dayoff53

Wayne, that looks like a great place! For those who want to see a map, this link to Google Maps should take you there. The best time for me would be in June, 2011 - I can take off Saturday afternoon, June 18 and probably pull into the campground sometime Monday, June 20. I could stay until about Saturday morning, June 25. If those dates don't work, I could change it up, but I need to firm up my vacation calendar at least six (6) months in advance because of my work schedule, so if anyone would like different dates, some pretty quick discussion on the subject would be to my benefit. Thank you for volunteering to take the lead on planning!

I think that would be great! My June dates would work good for me - I have 8 days(June 19 - 26, 2011). Vancouver Island is wonderful - I have only been there once 2 years ago and would love to see more of it - but all of BC would be new to me and I'm up for anything.

Hi, fellow northwesterners! My lovely bride and I are new to the Toy box scene, having had ours for 15 days and taken it on one short trip, but I'm interested in getting together with others in the Great NW. My wife and I would love to come, and could probably bring along my brother and his wife who have had their Toy box for about 6 weeks. We all live in the Boise area, but can travel anywhere in the NW - we love the Oregon coast and try to get over there once a year, but are willing to go anywhere. Did the planned get-together last May actually happen? Any pictures? It seems what is needed is someone to take the bull by the horns - pick a date and place and let the rest of us know. My wife can be available practically any time, but I'm still tied to a job and my current availability for 2011 is as follows: March 24 - 27, April 22 - 26, May 14 - 17, June 19 - 26, July 22 -25, and August 27 -31 Other than those dates, we are available weekends only, which means we couldn't get too far from Boise. My brother has the opposite problem of mine - he works for himself and can generally take off any time, but his wife has to schedule with her employer. I figure, if we are going to do this, it will need to be pretty well set 3 or 4 months in advance - whose going to get this planned?

Thank you! I am becoming more confident that a portable GPS device will work for me, at least in the short run. I want a camera system sometime and, when I get around to that, I will again look into the possibility of getting in-dash GPS as part of the system.

I've been trying to decide on a personalized plate for the Warrior. My favorite was IAMLOST, but my lovely bride vetoed it...

Hey, how about using an iPad for a nav system? It's Apple, so I don't know too much about it, but it has a big, clear touch screen. The 3G iPad should be ready to go and you can get this dongle for the WiFi version. If you could find someplace to put this where you could see it and it wasn't too much in the way, it sure would give a visible display!

Nice looking rig! Other than the wind wings, the cab looks pretty much the same as my '92 Warrior based on a '91 truck.

I'm in Boise - no snow here, but it has been raining pretty good the last couple days. Unfortunately, I found water dripping in around my roof A/C - I got a tarp over it temporarily, but I have to get that fixed this week. Yes, I understand all the advantages of Apple's closed system - and don't disagree with them - but I've been playing with PCs since ... well, for a very long time and I'm just more comfortable with them. I've used several flavors of Linux, but generally come back to Windows (Win7 is a superb operating system, IMHO). The main reason I will probably go with Android is that I have not been very satisfied with AT&T's coverage or customer service (though it has been quite a few years since I used them). As you know, in the west you can get a long way from civilization and I find that Verizon's coverage is a lot better when you get in the hinterlands. Can you get an external GPS antenna for an iPhone or Android phone and mount it on the roof? I don't know enough about these toys to have any idea what kind of accessories are available.

Those switches look great! What year is your Toyota?

I like the look of that and have been seriously considering that kind of unit. But, since I also want GPS, I'm thinking about a similar unit that includes GPS, like the Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT (available for less on eBay) or the Fujitsu Ten Eclipse AVN726E (also available on eBay). Both of these are very highly rated. Does anybody have any experience with either of these?

Okay, I have to admit to being an anti-Apple sort of geek. I have owned an iPod Touch and I bought a MacBook for my wife - but I don't like Apple's philosophy of maintaining complete control of everything associated with their gadgets and I really don't like them limiting their cell phone service to AT&T. So, because of personal biases, I'm unlikely to go with an iPhone. Nonetheless, I have to admit the iPhone and iPod Touch are pretty amazing toys, as is the iPad. I very well may go with a fancy Android phone - my current cell contract is up in February and I'm looking to upgrade to one of the biggest touch screen units. So, do you have any complaints about the GPS reception with the unit in your window or in the cup holder? I'm afraid that the cab-over will block the satellite signals. Also, I have a '92 Warrior and know that my cab-over extends about 6" farther to the front than my brother's '90 SeaBreeze 900 - what unit do you have?

