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Everything posted by Derek up North
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6 month old gas will work just fine. No need to drain.
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Congratulations on the $500 deal. Your starting problem might be as simple as a stuck starter motor/Bendix or loose or corroded connections. Don't forget the grounds!
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I think there's a difference in thermostat temperature settings between the 22RE and 3VZ (V6). I think the V6 is 190 or 195, but I could be wrong and don't have my owners manual handy. IMHO, you can' go wrong following Factory specs. I'm not sure what you mean by a 'performance' cap and rotor. I guess if you really want to have something 'better' than a good OEM part, you can try these:- http://www.lceperfor...1-p/1081010.htm http://www.lceperfor...1-p/1081011.htm I'm not sure they'll give you anything beyond 'bragging rights'. Where are you in NY?
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The following was posted this morning on the Yahoo Group:- "Hi, Everyone. I have an 89 Seabreeze that needs some work. I am retired gal with full time job of caring for mate with Alzheimer's. He is still able to travel but any kind of repair is beyond his abilities at this time. MH has some rust underneath, a front window that leaks into bed, in spite of 2 trips to shop to have it fixed, need a new propane take and connector. I live in Midcoast Maine and there are no repair shops around here that I would trust. Would be willing to take it to a reliable place. Have also considered trading it for something that is ready to go and road worthy. This may be our last summer to be able to travel and don't want to miss it! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I do love my little Toy! and hate to see her expire! Thanks, all, Anne E" So, anyone have any recommendations for somewhere near 'Mid-Coast Maine'?
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I've read that it's very difficult to get anyone to work on them. If it's more than a bad fuse, wire, or control panel, you might be faced with buying another.
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A 'vacuum problem' is kind of vague. As said, it could be as simple as a disconnected or perished vacuum line. Bad PVC or EGR valve? A resource for you to download and read is the 1978 Toyota Maintenance Procedures. It's in the 'Files' of the Yahoo Toyotachinook Group, incorrectly named the Factory Service Manual (FSM). But better than nothing. I don't know if this link will work without joining the group:- http://f1.grp.yahoof...78toyotafsm.pdf The Toyotachinook Group would probably be worth joining since just about all the Chinooks are built on '70s chassis, so they're all used to dealing with early problems!
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National, for some reason, chose to not just use a standard antenna in the factory fender hole. Rather they made a new hole for a side mount antenna. The length and location of the side mount is such that it just clears the front of the overhead bunk area. To stop the antenna hitting the overhead, they added a rubber 'bumper/stand-off' with a hole through it that the antenna mast passes through. Hard to describe, I'm trying to find a picture to post. I'm understanding that the antenna mast has broken somewhere between the 'side mount' hole and the rubber 'bumper'.
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So you end up raising/lowering one end at a time? There must be some 'slop' in each mechanism. I guess it's just the tension in the canvas that stops the roof shifting fore and aft once raised. I wonder if it's too late to patent the idea?
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I wonder if you could get this setup improved by adding a gas strut(s) as used for hatchbacks? I imagine it might be possible to find one that would act along the line of the arrow I added to your drawing. You'd have to make sure it wasn't too strong or you'd have to fight to lower the top! Not that it makes much difference, but what view is that photo of? Looking at the driver's side? I'll also assume that there's another identical mechanism on the other side?
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Sunrader cabinets
Derek up North replied to mulwyk's topic in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!
Sue is apparently speechless! -
Standing room height in Toyota motorhomes
Derek up North replied to siskiou's topic in General Discussion
There's supposed to be more room in the cabs of the '89 & up V6 powered 'homes. That's what I've got and I have never driven an earlier model. -
Standing room height in Toyota motorhomes
Derek up North replied to siskiou's topic in General Discussion
I'm 6'-2". I still prefer the weather up here. -
Standing room height in Toyota motorhomes
Derek up North replied to siskiou's topic in General Discussion
The Dolphin brochure lists the overhead bunk mattress as being 50"x78". My '91 Seabreeze, when I bought it, had a standard double mattress in the bunk. (54"x75"). I have noticed some ads boasting about a Queen Size bed, but I'm not sure which ones. But this one does:- http://medford.craig...2850470657.html BTW, headroom is even less in the shower, due to the raised pan! -
Standing room height in Toyota motorhomes
Derek up North replied to siskiou's topic in General Discussion
Dolphins, SeaBreezes and Winnebagos are 6'-2" (according to their brochures, not that this will help you much. And they're all less under the A/C, vents and lights. But, as Linda said, there's not much real estate inside to be covered. At 6'-4", I'm sure he's used to bumping his head! -
This is what you want to avoid having to do:- http://ak91th.com/
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Just a wild guess:- http://mansfield.craigslist.org/rvs/2735120064.html
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There is no such thing as a '1979 Dolphin battery isolator'. Try looking for an 'RV battery isolator'.