tlava

I installed a new water pump, belts, radiator, spark plugs and did a valve adjust; put all back together, and now have a serious engine stutter/miss--There was a slight miss previously, but much worse now. The plugs are from Toyota and supposed to be pre-gapped==the gap was about .025 the old plugs were gapped at about .042, if that makes any sense... could I have messed something up on the valve adjust?

not to ask the obvious, but when you say you fill the block then bolt everything back up, I assume the radiator is reinstalled before adding coolant to the block, right?

the valve cover I put in new gaskets and grommets. the cap nuts keep turning, but never really tighten though they get a bit more snug are they compressing the new gasket material or could I be unscrewing the bolts from the head if reverse thread not sure how much to tighten these sorry my keyboard isn't working properly intakes were ok so didn't mess with them, a couple ex a bit tight and one a bit loose got them so the the .o11 gauge is pretty tight, maybe you could shove in the .o12, but def. not the o13 also timing chain looked nice everything looked really nice and clean like new in there valve train rockers timing chain and gears etc so I guess I shouldn't worry about the timing chain, since it is a chain and not the plastic guides at least I don't think so unless they are on back also looks like it would be tough to replace coolant question I drained system and replaced t stat (was orig 88 degree and I replaced with the two stage i think 195 in any case, should I have filled the block w coolant before replacing t stat, and then fill radiator, or just put all back together dry and replenish via radiator fill I can always remove t stat again if necessary currently no coolant in system I replaced water pump, scraping off as much of old gasket as possible from block with the razor knife which I hope was right thing to do though a few internal scratches on metal gasket surface it seemed or maybe just on a film left by old gasket...hard to tell all felt smooth though so I reassembled with new felt gasket one other question removing the old radiator I bent one of the copper tranny fluid lines slightly, then nudged it back it is now not perfectly rounded as other, but not sure if this will cause a flow issue. I know from exp with propane you can almost crimp a line in half and it will still work, but I assume not the same with fluids... BTW I got the alt belt easily off the water pump pulley without loosening the alt if I replace pump pulley working topside in first under belt will I be able to snug it in on the pump lip with a new belt, or will I likely have to loosen the alt I think tightening the fan clutch nuts will be hard since the pump will turn probably hold one nut with the wrench to keep the clutch from turning while tightening an adjacent nut any advice Thanks!

Hi Folks The plugs for my 84 22re came gapped at .zero 25 from the dealer so I guess that is right (question mark some of my keys dont work

OK thanks for input. BTW is it normal for so little diff bet. cold and hot clearances? so in other words, as the engine heats, the valves contract, and a clearance of .oo7 becomes .oo8, etc....

OK--I added pics of engine I tried disconnecting the vacuum hose to the brake booster, but that made things really bad--engine idled really rough with the hose disconnected, then just died--so I guess that is not a way to test a prob with the boseter, but didn't see anything else to disconnect there, except brake lines. Valve clearences are noted on the hood--they are .008 (IN) and .012 (EX) at "normal operating temperature"--so if I'm basically adjusting to those spece when cold (.007 and .011), could that be a prob? also would they be eaiser to adjust hot since nuts should be eaiser to loosen? pics of all attached. I included a pic of vacuum hose routings could egr issues caus a sligtly rough idle? I did remove the pvc valve and flush it with a bit of gas to clean it, but no effect there, except it had a cleaner rattle!

Since the rough idle I'm experiencing only happens when under load, and esp with brake on, I wonder if it could be related to the large brake booster diaphram connected to the brake resevoir (the lines themselves look OK). I had a similar problem with my Chevy van, and that was the culprit--as I recall there is a way to test that by disconnecting something to bypass the booster (can't remember what exactly)...but it really effects the braking efficiency.. any exp with this? Also, I have a cylindrical cruise control device (at least that is what it appears to be) in the way of removing the valve cover--it looks like I could remove the cable where it enters the device (there is a sleeve, but a couple small screws on the cylinder itself), though don't know if this will mess something up--any exp with these? Also wondering if, when I check the valves, only to worry about them if they are too tight--i.e., of open wider than spec, but not making noise, should I bother adjusting? If the valves were loose (too loose), I'd hear it, right?

Oh--btw--do the various gaskets--v cover, t-stat--go on dry, right? i.e., no added sealant, etc necessary?

Yes lining up rotor to #1 firing That is what I forgot yrs since the 67 VW v adj thanks for that video reminder! Waiter--thanks for diagram; missed that first time--v. helpful. thanks for link to parts site. Several choices for water pump, though--not sure which is best...apparently I can get gasket separately, and would be cheaper than buying the Beck/Arnsley, which includes a gasket--so eliminates on choice, unless the B/A is worthe the extra...

OK I guess that makes sense but how will I know when #1 is TDC peer through spark lug hole (sorry Q mark not working... so loosen the lock nut, then turn the second nut to either open or close the valve to spec, then just retighten the lock nut do I have to keep wrenches on both nuts while tightening the lock to keep the adjust nut from moving or will it hold

let me see if I have this right when I did valve adjusts many yrs ago to my VW, I had to follow the firing order and, if I recall, could only do one exhaust and one intake at a time i.e., when #1 was TDC, I could adjust the intake on #1, since at top of cycle and ready to draw in, and exhaust on next in firing order, or last I dont recall exactly, but seemed to be something like that.... or is the intake full open for all when one is TDC since they would also be in partial downstroke excet maybe last in firing order

Sorry--I know I should be asking this under another heading--but what about torque for the valve cover gaskets? I assume they should be tightened with a torque wrench? to what ft lb?

