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Stevo

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Everything posted by Stevo

  1. Stevo
    I wonder if that arc in the roof is the way all Sunraders are supposed to be even if they did not come with roof AC? Just asking because I think I'm going to build rafters out of hardwood where I'll cut a curve (or arc) into the top edge of the rafter where it will be epoxied to the ceiling. Between the new "rafters" running right to left and some wood stringers running fore and aft I should end up with a nice stiff roof.
  2. Stevo
    Are all the Sunrader ceilings supposed to have an arc or crown in them? And what I mean by an arc or crown is that the highest point is in the center of the roof and then the roof slopes down a little as you approach the outer right and left edges.
  3. Stevo
    I had no illusions as to what i was getting into and I agree that it is a HUGE project. Yikes! I hope your kids weren't playing around the truck the day you had the cab suspended in mid-air Like that! =;^P Where did you get the curved metal for the ceiling? Did you bend it yourself?
  4. Stevo
    I looked at the window frames a lot closer yesterday and they are in much better shape than I originally thought. I wish they weren't black but I have decided to live with that color instead of risking a possible peeling mess later. I'm still going to pull them so they will be out of the way while doing the body work and then I'll clean them up and wax them like WME suggested. I'm thinking about glassing a small lip above each window to keep the rain away from the top seal of the window. Is butyl tape still the best way to seal the windows? I'm like epoxy them in permanently and never have to worry about leaks like Steve did but then it would be a major issue later if I had to deal with a broken window.
  5. Stevo
    Yeah but the only real test would be many months or years in the sun.
  6. Stevo
    Hmmm, according to this search there are lots of articles on how easy it is to paint anodized aluminum. https://startpage.com/do/search?query=how+to+paint+anodized+aluminum%3F&cat=web&pl=chrome&language=english Many of the articles claim anodized aluminum is the perfect substrate for paint to because its neutral. It seems that the key is to hit it with a self etching primer first. WME: why do you say it can't be done by anyone? Has that been your experience? I'd probably do wax if they were in good condition but they are all scratched up and funky looking. Also, I think I want to lose the dark color for s light color so the frames will stay cooler in the hot tropical sun. Has anyone take apart their motorhome windows? I'm wondering if its possible to easily separate the glass from the frames?
  7. Stevo
    Based on the older thread about this subject it looks like that Hypervent stuff didn't work. Good to know. I'll look at the Cobra Vent next time I'm at Home Depot. I wonder if its the same thing? Thanks everyone.
  8. Stevo
    Did anyone come up with a cheap solution that doesn't take away much headroom from the overcab area yet?
  9. Stevo
    Thanks everyone! That was something I've been wondering about for a while and now I know. Totem - Denying them to perform a warrantless search can work sometimes but sadly most cops nowadays have no clue what the heck the Constitution is and don't care (never mind that they swore an oath to uphold it). In the rare event you encounter an Oathkeeper cop it would work. On the other hand, an Oathkeeper cop wouldn't even ask to do a warrantless search anyway.
  10. Stevo
    Its been a long time but what exactly did you end up using for the insulation that was so cheap at only $7 per sheet?
  11. Stevo
    What did you end up using to insulate the inside of your Sunrader?
  12. Stevo
    I need to remove the windows from my 18' Sunrader and reseal the openings and while they are out I'd like to take the frames apart and clean them up so they look like new. I'd like to find some super-duper paint that goes over aluminum that is proven to NOT turn into a paint-peeling mess down the road after the suns been cooking them. Has anyone done that? Also, in each window there is square plastic tab that needs to be replaced. Can I buy replacements for those tabs? Thanks
  13. Stevo
    I've been meaning to get back here and THANK all of you for patiently answering my dumb questions because I successfully completed the 1/2 ton to 1 ton and vice versa axle swap last month (finally!) and sold the donor Sunrader the first day my ad came out. I had to get some different brackets fabricated because the lower mounts for my shocks wouldn't fit but those only cost me $55. Work proceeds because I just gutted the interior and will now deal with a little rust on the body which will require me to pull and then re-install the windshield and then I'll be glassing in solid all the holes where stuff used to be in the shell and start rebuilding the interior. THANKS AGAIN!
  14. Stevo
    Besides being able to use the same wheels that are on the back for front spare tires, are there any other advantages to having 1 ton front wheels?
  15. Stevo
    I'm concerned about mold growing underneath the mattress in the over-cab area. There is this stuff http://www.hyperventmarine.com/index.html at $12 a linear foot but I was wondering if anyone has found a less expensive alternative? Thanks
  16. Stevo
    Do open-container laws apply for having opened bottles of booze in a motorhome fridge like they do in a regular passenger vehicle? Thanks!
  17. Stevo
    Dang, sorry I missed this before. I forgot that Steve kept his so he can use his truck for other stuff. Steve might be a good one to ask your question though. If you haven't figured it out yet I would ask at www.expeditionportal.com forum because there are lots of humans there who've done some pretty amazing work on all kinds of rigs. I found out they sell 3M5200 at Home Depot but I decided I'm going to epoxy my rafters in place. Where did you get the curved metal you used for your ceiling joists? Did you bend it yourself? Where are you with your project now?
  18. Stevo
    Patrick - Did you follow the de-smog directions at the Yotatech forum? I'm probably going to do that too but I might keep the Aisan carb. Sorry if you already mentioned it, but did you do the de-smog and install of the new Weber at the same time?
  19. Stevo
    How far are you along now? In case you haven't removed the cabinets, a small sledge hammer and wonder bar do the job pretty darn fast. Did you see the "put the sawzall down" thread by Steve who put his Sunrader house on another Toyota truck?
  20. Stevo
    Wow, I've never seen a Sunrader motorhome with a big swing-up back door like that! Must be rare, eh?
  21. Stevo
    I upgraded the 1/2 ton axle on my 18' Sunrader to the 1 ton but spoke to someone recently who has owned a 4x4 Sunrader since 85 (bought it new) and still has the 1/2 ton rear axle on it. His motorhome has 250,000 miles on it now and he said that he maintains the rear axle regularly and always keeps 10 PSI less air in the outer wheels.
  22. Stevo
    Just curious for the sake of comparison because my Sunrader is also an 18'er but has the 22R with 5 speed but I've hardly driven it since the day I bought it earlier this year because I've been rebuilding it.
  23. Stevo
    Hi Karin, I'm not sure if you deleted it yourself but whatever you tried to post here is gone.
  24. Stevo
    Steve, is your 18' Sunrader a 4 spd or 5 spd manual or an automatic?
  25. Stevo
    Hah hah, let me clarify the "cheapskate" thing... I'm trying to temper my perfectionist side as I age which is getting easier the longer I've been away from the custom cabinet business...BUT...I don't do stuff half-behind either. So "cheapskate" for me means finding alternatives that are simpler, work better and last longer and are hopefully less expensive. For example, I ruled out the idea of putting some kind of bedliner goop over Dynamat because all the money and time would be wasted if the Dynamat pulled away from the metal floor and/or the bedliner goop stopped adhering to the Dynamat. Plus, I'm concerned that the end result would look crappy with seams of Dynamat showing through, etc. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the rubber molded mat here for about $140 to my door: http://www.auto-interior.com/toyota8.htm plus another $54 for their sound deadening called "mass backing. I get into my CHEAPSKATE mode wondering if there is a cheaper and equally effective way to deaden the sound than spending the $54 extra on their mass backing? Any ideas? I haven't priced Dynamat yet but I know its pricey and would probably cost more than $54.
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