Bryan B

it seems the soft spots I thought were bad needed a little attention, I will lay a sheet of 1 inch plywood down on the entire floor to reinforce it and add a little structure to my couch build and new cabinets/closet. I am taking pics of what I am doing- will post a couple up here for you Sandi. All my hardwood laminate was free!! check craigslist for someone with an overstock or leftover from a job site and you can get it cheap, or free in some cases. I wanted pine and I happened to find pine so I lucked out.

I will try pushing it back up before I get to doing too much behind it, if I could find a scrapped 21 ft sunrader I would entertain the thought of glassing in a "new" roof section before rehabing it, in other worsds making it about 5 inches more head room above.

Im layin some pine laminate this week in my sunrader Sandi- I will post up some pics here on what I am doing for ya. I am making it a "floating" floor

The lexus V8 is one to consider in a swap as well. it is readily available and there are adapters that make it a bolt in swap, in most respects it is an easier swap than the 3.4 (you only get a little more HP with the 3.4 than the 3.0, not worth the 30 hp in my opinion, 160 to 190) no exhaust to rework around things or nearly the clearance issues as with the 3.4. neat side note, the1991 mustang GT(5.0) and 1991 corvette(5.7) had less horsepower than the 1991 Lexus 4.0!! Mustang 225, corvette 245, lexus 260-270 now hows that for a bad behind small block!?, plus you still get 300,000 mile Toyota reliability.

I seen a thread recently about using a GM alt- I thought some of you Toyota guys may find this link of some use when upgrading electrical systems http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/bigalt.htm

or try a toyota or honda Alt. upgrade here http://home.earthlin...galt.htm#hongen

I am looking into furnaces and am wondering what suggestions some of you might have when adding a furnace (mine was gone when I got it) I have plenty of room, I just want to figure it in when remodeling. I would prefer as small as I can get but will work with whats out there

I will post up some pics of the big window I redid for referance. that single solid stationary mounted window(not the slider) was the loosest and leaking bad, about to start rattling.

I have removed and redone all the outside windows on my sunrader, I had leaks that were generously repaired with silicone sometime ago (unsuccessfully) I removed each window and frame then used a razor blade at a 90 degree angle to the body to scrape any residual silicone/ and other gooey sh*t off. I then took a used green scotchbrite pad to clean and prep the surface around the window (motorhome fiberglass body side) for the urethane I am using to make it adhere better. I scothbrited the aluminum frames as well and found quite a few leaks around the glass that is glued into the frames (not the sliding glass but the stationary one in the frame) so I removed them out of the frames as well, I used windsheild urethane from Crest- let me tell you, you better wear gloves when using this stuff and tape a perimeter around the window frames THIS STUFF IS STICKY!!! and dam messy. I spray painted the frames flat black like original and reasealed the loose windows into the frames with the urethane, then I placed the frames back into the opening after running a small bead of urethane around the entire window opening on the outside surface of the fiberglass- make sure you tape off the areas first and dont stop the bead, keep a nice even pressure on the caulk gun and just lay a 1/8 1/4 inch bead all the way around. you may need 2 people for the larger windows. after doing all of them I can say without a doubt that not 1 window leaks or will leak in some time. this stuff is S-T-R-O-N-G, just like a peice of rubber when it dries. it is use to hold and seal winsheilds in place without leaking. An added bonus is that it did stiffen up the entire structure after doing each one ( like I said this stuff is strong, but flexible) So if you are redoing your windows or just have a leak, use this stuff and be done with it. or sealing any other motorhome related leaks in some of the roofs...

posting up a pic would help

yes the window opening holes are a little "big"!! LOL, the front window on the sunrader isnt formed as well as it could have been to shape to the fiberglass opening making it a headache to put in, the lexan is a bit more rigid. As for scratching easier, there is a solution that the company that I deal with offers, they have a ahrdcoat that resists wiper scractches ( I have a polycarb windhield in an off road truck that looks very good after using it for years from this company) As far as clarity goes compared to plexi, lexan is identical when veiwed side by side.

I ended up buying 4 @ 141 each, shipping was cheaper. I will get the front 2 as well later, for now I will be putting together all the parts for a solid axle swap and will most likely have this same set of tires for sale later when I am able to get some 16" wheels made in the large 6 pattern(for a fair price).