ALso noticed a 160 degree t-stat listed as an alt temp? : http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1984/toyota/pickup/cooling_system/thermostat.html

Oh--the link: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1984/toyota/pickup/cooling_system/thermostat_gasket.html

BTW--the dual-hole T-stat I ordered did not come w/a gasket--but when I go to the online parts place (the one recommended earlier for the valve cover gasket), to find a t-stat gasket, they show a couple different ones for the '84 22re --an O-ring, and a housing gasket with the bolt holes; the latter looks like the one I need, though it is listed generically for the '84 pickup, 2.4L, not necessarily the 22 RE, so I assume this is standard for all; do I need both an O-ring and the housing gasket? Also, if I need the O-ring, would there be a special one for the dual-hole t-stat, or is it the same... ALso wondering, about the vavlve adjust: what is the firing order, and how will I know when #1 is TDC? Excuse me, but it has been many years... and that was with a '67 VW 1,500cc ALso rotation is clockwise?

when flushing the cooling system, should I just run water through, or also some sort of cleaning agent?

It seems the bottom of the shroud looks like it will slip behind the fan, so it can be pulled straight up? If I take that, and then the radiator out, it looks like I'd have more room, and could remove the fan from the clutch, and then have an easier job getting to the nuts? The PS pulley and tensioner are in the way on top, and not sure I can get in there...

Actually, after looking at a YouTube vid showing how to replace the pump, I realize it is not the pump that is the problem, just the black pulley that mounts on the plate--it looks like a kind of metal cup that slide over the water pump mounting plate, and the belt rides on that; I don't know if it is just that the nuts are loose, or if the pulley is somehow misalligned, but I'm also not sure how to allign it. I read on the Toyotanation forum that there is "only 1/16" to mount it on on, and that it must be held in the "proper position" when the fan and nuts are attached, but I'm not sure what all that means...

I'd say at least 1/8, maybe more and a bit noisy -- maybe the noise is comming from the loose pulley. something definitely loose... so is the water pump is a difficult job? replacing the radiator and t-stat doesn't look to tough on this engine; for water pump I'd need to get the FC off--always tight. Any rec. on a tool for this, since I know a standard rachet won't fit? anything special I have do to when installing radiator (to avoid air bubbles, etc)? just fill, turn on engine, and keep filling? (I added a like earlier for flushing, so I guess same procedure?) Last time I installed an FC, the pulley and belt just stayed on--will I need to loosen a belt tensioner to remove the pulley? any step-by- step would be appreciated oh--just four bolts for the radiator brackets on the side, or some on the bottom as well that I can't see and won't be able to get to without pulling the engine or something equally absurd? would it be a good idea to flush the current radiator w/engine running before pulling it so that I can flush the block in prep for new installation?

got the radiator too--$255 for a 3-core. Any ideas about the loose pulley? normal? this is deja vu for sure---did all this witl the SR, to no avail....

ALSO NOTICED: the pulley that the fan clutch attaches to seems a bit loose--if I pull on the fan, I can move it back and forth a bit--should this pulley be loose or snug? If it should be snug/tight, then what might a loose on imply? water pump not working properly?

Hi All-- Idled the engine quite a while--temp guage in cab still runs up close to R, then drops. Using the infrared reader device, the highest temp I can get on the engine is right next to the engine temp sensor--close to 200 if I hold the device witin an inch or so of the spot I'm reading; if I back off about 6" to a foot, and read the same spot, it reads10-15 degrees cooler, so not quite sure which is the accurate reading. In any case, this seems to correlate with the high end of the temp guage on the dashboard in the cab--just below the red. When the engine reaches the high 190s (measured at the temp sensor), either the t-stat opens more, or something else happens and the guage on the dash begins to drop, ad the temp reading goes down. So one question I have is, when the temp guage on the dash is close to red, would that normally indicate an engine temp in the upper 190s? or or the upper 190s more or less normal operating temp. if so, maybe the temp sensor is too sentitive? Reading several spots on the block and heads, readings vary from the 170s and 180s to the highest as I said above. the rediator when hot reads in 160s --170s at the very top, to close to 100 in places just below the top, and 80's about midway down. When I measure the exhaust side, I get readings over 200, and even up to 220, when trying to measure at the spark plug area... well, a lot of hot air blowing on the temp device there, too, and the exhaust manifold nearby--so perhaps this is confusing the reading? Otherwise don't know why two sides of the head (couldn't find a spot to check the block on the exhaust side) would read so differently.

RE cooling system flush, bleeding, etc--This is all there is to it ?: http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/how-to-bleed-a-radiator-an-auto-diy-maintenance-guide

BTW--so you were experiencing temp fluctuations? Funny, though, driving the car back from Wisconsin the temp held steady, so this started recently. I think it is not a lower tem t-stat though: the one on Ebay is rated at 190 I believe Oh, BTW--does this require a gasket? any special way it should be inserted (ie., the various holes pointing in any particualr direction)? I assume it doesn't matter since it is a horizontal mount...

Found it: a two-stage t-state, part # 90916-03070 (03078 is the reg. t-stat); $33.00 + $10.00 shipping online at Olathe OEM parts ctr: https://parts.olathetoyota.com/index.html. There was also one on Ebay for $50.00 free shipping