Hi! The number one improvement I want to make to my 1992 Winnebago Warrior WT321RL is a GPS navigation system. My brother is about to install an Eclipse AVN726E in his - he got a good deal used on eBay and has had this model unit in another rig. The price scares me - he got a great deal at $600 including backup camera and satellite radio, but the wiring is a mess and will have to be replaced - installation will be a couple hundred at least - would cost $500 or more at a stereo shop. New, this system, installed, would be $2500 or more. This is outside my price range. I am thinking about just using a Garmin or similar, but am concerned that the overhanging sleeping compartment will interfere with satellite reception. What in-dash units are folks using and what is your experience? Cost? Do you have a backup camera? Is it worth it? What about portable units? Are you getting good reception? Can 60-year-old eyes see the little screen? Hoping for a bunch of responses here to help me make a decision...

1) In the 21' size, there were two models - the WT321RB and the WT321RL. The RB had a standard dinette that converted into a bed - it is narrower but longer than the couch bed and shorter and much narrower than the cab-over bed. The RL had an "L" shaped dinette that did not make into a bed - designed to sleep 3 or 4 instead of 5. The dinette that makes into a bed uses the table as part of the platform and the seat cushions become the mattress. The couch on both models pulls out and lays flat to make into a bed very quickly and easily. 2) Only one house battery. It is accessible from the outside through a locking door. On the RB, the door is aft of the coach door; on the RL, the coach door is moved back a bit and the house battery is located in front of the coach door. 3) I think Firstone Air Springs were standard. If you mean air bag supplemental restraint system, I don't think they were available at all. BTW, why '90 through '92? They made the same unit through the '93 model year. So far as I know, there were no significant changes in the years '91 - '93. I haven't looked into the '90 - though I know the cab was virtually identical (the '90 still had wind wings; the '92 did not - don't know about the '91). I am the "new" owner of a 1992 Winnebago Warrior WT321RL, which was built by Winnebago in July, 1991 on a 1991 model Toyota truck cab and chassis. My brother is the "new" owner of a 1990 SeaBreeze 900 which was built in May, 1990 on a 1990 model Toyota cab and chassis. They are very similar, despite being made 2500 miles apart by different manufacturers. While I like the Warrior better (mostly because it is MINE), I could point out comparative advantages and disadvantages of both, so if I were shopping, I don't think I would limit myself to a particular brand. Condition is paramount. Age, miles, brand... everything else is secondary. Have fun shopping and good luck!

If you've seen any of my other posts, you know that we got the rig and, after one trip of about 350 miles, we love it. I thought I would post some pix of it taken right after we got it home.

Hi! Recently, I uploaded a scan of the original window sticker for my 1992 Winnebago Warrior WT321RL. Now, my brother has found the original window sticker for his 1990 SeaBreeze 900, so I though I would post it as well.

Here is a site that gives some basic information about the differences between types of batteries and tells why you want a deep cycle battery as your "house" battery. Another site has this information: A car's battery is designed to provide a very large amount of current for a short period of time. This surge of current is needed to turn the engine over during starting. Once the engine starts, the alternator provides all the power that the car needs, so a car battery may go through its entire life without ever being drained more than 20 percent of its total capacity. Used in this way, a car battery can last a number of years. To achieve a large amount of current, a car battery uses thin plates in order to increase its surface area. A deep cycle battery is designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. A deep cycle battery can provide a surge when needed, but nothing like the surge a car battery can. A deep cycle battery is also designed to be deeply discharged over and over again (something that would ruin a car battery very quickly). To accomplish this, a deep cycle battery uses thicker plates. A car battery typically has two ratings: CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) - The number of amps that the battery can produce at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) for 30 seconds RC (Reserve Capacity) - The number of minutes that the battery can deliver 25 amps while keeping its voltage above 10.5 volts Typically, a deep cycle battery will have two or three times the RC of a car battery, but will deliver one-half or three-quarters the CCAs. In addition, a deep cycle battery can withstand several hundred total discharge/recharge cycles, while a car battery is not designed to be totally discharged. I hope all that helps.

