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RVdaytrader

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    Engine/trans swaps

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Here is a place that does the swap start to finish. If closer to me I think I would do it. This is their email reply if they knew of a place closer to Durango that did the swap.

    RE: 3.0L to 3.4L swap
     
    C
    cliff@toyonlyswaps.com
     
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    Reply|
    Mon 1/30, 11:24 AM
     
      No sir I do not, however we have customers from all over the country as far away as South Carolina, you may consider transport a option, it could save you money in the long run, and could save some heart ache knowing your Toyota is in good hands. We can drop you off or pick you up at the Eugene Airport if needed, Thanks, Below is our quote sheet take a look and let me know what you think . 
    3.4 swap 88-95 3.0 V6 manual trans. 
        Complete 3.4 swap/conversion,  parts and labor including engine $4500 Base price If you are automatic add $500 in most cases. This is a start to finish 100% completed conversion ready for pickup,  We have customers from all over the world, we can accept transport of your vehicle or arrange to drop you off/pick you up at the Airport/Train/bus station business hours. 
        Engines are all fully tested and inspected to ensure they have been taken care of, come with a 90 day warranty,  average mileage in the 120-150k range. Lower mileage engines can be found prices vary. We will select your engine and let you know exactly what year and mileage is available before we purchase your engine. We need 3 weeks or less to complete your conversion from the time you drop off your vehicle.  A deposit of half down is due before we purchase your conversion, and hold your shop time. Ask about our lead times, we can have swaps booked out for 2 months at times.
     
     
    Factory systems 
    Not all our customers have these options, and they require additional parts and labor to keep functioning. If you currently have these options and would like to keep them functional
     
    Auto locking hubs $100 "4x4s only"
    Cruise control $150
    Air conditioning $150 "if your system is currently functioning and charged."
     
    Options, All parts are Factory Toyota, or Aisin OEM replacment. 
    Often times the engines we source will have timing belt stickers or show signs of a recent timing belt and water pump. Front main, rear main, and cam seals are inspected and rarely show any signs of leaking. Below are commonly requested maintenance  by our customers, if you have any other requests let us know.
     
    New Aisin water pump and Toyota timing belt $250 installed
    New Aisin belt tensioner and bearings add $150 installed 
    New factory Toyota thermostat $25
    New Bando Alternator, ac, Power steering belt $60
    New factory Toyota spark plug wires and spark plugs $85
    Rear main seal replacement with Factory Toyota Seal $100 installed 
    Factory Toyota Front main seal replacement $50 Installed "if done at time of waterpump/TB"
    Factory Toyota Cam seals $60 "if done at time of water pump/timing belt/valve covers"
    New factory Toyota valve cover gaskets add $125
    New OEM Toyota engine mounts $100
    New Denso Front and rear 02 sensors $175 "highly recommended" 
     
    Clutch 
    We reuse your original 3.0 Clutch/flywheel standard, they hold up fine to the 3.4, but the 3.4 clutch is larger/stronger if you want to upgrade now is the time. 
    3.4 swap Toyota/Aisin OEM clutch kit $385 with new flywheel
     
    Cooling
    We reuse your original 3.0 Radiator as long as its in good shape, if not plan on a going new. 
    New plastic aluminum radiator $150 "plastic tanks"
    New All aluminum HD Radiator $275 "best cooling one we have seen and proven reliable"
    New HD all copper radiator $275 "factory replacement"
    New Rad Shroud $75 "often customers have broken or missing fan shrouds"
    New late model fan blade $75 "we use late model 3.0 fan blades without the ring"
     
    Hood Clearance 
    The 3.4 makes contact with the hood and clearance is needed. 88 trucks and 88-89 4unners will need a scoop or body lift. 89-95 trucks and 90-95 4runners will need a body lift or hood scoop 90% of the time, 10% of the time we can just cut the center supports out from the underside of the hood. If you already have a body lift than your good to go. 
    1 inch body lift installed $250 for trucks and $300 for 4runners. 
    Hood scoop $150
     
     
    Security 
    Protect your investment from thieves by having a hidden kill switch added. This small toggle switch in a hidden location can be flipped to disable your vehicle insuring no one can start it without knowing its location. Cost $100
     
    *Additional prices may apply if your vehicle has excessive aftermarket wiring, stereos, winch, lights, alarms ect...
    *88 3.0 Trucks and 88-89 3.0 4runners add $75 for engine mounts
     
