Derek up North

Get it weighed and see if switching to single rear wheels will safely hold the weight. (2x1850lbs=3700lbs). But I'd suggest having the axles and bearings inspected to make sure they haven't suffered any damage from the original set-up. If the 'fix' in the Sunline recall was good for the Sunline, I don't see why it wouldn't be good for your Dolphin. Well, you used it! So it worked.

I'm afraid you're not in the clear yet. Your Dolphin (and the SeaBreeze) was built by 'National', so that's what you'll have to enter for 'Make' in your search for the Recall. For sure the '91 Recall covered Dolphins, but I'm not sure if as far back as yours.

I'm used to referring to 'Eyewitness Weather' reports (i.e. I look out the window!) This time of year, there are 3 forecasts to chose from: 'Cold', 'Effing Cold' and 'The dogs will just have to cross their legs'.

I remember reading your comments about performance in the snow. Maybe not a good Snow/Ice tire, but without back to back testing, we can only guess if the other 'Summer' tires would be better or worse. I know I don't have that luxury, but I'm sure Tire Rack is better able to do so. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testingProgram.jsp http://www.tirerack.com/videos/index.jsp?video=84 I should be soooo lucky! BTW, here (Quebec) we don't rely on 'All Season' tires any more. They changed the law couple of years ago and now you'll get a ticket if caught driving between December 15th and March 15th without real Snow/Ice/Winter tires on all wheels.

You're right, that is a big clock. But at least it does other things than tell the time (like cover a hole ). I've always wondered why all these MH left the factory with a HUGE clock installed. When I'm away, I try and not let a clock rule my life. Plus I never use any of the clocks at home (all have flat batteries). I carry a very small 'clock' strapped to my wrist! And let me guess, there are clocks built in to your cab radio, TV, microwave, etc. Too many clocks, especially when we have to change them all for DST.

Trailer tires would be marked 'ST185R14'. They would also be marked 'Trailer Use Only'. I'll assume they are so marked by law and for a reason. I would NOT use them. http://www.discountt...erTireFacts.dos That said, there's a bit of a strange 'situation' with the Kumho Radial 857 (which used to be available in 185R14 Load Range D)). "The Radial 857 is KUMHO's Euro-metric Commercial-sized special purpose tire designed for use on trailers. Radial 857 tires are not intended to be used on cars or light trucks." http://www.tirerack....romCompare1=yes For some unknown reason, Tirerack chooses to list it as a 'Trailer Tire'. However, it does not carry the 'ST' designation on it or the 'Trailer Use Only' marked on it. I have no explanation. But since it appears to be the most expensive option available, I see very little incentive to consider buying a set. Unless I bought a MH with a set already installed. Then I'd keep them! For a new purchase, I'd stick with the 'big names. Hankook RA08, Yokohama Y356 or Continental Vanco 2. http://www.tirerack....romCompare1=yes For my personal needs, I'd chose the RA08 because (at least on www.tirerack.com) they list it as an All Season, whereas the others are listed as 'Summer'. Our Summers only last a couple of weeks, so I'll take all the traction I can get, though I wouldn't expect it to perform too well in snow. For that, you'd have to go with Nokian Hakkapeliitta CS or C2.

"The graphite lube that I used made for speedo cables came in a tube mixed with alcohol. The alcohol carried the powdered graphite all the way to the other end of the cable. The alcohol evaporates leaving the dry graphite inside to lubricate the cable. Disconnect both ends and pour it in from the top. When it comes out the bottom end, you know that the entire length got lubricated." http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-468798.html

It's literally a very fine powder. I think you 'll find it at Autozone.

What used to be called '6-ply' are now more commonly called 'Load Range C'. What used to be called '8-ply' are now more commonly called 'Load Range D'. Either will safely carry your Toyota motorhome. Tires have a 'shelf life' of 6-7 years from the date of manufacture. If older than that, they should be replaced. I'm not familiar with a tire currently offered by Dayton (or Bridgestone/Firestone) in 'our' 185R14 size. The owner might have bought and installed them new, but perhaps 10 years ago. With (perhaps) only a few thousand miles on them, he might legitimately consider them 'new', but this is not the case. Or they might have been bought more recently but be some really old stock that sat on a shelf in a warehouse for 10 years. New, maybe, but still no good. http://www.tirerack....e.jsp?techid=55 http://www.tirerack....e.jsp?techid=11

Q: "What comes between 'Fear' and 'Sex'?" A: 5 (helps if you know German) Better not change the question to "What's the President's Birthplace"!

