took the rain gutter off, it was leaking, and im thinking of sealing the holes and leaving it off.