a2ndopinion

First off, being a newb here, I don't mean to jump on toes, and this is a great discussion, but I'm seeing some things here that I just have to comment on. What?!?! Where in the world did you get that from? All of the above is great, except that NOx is nitrogen oxides, a by-product of combustion - which increases with temperature. Nitrous Oxide is N2O. Oh - and it is not predetonation, it is just detonation. I think you are mixing pre-ignition and detonation. It sounds kind of like irregardless. Efficiency does not necessarily make power. Period. Complete burning of the mixture does not mean more BTU's have been created, it just means that the exhaust will be cleaner. Now maybe if you were to raise the compression ratio to more like 11:1, the engine could take advantage of the cooler burning (lower BTUs) of the ethanol, and then make more power. Ethanol isn't a bad thing, but it can't be dumped into our current engines and expect better returns. CNG to a diesel is kind of like what Nitrous Oxide is to a gasoline engine, and puts the same kind of strain on components.

They are NOT the same, and being around MANY Celicas with the same driveline, what you will probably experience first is leaks starting, including the infamous "alternator lubricator", and then lines starting to bleed through. I would reccomend draining the steering fluid and putting in the correct Dexron ATF - BTW, there is no "T" in Dexron.

That is a 2.4L 4 cyl. The 22 is model #, not displacement. The 20R is a 2.2L, but was upgraded to the 2.4 in '81. I agree with the valve adjustment - usually goes a long way, but my recommendation - and I work on a lot of these, specializing in RWD Celicas- is adjust them HOT, and one cyl at a time - #1 TDC, timing mark aligned, adjust intake and exhaust, turn engine 180 degrees, adj #3, then another 180 degrees and the timing mark will line up again for #4... Oh, and adjust to a "modified" .007 intake and .010 exhaust. If you are looking to replace the engine, use an '85 and later engine, as they have a slight bit more power due to a complete redesign by Toyota, and ensure that it is rebuilt with a steel timing chain guide!

The Weber passes emissions here in Oregon, but all they look for is a cat with a mirror under the vehicle, and that it passes an exhaust sniffer - they don't open the hood. My Corona passed two years ago with a Crane (TRD) stage 2 cam and ported and polished 20R head. I'm going through this week, so we'll see if it passes with a Comp 280S cam! The Weber is very simple, and if you can play with the jetting, can net a very clean exhaust and great fuel mileage, besides getting rid of the spaghetti factory of vacuum lines under the hood. There is also an "emissions" version. eBay has about the best prices for the complete carb kit - about $275 with adapter plates, air filter... I went for the stock look with the air filter though - which keeps the heater on the cold air snorkel.