MAXXFabrication

WOW- those are big!! if someone can get me measurements and I can come up with something. my Lexan/poly guy is located in Mo as well (that where I am at) so I can get the measurements to him

TADA! the cab all slid together and tacked in place and you can see the wiper in place.

floor boards and the marks for cutting

cut back of cab, here you can see the frame/jig to hold it all in place

back of cab marked for cutting. I made a frame/Jig that telescoped together so as I cut the cab apart it wouldnt flop around making it all mis-aligned

here is the cowl and roof tacked together (not to each other!)

I am narrowing a cab for my trail truck for competition and a to be just an all around fun truck. long story short I ended up with a rust free 83 cab from Arizona that got a little body damage in the left front headlight bucket area from popping out of gear and rolling down a hill into a tree. my current trail trucks floor boards were shot so I decided to swap cabs, while at it I decided to narrow (like chopping an old hot rods roof but sideways) the truck to make it more nimble and stable. I am using a Toyota landcruiser front axle (63.5 inches wide) and a 96 and up 4runner rear (60 inches wide) to further make it more stable (original width was 55.5 front 55 rear) so in all with narrowing it 12 inches and widening up the axles 8 inches I will be 10 inches offset on each side- not too bad at all. I will post a link to my build on Yotatech so I wont have to post up all the pics here. here is the cab. the blue is marking compound, the parts that are solid yellow in the center of the blue is what is to be cut out (marking it like this allows for me to take the metal right down until the yellow is gone insuring exact amount of metal is removed, no more no less) when cutting this much out it is crucial that you stagger all your cuts 1. for strength. 2. to make it look as clean as possible. it would be nice if I could cut out 12 inches ryt down the center (I did on the roof, where you can get away with it)

LOL, yeah I figured on that- I am not going to go too big at all, I have left the rear most window unsealed/not taken out and cleaned up and painted then urethaned in yet. plus I can always remove my passenger seat to get one in that way (or so I have read it works that way)

LMAO- I know what you mean, mine goes 0 to 60 in like ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................wait for it ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

do you mean the side windows linda? I am only making the front wrap around windows- the plexi "stuff" I will have pricing when I get the bill on them, I had 10 pairs made for starters and the bill will be in with my shipment.

my butt dyno is out of this one, my customers butt dyno is all that matters, I can always swap the 4.10s in if they arent happy with the 4.30s. thanks for your input- having both in 2 different RVs is probably the best scenario for advice on if there is a notable difference between the 2.

I am thinking the 4.30s in an older 22R would give a little bit more pep to it, I know its not much but then again an addition of a header etc doesn't provide an overwhelming increase in power. I dont think it would be a drawback to use these instead of 4.10s

I didnt know a T100 would bolt up. a great option for sure

okay, so I cant log in under Bryan B so here I am!! been on here for a bit under MaxxFabrication. Windows for the 210 RKB are done and being shipped to me- my Lexan/polycarbonate guy had a death in the family and was out of town dealing with family matters and I havent bugged him about these, he contacted me with an apology and they were shipped out yesterday. I will post up pics of the install in my Sunrader later this week. I am using a local window/glass company for the rubber gaskets which are generic and available in large rolls. there are 2 styles of gasket available- 1 has a piece that fits in to make the seal a bit tighter (2 piece design) and the other is like the standard window seal we all have (1 piece design). I will post up what and where to measure to be sure I am getting all the styles/sizes that were made in the front of a Sunrader.

whats all the fuss? do you really want to have to pay to fill up a 28 gallon tank!?? LOL, kidding everyone- my 21 ft Sunrader has the large tank and it looks quite simple, a very basic sheet metal design. if it werent for the liability I could produce/copy my existing tank but we live in a litigious society and the first accident where one would leak would be the end of my fabricating career. maybe have a waiver signed when purchasing it?!

sweet, I am currently fridgeless during the rehab, something to use as a reference when building cabinets for me. Thanks Derek, once again another great link

Like the title says, has anyone swapped in a 4.30 rear diff? any input? I am swapping in a full floater for a customer with the 5lug fake dually and was "toying" with the idea of using a 4.30 rear diff ratio in it and wanted anyones input that has this gear set. I know there are 4.56 and 4.88s but I am looking for someone with 4.30s and possibly a 4 speed.

A 4wd in low range revving at redline would get much hotter than that, no air flow like on the highway. You are correct when you said it is a very different application, a much more severe duty one at that (4X4s), a 4wd will punish a 22R or diesel more than a camper, low range has the engine revving a hell of alot more than going down the highway with wind resistance. as well as it has no airflow(4X4) other than what your fan is providing, allowing the heat to build up under hood to temps well above highway use. I own several Toyota 4wds and have raced and competed with them for over 20 years, I know the 22R like the back of my hand, the diesel will rev less with more torque than a 22R will, on the highway you wouldnt be turning nearly the RPMS you would with a 22R to accomplish the same thing.

yes, its in the title- unless he edited it after posting. PAY ATTENTION!!!

that Mercedes is a great engine but way too heavy for a Toyota VW turbo diesel is the way to go, alot of Toyota guys have had great luck in swapping these, ACME adapters (like as in Wile E. Coyote ACME!) makes the adapter to bolt up to a 22R/22RE. it is a very popular Toyota diesel swap.

kind of relative, the 4runners that have the 4.88s are only the automatics with the 31 inch tire option and one would think they would have alot of low end power bu they lack it very much. so yes, with an auto you would be able to get away with lower (diff) gears than with a 5 speed.

What about a sealed gel type battery? they dont vent any gas at all and are totally sealed- optima, and other types

to answer part of your question about the fan clutch, when the water temp rises in your radiator the air becomes hotter flowing through it and in turn the hotter the fan clutch become the more it locks up and causes the fan clutch to work. you can change the viscosity on one to make it more efficient

the R150 is pretty much the same thing- not in respect to it visually but the minitruck/supra and other Toyota guys who really know their stuff use and swear by this behind everything with any large amount of horsepower. it is bomb proof so to speak. I have yet to do a manual in a 1UZFE swap, but 2 companys make a bellhousing to bolt them up to that V8 and stock it pumps out 280 HP- I as well as the supra guys who have built the turbo straight 6s and lexus (1UZFE V8s) up to well over 600 hp have used these behind them. your 22R four Cyl wont ever break, wear out, ruin, stress, overheat aR150. not real hard to find, and there is a newer version you can make work. will post that info up when I dig it up.

the toughest 2wd trans is the R150, if you can get 1 of those. the first gear ratio is 3.83 and it is virtually indestructable.