BobBeery

Is a rear sway bar normal or unusual? I want to replace bushings on front and rear sway bars. I can find listings on sites for front link kits with bushings. But I can't find any for the rear which has a completely different link than the front. Can anybody give me a source and part number for the rear bushings and link bushings? While I am here I could also use a source and part number for leaf spring bushings.

There are many indoor only units in the $9-15 range but you have to open the fridge to read them. The wireless indoor/outdoor units you do not have to open the fridge, and can also put the outdoor unit outdoors at your campsite when you are wiling to do without the fridge temp. I like that for when I wake up. These wireless units go $15-40 or even more depending on extra features. I got the simplest cheapest one I could find--indoor temp, outdoor temp, and time of day. I got it at Ace hardware for $15.99.

Previous owner took out a small Dometic and put in a big(6.2 cu ft) Norcold 611 with electronic controls, a thermistor, and automatic switching between A/C and propane. It always worked perfectly on A/C but the propane was failing inconsistently. Sometimes it would start working but stop after 4 or 8 or 3 or 36 hours. Usually it would light but only until the heat sensor (no thermocouple in this one) timed out then the solenoid on the gas valve would close. Maybe 15 or 20 seconds. Finally I found a man who is a certifies repair tech for both Norcold and Dometic. It wasn't the fridge at all!! The propane pressure was way off. Spec is 11 inches. Mine was at 16. This caused too small a flame even on the highest setting so the heat sensor did not activate. My Warrior has a built-in propane tank and the regulator does not resemble the one at the end of a hose for a BBQ tank. It is, however, adjustable so he turned it down to spec and we tried it. The flame was about double in size and double in the noise it made. It stayed lit. Then he cautioned me that while the outside vent for incoming air was proper size for the long gone small Dometic, it was too small for the larger Norcold. He said the elegant fix would be to change over to a proper size vent, but suggested that I add a thermostatically controlled fan to move more air up the coils. (Valterra sells one for about $45.) Then he warned me when I am camped to not put a table in front of the lower vent or to otherwise block it. I have since tried it in all circumstances, such as the thermistor shutting it off, then automatically re-igniting, or switching both ways between propane and A/C. staying lit at 55mph. It works perfectly. He charged me $40 and I tipped him another $10.

I put a red-liquid-in-a-glass-tube thermometer in my fridge but the reading seemed too high. But two weeks ago I had bought a wireless indoor/outdoor thermometer for my house that was supposed to transmit up to 200 feet, so I tried putting the outdoor sensor in the fridge and the indoor unit on the dinette less than three feet away. It worked, and the reading seemed sensible. Next day I tried leaving the indoor unit in the usual spot in my house and put the outdoor unit in the fridge, about thirty feet away.It still worked. I had been wanting to get one of these thermometers for my Warrior anyway, now I think I will. I can have the unit in the fridge when driving, and someplace outside when camped.

My Norcold fridge is also propane/A/C (but not DC) with automatic controls and automatic switching. The installation manual says it requires between 15.4v(max) and 10.5v (min) to operate correctly. It says to wire it with #18 wire and a 6 amp fuse. A house battery can be way down, almost dead, and still make 10.5v.

Sorry Squirrel, I just read your first post wrong so gave you wrong info. My fault. Hope you can get this figured out, then post it for the rest of us. Bob

If your dinette is on the side, the dinette tabletop fits across from one seat to the other. Just pull the tabletop off the steel post, pull the post out of the socket and store the post somewhere. Put the dinette top across, then use the two cushions from the seat backs to fill between the two seats. Works fine in my Toy for an over 200 lb guest. If your dinette is across the back there is also a way to use that but I don't know it.

On my 94 Warrior the valve is already max even with 15-20 lbs of air. I thought it was frozen but tried lowering the force arm and the valve moved freely. As I raised it back up it stopped moving just as I got back to original position. I note that my force arm is not straight. There is a bend in it about three inches from the proportioning valve. The bend causes the valve to behave the same as wiring the force arm to the frame. I don't know if the vehicle came with the arm bent or straight. It is possible that either Winnebago or a previous owner put in that bend. Anyway, I decided that wiring up the arm would accomplish nothing and just re-connected it.

Suggest you check the steering damper (it looks like a shock mounted crosswise in the steering), bushings in the rear springs, and all the rubber parts on the two sway bars.

My 94 Winnebago has a small circuit breaker in the battery compartment. It connects to the POS of the battery. If this is not connected or is tripped I get the same symptoms. Have a look.