Sounds like you have the 321RB or, more precisely, the WT321RB. The "3" was the Warrior or "Micro" series; the 21 was the length and the "RB" meant Rear Bath. The "RL" is also a rear bath and I think the "L" meant something like "Lounge". It sleeps fewer, because it has only the cab-over bed and the sofa (same one as yours, I think). Your door is clear at the front of the coach, while the "RL" has the door a couple feet farther back (you can see in the picture that I use as my avatar). My battery is in front of the door and I don't find any easy way to expand the battery storage in that location, which is why I man considering building a new box for the batteries. You are correct that the battery box must not be vented inside the trailer, which is why I intend to build a sealed box vented and accessible only from the outside. As to deep cycle batteries not lasting as long as "regular" ones, that is very much contrary to my understanding, though I admit to not being an expert. I understand that deep cycle batteries are specifically designed to discharge completely or nearly so and recharge repeatedly with minimal loss of storage capacity. "Regular" batteries, on the other hand, are specifically designed to have maximum power when fully charged, but not to be significantly discharged. Therefore, when you run the regular battery down frequently, it rapidly loses its ability to hold a charge. Before I took a welder's advice, I would probably consult a person (or online resource) with more battery expertise. When you get your battery expansion done, I'd sure like to see how you accomplish it!

Hi! Which '92 Warrior do you have? We have a "new" '92 Warrior 321RL, but there seem to be more people who have the 321RB. Near as I can tell, the primary distinction is that the RB has a dinette that makes into a bed, while the RL has a smaller "L" shaped dinette seat that does not make into a bed and the coach door is moved back nearly 2 feet. On the RL, there is (or was when new) a swivel chair bolted to the floor in front of the coach door - immediately behind the passenger seat of the cab. We have the same issue as you - where to put a second battery. Actually, I think we have decided to add a pair of six-volt batteries. Since batteries need to be vented to the outside and sealed from the interior, my thought is to remove the swivel seat and build some sort of a box in its place with an access door on the side of the coach just in front of the door. I'm thinking of cutting a piece of a used water tank with appropriate dimensions - going to an RV junk yard on Saturday to look for tanks. Once I get that all done, I will probably either find or have built a cabinet to go over it to dress up the inside of the coach - maybe with some extra storage above the battery compartment for possible later addition of an inverter - and provide a seat and/or foot rest for the couch. If I get this done (over the winter), I'll post pix. Meanwhile, let me know what you end up with for second battery storage!

Looks like you have the WT321RB and we have the WT321RL. Other than that, I bet there is not much difference. Our cab/chassis was built by Toyota in May, 1991 and is a 1991 model vehicle. The coach was built in July, 1991 as a 1992 model motorhome - you will note the sticker identifies it as a 1992. I want to meet up with one of the RB's sometime to compare notes...

Nope, not a leak issue. There has been a very slight leak in the cab-over, but it was all professionally repaired - I have receipts and pictures. This is just a couple of places where there has been condensation causing the "wall paper" to wrinkle a tiny bit on the corner of a wall panel. You have to look hard to even find it.

As you noted in the manual, the spare tire was optional on the Warrior - and ours doesn't have that option. We are the third owners and neither of the prior owners had a spare. The most recent owner added a receiver hitch so that he could mount a bike rack on it - not for towing. I am considering buying a spare tire mount for the receiver hitch. The only one I have found is a Curtis C3106 (or CU-3106) - about the best price I have found is just under $100 with free shipping here. Of course, I would then need to buy a rim for the spare tire. For that, the best price I have found is about $91 with shipping here (available in silver or white). I have a tire that will work, but it is still going to cost $200 to get it mounted on the vehicle. Given that Winnebago didn't think a spare was necessary (they said to remove the flat if it is one of the duals or move one dual to the front if it is a front tire, then limp to the nearest repair facility), I don't know whether I will do this.

I, too, have a '92 Warrior (321RL). Mine looks really sharp in general, but the decals are all cracked - look okay from a distance, but pretty sad up close. Also, there are places on the fiberglas surface that are brighter and shinier, as if there had been big decals or something that have been removed. Anyway, what did you do about your decals when you were rehabbing the surface? What about the decals on the cab hood and doors? Got any pix?

Yeah, it could be much improved if somebody with a good OCR program would convert it to text and illustrations instead of 70 scanned images...

Since I was lucky enough to get a 1992 Warrior 321RL with a complete set of original documents, it was suggested to me that others who weren't so lucky might want a scan of the Operator's Manual. I have scanned it and saved it in .doc, .docx and .pdf formats. Unfortunately, all of them are MUCH too large to attach to a post here. The smallest of the lot is the PDF file, which is still around 20MB - I guess I should have scanned at a lower resolution. Anyway, here is a link to the file in my Google Documents. I left out all blank pages to save scan time and file size. I claim no rights to this document and I see no copyright marks, but I imagine it is still the intellectual property of Winnebago Industries. Use it freely as far as I am concerned.

Thank you! I'm not sure whether I have that or not, but it's always good to have resources! Thanx, too, for confirming that your manual does not have a 7-5. I'll assume the reference to that page was a mistake.