I am redoing my new to me 1983 Toyota Sunrader, the interior is shot and half removed so good for me to less work. the roof has some sagging towards the front of the camper I plan on redoing all of it from the front windows back, right now I hjust removed both side wood and insulation peices that are on right and left of cabover sleeper are and am re-urethaning the slider window seals, adding R8 foam insulation and new wood paneling. I will post up pics as I redo it, as for now I will be hunting out of this as I redo it (its deer season here-archery) so the front sleeping area gets done first. I added a new subfloor to take care of a couple soft spots that I cut out and redid and am adding pergo laminate flooring. I am missing the peice that goes over the driver/passenger so the loft sleeping area is solid, so I will be making my own. hinged with a gas strut and a 28" flat screen inside of it so when it is flipped open it is a great place for TV veiwing from the couch or seats. pics later My roof sag will need to be addressed, I am a fabricator so my hope is to keep my reinforcing low profile. I will be adding a hidden gun storage area that is fully lockable for guns, bows and valubles. I am adding insulation where it didnt have any before, and a higher R Value as well- I am trying to make it better off for me when I am bowhunting in 5 degrees. anything any of you would do ? anything you would do different if you were doing yours over? add anything? creature comforts?

LOL, thanks Kim- its not about the money at all. I dont think choices for replacement are fair in our economy right now and the quality of what is available is well.... crap. If I am buying a 375 dollar window and still have to spend another 50-100 for a gasket thats plain nuts. It is a junk window to begin with, lets all just admit that. plexiglass? really? why not improve something when it fails? maybe its just me.

Okay so after alot of reading and some research into it I have decided to produce replacement windows for the Sunraders curved front plexiglass. The ones that are originally from the factory are plexiglass (or if you prefer, plexicrap) and they have no UV resistance whatsoever, and I am guessing the 375 dollar replacement ones dont either (I find it funny the owner of sunrader kept making replacement windows loooong after Sunrader has been gone, go figure) Its a free and open market on these, no patent infingment etc. I will be making these out of Lexan (polycarbonate, Lexan is a commercial name) I will have a breakage/cracking warranty on each window, other than an auto accident (which I doubt will break it) these are VERY break resistant, I can bend one in a circle and it will bounce back every time without cracking. BTW conveinance store bullet proof windows are made out of polycarbonate, I am not saying these are bullet proof but they wont shatter like plexicrap does, the bullet would leave a small hole only. I will not have these available until late december, I do have the mold made and am negotiating a deal with a company to mass produce these for me (and no, they wont be anywhere close to 375 a peice) I will include both gaskets. The window wont appear concave at any point like our factory windows do/did. I will offer 3 tints- clear, smoke and dark. as for now I will not discuss any pricing. any suggestions?

I wouldnt knock lexan as having inferior quality optics, I have a polycarbonate(lexan) windsheild in my Trail truck and not one person has been able to tell the difference- even the state inspection tech(mandatory DOT glass or approved goggles) for what its worth and where its going you will be fine using it.

the biggest concern would be that if it did fail it could possibley cause a death (yours or an oncoming vehicles occupants)

MOGS rock!! lol. Yes I do use mine off road for hunting etc, I know the mileage may suffer a bit but these are great tires. best price I found so far is online- 131 a peice

you wouldnt want to sell the transfer case would ya?

Thanks Linda, I do remember that stockton did custom wheels but I didnt know what the history was to what caused their demise.

has anyone tried these tires? I beleive after doing some measuring that they will fit on the rear and front of my sunrader, they are load range D and are ony 10 mm wider than the 185 (5 mm per side of each tire) I dont see sidewall bulge being a problem, they seem to have plenty of room. any thoughts?

1983 Hilux, obviously not stock.

I am posting up a pic of my 83 sunrader and my 83 shortbed pickup both are identical bodies but wow, how different they are but yet the same.

I am going to try and attend, have to confirm after this weekend. Remember that its is in Amish country, when those nice folks come up behind our motorhomes pull aside and let the line of buggys by!! LOL, just kiddin- they arent THAT slow!!!!

adding the rear will be easy, it will bllot up in place where your axle is now, maybe you can use your existing brake lines to it (20+yrs old, replace) and the u bolt plates that your current rear uses should have your shock mounts incorporated into them so those will bolt up as well. shouldnt be too bad. find a shop familiar with toy pickups or do it youself