    Let me know if you have any other questions, thanks.
    Cliff Vann cliff@toyonlyswaps.com 541-895-2020

    Generator noise levels.

    in Electrical

    Posted

    On 12/5/2016 at 9:16 AM, Derek up North said:

    I came across these 2 pages that might help if you're trying to buy the quietest generator. It's sometimes hard to track down Db levels.

    http://www.chainsawjournal.com/quietest-generator/

    http://www.chainsawjournal.com/whats-the-best-2000-watt-generator/

    Please, let's save any debate on whether any generator noise is acceptable and that we should all be only using solar for another thread.

    A LOUD generator does have its place. Say you are boondocking in a nice secluded place and some buthead comes and decides to park 30 feet away. That's when you pull out and fire up your harbor freight 800 watt and aim the exhaust at your new neighbor!

    Picked up a spare igniter on ebay for $8.50

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    If you have a V6 and want a spare igniter, this guy has 6 of them. I gambled and got it today, put it in to try...fired right up. Since they want $480 for a new OEM one, I figured it was worth it to have a spare for when or if I get the dreaded "no spark" problem. At least I can put the spare in to cross the igniter off the list! My igniter # is 98621-30010, but it is replaced by 89621-12010. This is the ebay seller....

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Lexus-OEM-Factory-Igniter-Ignition-Module-Computer-89621-12010-/172393911486?hash=item28237a54be:g:hscAAOSwgZ1XvKiV&vxp=mtr

    Fall Mid-West Toyota RV Rally will be Oct. 6-9, 2016 in Illinois

    in Rallies & Toy Ins

    Posted

    On 10/3/2016 at 7:52 AM, Totem said:

    I always had excellent times at Dennis's rallies. Unfortunately for me any way you slice it and I mean any way its 6 + hours to these locations. I live in south central michigan 10 miles from the turnpike also...so that flunks the 5 hour sniff test for me.

    Add in Chicago traffic jams, crime risk, and severe turnpike tax cost of my dual rear wheels its just not gonna happen for me. I would reckon this would also be DOA trip to most folks anywhere in Michigan or Ohio, so for me I will continue to monitor for a closer venue for a rally as I am no where near retire age. If I move soon - West - that could change things. I'm much more agreeable with traveling through Illinois now that my CHL permit is recognized and honored there in my vehicle also thanks to the courts.

     

    Same for me in Durango CO...closest rally is Quartzite...in the desert in January. Dont know what the draw is for that place. Waiting for one by Grand Canyon or Arches NP...at least there is stuff to see there!

    Removing the Fresh Water Tank

    in Coach ApplianceTech Issues

    Posted

    51 minutes ago, linda s said:

    Come again? We have real plumbing vents in our RV's just like a house. No cheater vents anywhere on my rig

    Linda S

    Linda....my black and gray tanks have vents that go up through the roof...under my kitchen sink, after the P-trap there is a air admittance valve...its purpose is to prevent draining water from siphoning the water from the traps.

    Contemplating Solar

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by RVdaytrader

    14 minutes ago, markwilliam1 said:

    But still requires you to be in the full sun Right? How do you handle the heat from the sun inside the camper? Maybe this isn't a Summer thing?? As always Thanks for the reply Linda:-):-)

    Get a portable suitcase panel with 30' of 10-2 wire...park in the shade with panel in the sun....oops, I see u are not interested in portable...why not, it only takes about 2 minutes to set it up.

    Homemade window awning

    in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!

    Posted

    Thought I would like some window awnings for my dinette and sofa windows to keep the evening sun out. But I looked and saw they would be about $500 for 2 4.5 foot awnings from Carefree thru camping world. Being cheap and having a 27 year old class C, I figured I could make one awning that I could put on whatever side the sun was shining on. Used 1 10 foot length of half inch EMT conduit, 1 yard of outdoor fabric from Walmart, a length of 1/2 inch PVC, 2 elbows, 4 rubber cane tips, 4 J hooks, 10 feet of paracord, 2 tent line tighteners.Cost about $25 for everything.

     Made two sets of side arms so I could adjust the awning higher or lower. It is stable in stiff wind, more so than I thought it would be. You guys with the fancy Sunraders may not want to attach brackets to the outside but for the rest of us this is an option!!
     

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