Nam

This goes where my roof top AC used to be: http://www.trailerrvparts.com/14-X-14-Black-Lid-Powered-Roof-Vent_p_109.html

I don't doubt the 3M 5200's ability to keep water out but it's non UV tolerance and if it's hard, would it crack on these RV's movement? I think 3M 5200 is great for strong bond that's out of the sun's sign I ordered a tube of Sikaflex-221 just to try out. Proflex tends to harden over the time too otherwise it seems to work great and cheap as well. From what I researched, Winnebago uses NF-311 (NuFlex 311) on some of the newer RV exterior caulking. I ordered 2 tubes just to try out as well. They are only $5.50/tube from trailerrvparts.com For roof seal, I used Dyco 20/20 but it seem to get hardener over the time too. Time for me to try out some Dicor stuff and see what happens

Do you know if 3M 5200 remains soft and flexible afterward?

I've tried Proflex and it's not as flexible as the original caulk from Winnebago. Has anyone tried Sikaflex 221?

Welcome to the site and congratulations on your purchase. I picked up a 1990 Itasca as well and have been very happy with it ever since. Keep up with the maintenance and little thing here and there, you've got yourself a really nice motorhome for a bargain. Did the previous owner replace the coach door lock on yours?

I would rather pay a little more for what I wanted. The premium price paid can be quickly forgotten but the "problematic" of a low priced RV can be a pain for the rest of your ownership. With some patience and the willingness to travel plus some time invested, you will find a decent one. I have passed on some nice ones for under $10K here in Calif.

I am with you, jdemaris on the use of Gen set on camp grounds. I don't know what's the reasons behind staying inside an RV with the AC on when going camping all day long...I may well just stay home. For this reason, I actually removed the roof top AC on mine for now. I occasionally use it as an office in summer but that's when I plug in and AC could come handy.

No, I copied the noise specs. from yahoo auto website. I only have the Onan 2.8 and Honda EU2000i. No Yamaha. Well I have a big Coleman 6500 contractor generator...very heavy and noisy...only good for construction job site.

I was checking out the Boliy generator too...looks interesting but for now I am sticking wiith the Honda http://www.boliyguy.com/boliy_specifications.html Not sure if I trust the noise spec.

Here is my weight in on ext. gen v.s. internal gen: I went thru the trouble of installing a used Onan 2.8 with 82 hrs. on my previous Toy home. Worked great and convenience but it turned the whole house into a message chair...well not all that bad but it's noisy and vibrating while running quite a bit. On my '90 Itasca, I decided to try the external setup. Just picked up the Honda eu2000i and I do plan to install a slide out tray where I can pull it out and run it while parked only. The Honda is a lot quiter than the Onan even at full load. The Onan has remote starting SW while the I have to pull start the Honda (the Honda can be remote started for $800 ough!). The Onan can be ran while driving, the Honda cannot. When the coach battery is drained, I cannot start the Onan, same case when fuel tank is 1/4 or less. The Honda can be started at anytime by pulling . The Onan weight twice as much as the Honda but it can run most roof top AC. The Honda can't...well depends but most of the time it won't run roof top AC Cost wise, the Honda is 1/3 of Onan when new but on the used market, they both cost about the same...go figure. However, the Onan involves installation cost, the Honda is plug-n-play. Here is the noise level I found on a yahoo auto website: Noise at full load: Generator Model 10ft 23ft 50ft --------------- ----- ----- ----- National Park Noise Limit 74 db 67 db 60 db Honda EU-3000 (full load) 66 db 59 db 52 db Onan MicroLite 2800 Gas / 2500 LP (full load) 72 db 65 db 58 db Onan MicroQuiet 4000 Gas / 3600 LP (full load) 70 db 63 db 56 db Yamaha 2800i (full load) 65 db Honda EU-2000 (full load) 59 db Yamaha 3000 is (full load) 57 db Noise at reduced load: Onan MicroLite 2800 Gas / 2500 LP (1/2 load) 70 db 63 db 56 db Onan MicroQuiet 4000 Gas / 3600 LP (1/2 load) 66 db 59 db 52 db Generac 40G (1/2 load) 69 db Honda EU-3000 (no load) 56 db 49 db 42 db Yamaha 2800i (1/4 load) 57 db Honda EU-2000 (1/4 load) 53 db Yamaha 3000 is (1/4 load) 51 db The noise levels of the Yamaha 3000is setup using a Radio Shack dB meter: Position No Load Microwave and A/C on -------- ------- -------------------- Inside LD (standing by cab) 54 db 60 db Standing next to Gen 67 db 71 db 10 ft 61 db 67 db 20 ft 57 db 60 db

One problem I see with starting the gen with the truck's battery is the length of the huge DC cable running from the CAB to the Gen. This cable is pretty expensive and if one does not use the right size, voltage drop will afect the ability to start the gen. Also, it may heat up and cause further damages

