Totem

I observed the sound on mine like this under these conditions. Turns out it was the low battery alarm from the inverter.

the only thing extra long about this sunrader is the potential lifespan of its chain when compared to a belt. <bada bing>

i did not have a technical microfilm on it like you do, I found it on a web site somewhere. I noticed some say 90 some 105, with each person matter of factly speaking their opine on it in each case; much like we see in here. In the end 60k miles is even far less than what I generously gave it. Thank you for that! I think you will state for the record that it is in fact NOT over 200,000 miles.

My stats came from Maineah...LOL the thing here is ... This all started because someone took offense to me recommending replacing belts at recommended interval and suggesting its quite ok to ignore belt change past 200k miles I am assuming in an attempt to suggest that was one of the reasons for preferring a 3.4 to a 22re. I had read online 90k for the 3.4 but you have proven it to be 60 in fact. either way I wont have to deal with a belt change if its easy or not.

Fascinating, so now its Chain recommendation is by sound or not at all and Belt at 60,000 miles per Derek and we have Maineah in the background saying something about belts being easier to work on than chains which may just be because they are done more often. yet no one is disputing the vast amount of Rigs (in this site) that have 22s in them with over 200k miles applied to them from factory. How many 3.4's with toy home chasis in here again that had their miles applied in them? This is looking better by the minute for sticking with a 2x series motor, Of which I prefer the 22re personally. Cult like following aside, I have mine doing exactly what i need it to. So, Maineah, whats the procedure for replacing the belt in the 3.4 ? any sticky wickets there or is it just a socket wrench and some wd 40... no special tools? no timing adjustments or callibration? you have well described the 22re maintenance process. Thats good to know. funny thing is - as per observation in here, and elswhere the 22re was famous for being awesome. And of course to Dereks point its nice to get warning before failure which chains do nicely. Belts not so much. keep going this is great discussion...

Excellent to see the chain hold up that well. Well within numbers reported on belt users. I am on a rant because of a perception that the belts are somehow vastly superior to chains or have some magical property about them that makes them ok to ignore their recommended service interval any more than a chain. On an interference motor like our 22's we tend to have a mindset on proper maintenance observations but if we want to discuss longevity between the two motors I am also of the belief the 22 series is just as perfectly capable of going through a desert drought of maintenance neglect as chancing over 200k with a belt. Apparently its an un-"poop"- ular opinion... hehehehe There is also a misconception that valve to piston interference is the only slayer of a motor when a belt or chain fails. however in many V motors the valves themselves can slap each other and grenade also even though the motor is considered non interference in its traditional sense. This is known as "valve interference". At present I am unsure if the 3.4 is one of these or not. Perhaps our nascent conversational players can update us on that.

this video shows exactly why i did what i did. improved it where i needed it; kept everything else the same. the only thing that doesnt match my vin is my hubs and axle and thats all done.

Im never getting suckered into saying it has more power than 3.4 though derek...

some more fun for dan: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/220404-life-beyond-200k-miles-22re.html OMG ^ wow! look at that? still means nothing to me even though its in my favor and one of your own favorite sites. recommended maintenance interval done by licensed mech with oem VIN showing same motor as whats in it will be easier in the end can you imagine anyone else working on your 3.4 other than you now in that chassis? that's some explaining you will need to do.

Belts will fail from tensioner, pulleys, leaks, and all sorts of other issues. its never the belt its always something else that "ate the belt". At that point you still have to get it out and the old one in and that's when the stuck bolts and other issues show up just like with chains.. are they a bit more involved possibly not but may require more specialized tools. should they be changed at recommended intervals? yes. Recommended intervals from toyota are? chain 90k. belt 90-105k. facts are pesky things but 90 - 105 is a difference of 15% if you go by the book. you will still need to do water pump and the lovelies while in there. Belt motors only advantage to me is the non interference aspect in this case but there are other issues with it. I had an interference vw tdi loose a belt and grenade its motor. All my chain motors run fine. The old 22re was at 86k when removed; so it was due for a chain.... water pump and the lovelies. I replaced them by god. all of them. with performance. sue me and by the way mr. "grammar police" there are more than one cam available for the 22re from 22re performance. so it is in fact cams plural. you select a stage and cam to go with it. so there you have it CAMS.

you stated the 22re is a "loud" motor from various erroneous things that would be imperceptible to the real noise maker on them - the exhaust and its constant leak fighting. So I disagree with you on the true cause of any noise which is the exhaust. Spelling out things for you is much akin to trying to teach Helen Keller how to listen to herself reading an eye chart. At least your dog is trying to clean your house.

sorry maineah, i couldnt help trolling someone that gets burned motors for the belts... :-)

Never stated it would be for the 22re - just educating you on the built heads of 22reperformance are in fact ported and not stock which is akin to my afore mentioned example with the 22r/20r head mod. I also disagree on the exhaust with you. The exhaust path on the toyota pickup is horribly stiff and does not flex well. For that its prone with vibration and extreme heat and thus leaks form and leaks are louder. With a well sealed exhaust path the 22re pickup is not that bad sound wise.

I'm just not a fan of paying for Belt changes and am the sort that would worry about them. Danny Dan is a self professed master mechanic that has had prior experience lighting a motor on fire to show the resilience of the belt and YES lets see those pics! I fully yield the lack of experience on my part of driving vehicles with belts far longer than they should be and I do NOT like tearing down V blocks. I dont really like working inside motors - I have people do that. ambient tester testing of parts is unfortunately though, more than that. The motor would need to be run in a hot box that simulates the duty cycle temperatures of the application. So how does the 7000 pounds of motorhome make any difference to the belt or chain ? Again, I will state my personal belief that the Toy bay will be much hotter and under more stresses than the normal environment and not its intended tested one. So in effect you putting the 3.4 in is just that. You will need to duty cycle it to failure before you can state that it will achieve any form of longevity in that application. And yes these engines are tough. I am in no way offended by this conversation, I am sorry if my opinions have offended anyone, but they stand. I have no experience fabricating motors into unintended applications but work with people that do and test them; and before any facts can be stated about performance, testing must occur. the 22re was applied to these motor homes so I stayed with that.

