Derek up North

Here's the best (and only!) web page I've found showing how to do it:- http://cabbieland.byethost9.com/Sea-Breeze-Refrigerator.html I can't be positive that it'll be as easy with a smaller, earlier cab. Just something to consider before buying a RM2510, as he did.

As an alternative to the 'leakproof' (they aren't) Sunrader, you could watch for an Odyssey Americana (they can leak too). Fiberglass construction (like the Sunrader) but wider and taller inside. And several interior layouts available too.

Some vehicle manufactures have indeed stretch the Service Interval for NEW vehicles to 100k miles and beyond. http://www.contitech.de/pages/produkte/antriebsriemen/kfz-ersatz/docs/service_poster_wechsel_miles_en.pdf Notice also that this chart also mentions a Service Interval in Years as well. From 4 to 10 years. Gates makes a general statement to change them at 6 years. Not 20. http://www.gates.com/common/downloads/files/Gates/TimingBeltReplacementChart.pdf

The Service Interval for the timing belt is indeed 60k miles. Also at the same interval is to check & adjust the valve clearances (another big job). It makes sense to do them both at the same time because some of the same components need to be removed to do the job. Unfortunately, there's no easy way to check if either 'needs' to be done. No simple test. No warning noises.

The only 4.3s I remember people mentioning were behind V6s. It doesn't seem to be a big priority for people to go and read their axle codes.

I think the only 'Performance' figure I've ever seen for a Toyhome was 0-60 in 26+ seconds.

... against a bunch of other tires we can't get over here. Even the Conti's are a different model from the Vanco 2s we get. http://infinityopony...omobil_ra08.pdf But they come out near the top. I don't know why there weren't any Yokos included.

No noticeable difference. Dead slow vs dead slow.

Every little bit helps. If both were available at the same price, I'd pick the 4.3. Just don't expect to feel any difference with your butt dyno! Maybe with a stop watch.

So, who's going to try it first?

I've got a '91 Seabreeze with a 4.1:1 and a '93 Warrior with a 4.3:1. Long story. Can't tell the difference without looking at the axle codes. About 5% difference. 3000rpm vs 3150rpm. Both automatics, of course.

Clarification. The 140HP/236ft-lb is for the 2012 2.0 TDI.

Despite the horsepower/torque numbers, I guess I just suffer the North American mindset that 1.8l isn't a whole lot of C.I. (110?) to move 6000lb down the road! And I'm guessing those 'foreign' MH probably weigh at least 1000lbs less.

This will help you find a replacement. Fitting something wider or deeper will be a PITA. Higher, less so! http://www.dometic.com/c17faeab-a5a2-436b-a032-b28317a7cff0.fodoc

From memory, the TDI is 140HP, 236ft-lb. If you can ignore 'no substitute for Cubic Inches', more than enough.

Yes, you'd need a key at arrival to go around and open all the doors. Obviously for extended stops. But you'd have to grab a bunch of loose keys and do that anyway with your solution.

Yokohama Y356, Hankook RA08, Continental Vanco2, Nexen SV820. Shop around. You should be able to get them for ~$100 each, out the door.

Before bidding on that one, you'd better check with the seller if it's a 35 or 45 amp unit you'll get.

A useful input. Thanks. Don't suppose you have any pictures of the towing operation? I'd like to add it to my 'Yes, they can tow' Archive. Maybe next time you're underneath you could photograph and measure what was done to beef up the frame extensions for towing. People are always asking.

How about leaving a key attached to a lanyard inside each compartment? Might mean fewer lost keys.

To help future readers to find the info, the Hellwig kit is #7539. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4563&st=0&p=26902

I'm willing to bet that you've had a vehicle with sway bars, at least on the front if not front and back. They're pretty much standard issue on all cars for decades. Shocks are a bolt-on installation, assuming the nuts aren't rusted! 2 or 3 fasteners per shock. If you're in the 'rust belt' it's worth giving each nut a shot of penetrating oil the day before. My favorite is PB Blaster.

With our 'sticks & staples' homes, I think you'll be lucky if you find anything more substantial than a 1"x2".

The Escaper 'Sport' is supposed to be aluminum, too.