My 94 Warrior has the 3T airbags shown at the bottom of Linda's post. When I raise the air pressure in them from 10 to 85 lbs the rig lifts between 3/4 inch to an inch at the rear axle, which would be at the rear bumper an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half.

Also check for cold air blasting in from a vent on the right wall of the cab just ahead of the passenger door and below the dash--about shin high. This vent will always be open to the outside and is NOT connected to the cab heat. I taped scrap cardboard over it. Also the inside door release handles usually blast outside air into the cab. I jammed facial tissue in, but every time I open the door from inside the tissue falls out. There was enough cold air to make it worth my while to replace it every time.

This info is two years old. D&D Salvage & Surplus, 15629 Heise Rd., Charlevoix Michigan 49720. (231) 547-0229. Open mid-May to early October. One barn full of new and used parts and accessories. Must be 10 acres of junk RVs you can pick and pull. They can cut down used awnings to your size. Nothing specifically Toyota. Most RVs have leaking or collapsed roofs. Operated by husband and wife aged mid 70"s who were hoping somebody would buy them out.

Picky point: Decades ago when studying for a ham radio license, I was taught that a transformer can pass DC IF the voltage is not constant, such as cycling between +3v and +15v. It is true that if the voltage is CONSTANT which is usual for DC then a transformer cannot work.

Q1, Yes you should be able to use all the tire valves when the tires are properly mounted. Q2, I don't know, but before you try it check the clearance at the top of the wheel cutout. Warriors have enough clearance there, Dolphins don't, (you have to jack up the frame NOT the axle, let the axle hang down) and I don't know about Sunraders. Also dually lug nuts are tighter that car/pickup lug nuts. Can you get them loose? Can you get them tight enough when you put them back on? Best of luck to you and use that Sunrader a lot.

Thank you Derek.

CitizenX, sorry we seem to have hijacked your post. Is there anything you are needing that we might help with? Derek, pardon my ignorance, but what does DRW stand for? Is it draw weight?

I do not recall any mention of cab & chassis in the 94 manual, nor could I find any when looking just now. Only thing that was there was some info about slide-in campers which does not apply. I too was surprised to see 1994 on the manual. I am third or fourth owner so it may be possible the manual was picked up some time later. Notice the date on the second photo below.

Owner's manual is 1994. I found more specs in a different section on trailer towing. 3VZ-E (V-6) and either trans GCWR with Toyota's towing package is 6900 lbs. Without the towing package GCWR stays at 6900 for manual tranny but drops to 5400 for the automatic. Sounds like the Toyota towing package has to do with cooling the auto tranny. There is also a note saying that if the trailer weight is 1000 lbs or more then trailer brakes are required.

Here's pics of the axle, the Winnebago sheet (VIN matches) and the Toyota owner's manual. In case it is useful I also have original spec sheets for TTT airbags that Winnebago put on this rig.

On mine a previous owner had replaced that battery isolator and when he did he added a fuse in the wire from the alternator. That fuse had blown so I got no charging. I replaced the fuse with a self-resetting circuit breaker and all is well.

I have the specs from Winnebago for my 94 Warrior. it is very similar to a 90 Dolphin that I used to own. Gross vehicle weight rating 6000 lbs. Gross combined weight rating (carried load plus pulled load) 6000 lbs. Gross axle weight rating front 2300 lbs. rear 4400 lbs. Unloaded vehicle weight with full gas tank but empty water and waste and propane tanks 5352 lbs. Net carrying capacity 648 lbs. Weight of people, water, food, bedding, clothes, cooking utensils, TVs and antennas, and propane (but not the empty tank) all count against the 648 lbs. net. I believe my Toy has been officially overloaded every time I drove it, and so are almost all the others on the road. The Toyota owners manual says GVWR is 4600 lbs, Front axle 2150 lbs. Rear 2650 lbs. The higher weight ratings from Winnebago can be accounted for by changes made by Winnebago, mostly the added air bags on the rear leaf springs. Hope this helps.

This site https://www.facebook.com/groups/ToyotaMotorhomeClub/ has a man parting out an 86 Dolphin. Maybe you can get one from him. Look for post by Summer Moon Marie and find the comment by James Kubas.

You might consider a new steering damper, new bushings in the leaf springs, and sway bar bushings and the rubber in the sway bar ends.

Have now seen the rig. Spare tire underneath fits front only. No spare for the rear. Has Yokohama LT195/75 R14 load range D mounted. Do Nissans usually have this size or was it a previous owner type thing? This is different than the usual Toyota tire of 185R14.