On the 1990 Warriors, the optional genset is connected to the coach battery

Out of all solutions, I like John MC's the best since it's very cheap and easy to carry out. The down side is when the LED goes out, there is no way to tell but LED is supposed to last longer than we do for signal uses so that may not be a problem. The old mechanical flashers relies on the current draw to heat up a little springy contacts. When there is enough current to heat it up, it becomes soft and releases the contact to turn of the lights, when it cools down again, it will make contact again thus to make flashing...with LED, I don't think it will heat up at all, no flashing. I also enjoy the ticking sounds too....it's telling me that I have my signal on. I have seen resistor on LED to increase load...pointless for what we need. But since the signal lights are not being used often and we only use it when the vehicle is running so power consumption isn't an issue in my opinion. Nam

Thanks for the help. I did not think there were a real short since the fuse does not blow right away and hooking up the AMP meter showing 9.6A load. I went and removed all the bulbs I could, including all top clearance lights and tail lights. What's left are instrument lights, front marker lights, and two small rear marker lights (the lower ones). Current draw drops to 1.6A so I am think the sort is either somewhere in the light bulbs or inside one of those rusty lights. I will put LEDs on wherever I can and clean out the rest to reinstall lights and monitor the current draw. However, I think the circuit will be ok Nam '90 Itasca

Hi John, Thanks for the info. I may just leave the turn signal alone for now. It seems to work okay. I am more concern about the tail lights since the fuse keeps on blowing

Battery power furnace? I spent a cold night in San Francisco right under the Golden Gate Bridge with all the old interior light bulbs and had the furnace on all night without draining out the battery so I don't think it's too bad. Just the blower/motor that sucks electricity, the heat is on propane. Now with more LED interior lights, I think the battery may last one more day will see

With the effort to reduce power consumption, I am think about this for dual element tail/brake lights (1157). What do you think? any better suggestion? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-13-LED-1157-BAY15D-Car-SMD-White-Tail-Brake-Light-Bulb-N98B-/380559613972?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item589b1ee014 Worst case I could solder two of those 36-SMD LEDs I used for interior in place since I have about 6 extra

In my case, I do not have any other choices but soldering the wires in place of the 1141's sockets since these L.E.Ds did not come with the right sockets; however, I'd solder them anyway...a little more reliable in my opinion and there are plugs so in case these lights goes out, replacing is plug-n-play I did run into another electrical problem last weekend when i noticed that the 15A fuse for tail, instrumental, and marker/clearance lights keeps on blowing out after about 5 minutes of turning on the lights. Hooking up the AMP meter showing current drawing of 9.6A through the fuse. I don't know why the fuse blows when it's only 2/3 of rated load. Any idea? I can't drive the Toy home anywhere since there is no tail lights for time being

You are right. I soldered these new LED wafers in, left the original lense cover in place and they work perfectly. Color temp: same as the old 1141, may be just a little cooler Heat: just barely warm to touch...not much Light output: very comparable to the old 1141. In fact, without looking at the lights, it's hard to tell these are LED Power consumption: 3.6W compared to 1141's 19W Conclusion: way to to! thanks everyone for sugggesting this

Check Yotatech forums. Most Toy owners are not too hot for more power since we like to take out time on the open road What I know if it's a lot more cost effective to buy the entire donor car since every thing will match and you will need lots of little things from it

Deep cycle battery from Costco has only 1 year free replacement. Their starting batteries are far superior compared to Autozone/Oreily...cheaper, longer warranty, better quality too. My CR-V battery from Costco lasted for 8 years. I don't know about Walmart's deep cycle battery. I am on the market for a deep cycle for my '90 Itasca, any recommendation? Thanks

Thank you all, I'll give it a try when the product arrives. I was thinking of cutting the area where the LEDs occupy but will try with it first and see.

Thanks Waiter, I just order two of these! Question: what do you do with the lense covers? mine one the Itasca are "very frosted" and will block lots of light. I have been looking for clear ones without luck. Or I may get rid of these lense cover but don't want to expose bare LED with the reflector and other electrical stuff. Advise please.

I thought I would be the youngest toy home owner but someone beat me by 4 33 Elec. Engr./Contractor living in sunny SF Bay Areas Calif. with a much younger wife and a son just turned 1 yr old. After two tent camping trips in 102 degree in Fresno and one in 22 degree in Sequoia NP, a Toy home appeared on my shopping list. Ended up with 1990 Itasca and can't be more please with it. Besides all my duties as a husband/father, I manage to squeeze in photography as my seasonal hobby... I am somewhat mech./elec./plumb. inclided.. one thing I don't have is time but time will give time right? Happy rving!

Totem: you mind sharing where you got them from? Thanks