And i can also elaborate on the truth on engineering comment also - context! Belts are more far more prone to heat and ambient failure than chains. So you have seen some belts last a while because owners ignored service interval and reported unicorn stories on a truck site? Thats great how many had 7000 lbs of RV on them again? The all important truth in engineering is form fit AND function. Sell me a part designed to withstand a certain temp well enough to make warranty in the as intended duty environment is one thing but telling me that part will perform the same pulling 6800-7000 lbs plus air resistance of the rigs shape in a small bay that heats up fast in july... kevlar or not thats a recipe for premature failure on known duty cycle let alone extra expectations... lecture me when that tortured 3.4 hits 350k miles in a toy home like the 22res already have.

Hey look, he dropped in a nice non-interference engine in a bay that most likely had a 3.0 in it to start correct? There was a lot of fabrication compared to a bolt in swap of same oem motor. All the more power to him. I congratulate the effort, but why not put a hemi or diesel and have it shoot flames on a lift kit? The points i am making here were in context to a guy thats bay is setup for a 22re and the fact you can slide a power band to a better place with a built 22re motor. Couple that with the built motor having better chain guides than stock and known wear points being made better -To me its better than trying to re-engineer that situation into something else. Ive seen the blog its a cool build but less space. The only thing i am not in alignment on is that belt or any belt tortured by the heat of the motor home situation holding up like a chain nor giving the warning signs before it goes. Those truck belts just arent seeing strained duty heat like these RVs. I was pleased to see the 3.4 was non interference so hes got me there though ive read many reports of 22res breaking chains and being ok no bent rods. Either way there are a heck of a lot of 22re based rigs running passed 200k in this forum in reality - truth also I am still skeptical on the claims of corvette speeds on steep slopes even with that setup. Ohhh but it could be supercharged and turbod and.. well a simple head change on a 20r on as in my case cams for a 22re porting etc can also be done with far less space and tinkering. To get real world practical power also with far less modifications and a shop can still work on it with a chiltons manual and not need you in there. I dont think the 22re has to be a loud motor either it just suck how still the exhaust path is and how hot it gets.

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4347-how-many-miles-does-your-dolphin-have/ The above link was all i found on quick glance. Impressive amount of 22res in there. I wonder what motor oil they were using? (lol)

Simple survey to the admins or others. We have a lot of data right here in this site. What are the OEM mileage kings as reported here? Whats your rigs mileage at on original motor before any overhaul. This would be a truth in engineering measurement here - an actual toy home not a t100 or 4 runner etc.

I'm your huckleberry on that bet Danny. I guarantee you I have a better shot of making 200k on my single row chain than you do on your or any belt. Especially since toyota's service interval on your belt is 105k. I qualified my "million mile motor comment" to be 200k just as you did claiming 200k. I mean if we are going full on hyperbole here why stop at 200k... This reminds me of people talking about what MPG these things gets. " I get 27 MPG and the rig is for sale" Not one of the trucks in Yota tech has a camper on it and over gross. Ok I am done.

I do love traveling the states that have free dumpers at rest areas. wish they all did this.

WME did the motor build that I did AND he changed his gear ratio for much better performance. So the transmission stays the same if you want to keep automatic. I am not a fan of a stick shift in an RV due to the frequency i find myself in traffic on trips. personally I found the 4.10 gearing to by just fine once the new motor went in. Maybe someday I will change gear ratio if I become unsatisfied. To fix your goose fire poker issue if thats all you care about is easy. pop your hood and find your exhaust header Y pipe. start your RV. with hood open put your hand near the pipe without giving yourself a frat branding and feel for air all around the Y pipe and where it attaches to the down pipe. if you feel leaky air THAT is the source of the goose scream at high under duress RPM. you will find the nuts and possibly one of the 3 studs missing of course. some find all of them gone and its just hanging by a mount. In order to fix you will need to either make your own gaskets or get some proper donught gaskets - the y pipe takes 2 of them as the old ones are shot after so many years and even if recent they are the first thing to go on the tortured exhaust path of these overworked rigs. no leak there? continue down the exhaust but also check where the header pipes meet the engine for air leaking. same story there also, it will need new gaskets and nuts.

just wanted to make sure i hadn't fat fingered 15 times... I was going to put up my spare 22re in there as available and put a want add for a 1980's -90's 22re based dead 4 runner. I know I will never find one but why not. probably should hit wreck yards for that

in short you are lucky! only need one spare wheel. a visit to a wreck yard as Derek mentioned would be fastest cheapest route to getting a wheel; ebay would be the easiest and slightly more expensive

all of the above being said.... the stock 22re was not designed nor optimized to push air in a sunrader. I had a perfectly good one in mine and low mileage at that; but it was taking so long to get to where we wanted to go I just had to do something; and why not do it in style (Jims motor finish is beautiful with a hammered powder coating that really is a thing of beauty. Getting a motor that's custom ported with a different cam and other properties will indeed get you to where you want your rig performing while still being a 22re. However if you want a faster experience than 70-75 mph which in my mind is not needed the 3.4 is indeed the way to go but please do change its belt every 80-90k like any other belt motor; otherwise you could lose your investment