Glad to see that $ex is still an allowed topic!

<$18 on FleaBay. Shipped, no tax. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=propane+tank+refill+adapter&_rdc=1

And that's without shipping.

I believe what you're looking for is called 'Insert Roof Edge'. Seems to come in 16' and 20' length. I'd suggest getting it shipped to your nearest RV store so that if it gets damaged in shipping, it's their problem and not yours! http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-locks/insert-roof-edge-31-1913.htm http://www.americasrvstore.com/rv.cfm?clientid=709&priclass=Roof%20Edge http://www.rv-supercenter.com/product_p/tr311994.htm BTW, when you see the prices, you might want to take the advice "remove carefully for reuse!"

You want to be very careful before lubing a speedo cable with and oil or grease. The problem can be that the cable turning inside the housing can 'pump' the lube up the cable into the speedometer. Basically, it's an 'Archimedes screw/pump/wheel'. http://1.bp.blogspot...archimedes1.gif Often, the recommended lube for speedo cables is powdered graphite. Sometimes mixed with alcohol (which evaporates).

Using info in posts here and the Toyota Campers Yahoo Group, it seems that people with the Honda EU1000 manage just fine doing everything other than running A/C. The EU2000 allows operation of smaller A/C (8000-9000Btuh). The big clunky 13,500Btuh A/C needs the an onboard generator* (2500-2800w). I'm sure a portable of equal capacity would do the job too. Kohler are reported to be noisier than Onan. Both are deemed 'antisocial' it seems. I notice that many MH are for sale with generators with VERY low hours. Less than 100 seems pretty common.

That would probably be enough power to run a 13.5k roof A/C. That's the good news. The bad news is that it's probably made in Chindia, so getting any parts and service will probably make it a 'throw away' item. To quote the immortal bard (Dirty Harry), "Do you feel lucky, punk?" They quote a noise level (59dB) but fail to mention if that's at idle, half or full power. 68lbs is not a 'fly weight' but at least it has a handle and is pretty conveniently shaped. There's a reason the built in wheels!

John's the Inverter Meister. I think he's got 1500 watts, IIRC. Enough to handle pretty much anything short of any A/C. But you won't be running things like space heater as you can with a generator.

Are those Load Range C? I didn't know Goodyear offered anything suitable. What's marked on the sidewall for maximum load, 1600lb @ 50psi?

Hmmm. So the wardrobe floor would have to be raised about 6". That would make it hard for me to hang my evening gowns! How about going down instead? Could the propane compartment floor be lowered instead? Is there anything occupying the space down there? As for the automatic switching, it's up to each individual to decide if your scenario is better than waking up in the middle of the night when #1 gets empty but knowing that #2 is still there and full. Knowing me, if I went your way I'd forget and end up with both tanks empty in the middle of the night. I need 'gentle reminders'. Ask my ex!!

Here's details of the Smart Car 'toad' trip from Ottawa to Texas and back. With pictures as evidence! http://toyotamotorho...h=1 But I'd strongly recommend either a trailer WITH BRAKES or flat towing with a Blue Ox Brake System. And figuring out the lightest possible setup!

I guess going to 20# BBQ tanks would preclude using the original inside propane gauge. Because of this, I think I'd prefer to NOT have an automatic switchover. Better, I think, a manual switch/valve as a signal that you're 'half empty'!

I've only thought about this, never while with the MH with tape measure in hand. Lots of time to do this with out Winters.

Yes, I was thinking that since you're apparently going to do some carpentry/reconstruction elsewhere, now would be the time to consider something like my 'daydream' But don't forget that whatever you do, the propane must be installed in a well ventilated, unlocked locker (I think there's a law that applies to this and must be completely sealed off from the living area. No electrical stuff in there, for obvious reasons. Nothing to do with your current situation, but a propane detector in the coach is a good idea. As well as smoke and Carbon Monoxide (CO) detectors, of course.They're not cheap, BUT cheap insurance! EDIT: You might be able to get away without a trap door in the wardrobe floor IF there's room to pass a 2nd 20# BBQ tank through the existing door with the 1st one in and vertical. I imagine that it would be 'tight', at best. And you'd also have to screw the regulator on and off 'Blind', I think. A trap door would certainly make things easier.

Can we safely assume you're going to have them cut you 2 keys?