Shoprat

Sir. your roof cracks to me look like what the marine industry calls gel coat cracks. Talk to a marine store about gel coat repair and see what they say. Hope this helps.

Hey Futar ! Have the mechanic pressurize the cylinder with compressed air. Listen at the intake manilfold , exhaust pipe, and place your finger over the outlet on the rocker cover for the P.C.V. valve and feel for pressure there. This will probably point out a leakey valve , stuck rings, etc. Then you can go from there. Hope this helps.

Ahh. Another Michigander . Bless ya , Son. I used WD40 in a spray can to lube the hone. Yup, 30 degrees is fine. The bolts that were dry, were they on the exhaust side of the head? I recall mine were that way. Over revving can cause bearing failure. As can pre ignition. Get a good quality engine assembly lube, put it on everything except the piston rings and pistons. Use the ol'soak the sucker in engine oil here. Assembly lube is so lubricating, it prevents the piston rings from breakingin, plus , just personaly, I didn't like the thought of this stuff any where near the cumbustion chamber. Hope this helps some.

Well . I considered the points brought up here regarding the aux. fuel tank in the spare tire area. Talked it over with the wife and we decided that we will install one. Knowltondatas' point about getting rear ended in an accident was discussed also, but we will get more peace of mind from extended range to offset the possible negative point. We sucked it up moneywise one more time, and ordered the tank. When it comes , I will see if I can get some installation pics.

Welcome Lextassy Sunrader. Sweet loking rig you've got there. Sounds like a good one ! Far as the dual thing goes, I would check with a dealer too make sure they will replace the axle . I think replacing the axle with a heaver one is a good safety choice. I think there was a post on the board here a while back about who to call to get an axle assembly sent to a dealer to have it replaced. Let me do some lookin' and see what I can come up with ! Okay, I'm back! It was stickyed at the top of the drivetrain forum-I'll give ya a linky http://www.toyotamotorhomes.com/files/Axle_FAQ.pdf good readin' there.

Well, iff'in ya didn't like the first linky, heere's another http://www.thelongranger.com.au/longrangefueltank.html

As I was interested in increaseing the fuel gallonage of my Sunrader, I came across this site http://www.nwmp.com/catalog3.htm#tpa I called them and the tank that fits my motorhome costs $550 plus shipping.Goes into the space taken up by the spare tire, so no loss there. What do you Guys think ? 550 seems an auful lot for 13.5 extra gals, but it would double the range. They say it's 16 guage electro-galvanized steel, so shuld last a while.

Howdy Aeolus- I have a Sunrader. I weigh 250 and sleep with no problem in the cab over bunk. I'm 6 foot and have to duck my head somewhat to clear the air cond unit in the ceiling. Don't have much problem in the other areas. Hope this helps.

Hey knowltondata.. Good luck on the studying and the tests. In May the wife and I are going on a road trip with the Toy.About 2500 miles in 3 weeks , so I'll check in afterward on how ya did.

Welcome MikeS ! You know, I don't know if they made a longer frame or not. Several guys here have done a lot of work on the frames of these things. Changeing a two wheel drive to four wheek drive, etc. They just can't leave the poor buggers alone. They are very knowlegeable, I just look at 'em out of the corner of my eye, if ya know what I mean.

Welcome Ridge Runner. I "m not a Winny owner but hang around a while, they'll show up !

Lexel, huh. Going to have to check this stuff out. Where ya'all get it.RV supply ?

Moosepucky... Lexel sounds almost like 3M 5200. As you said, next to impossible to get off. I, myself , have had no problem with silicone.But, that's why they make more than one product.

To Blingfree... This stuff is good for inside or outside use. To smooth the goop, just spit on the end of your finger and wipe the seam lengthways. As far as cleaning the old stuff off, that depends on what was last used. If it was just old fashioned window putty, a heat gun and a putty knife sometimes works. If it is silicone type caulk, the only thing I have found is just to rub it off with your fingers. This stuff is tough ! To knowletondata... I've never heard of vulcum. whatsitdoo.

I always use 50 year silicone caulk.

Love the turbo. HP wise, just by seat of pants, I'd say it boosted the power from around the stock 100 to up around 140 or so. I'm still trying to tweak the mappng on the upgraded computer systemm I installed, so miliage is still up in the air. But, this thing will now accellerate up a hill. There are a few threads farther down the forum here that explain the process I used. Just look for turbo upgrade threads by yours truly, it will save me re-hashing .

Sorry. Didn't give enough history. I installed a turbo on my motorhome. Had an issue with the previous plugs ( Ngk 5 heat range) and went to a NGK 7 heat range. Read a performance site that said sometimes boost presure will blow out the spark, so go less gap. Some guys go down to 20 thousandths. I tried this, didn't work. As you said, my replacement upgrade on the ignition handeled the wider gap fine. Just another piece of info learned. Thought I would share this with the other guys and guyettes on here.

Well, that idea sucked ! I decided to decrease the spark plug gap from 32 thousandths to 25 thousandths thinking lesser gap would fire easier. After this bit of experimentation, the motorhome acted like it had a bad case of constipation. To whit- stomp on accelerator, engine go coughcough-BAWWWWWWWWW- no speed increase. Drove it home, pulled and re-gapped plugs to 32 thousandths, engine ran like a striped ape. Hard to believe that a few thousndths can make that difference, but it did. Sometimes stock IS good. Also hard to believe that I made a mistake- I NEVER do that. I am now rocking my whimpering ego. Rats !

Okay-your answers explain a lot.Just from curiosity, what would it cost to get a system in a motor home that you could get help from anywhere. Probably sattelite capable?

Now that I think about it, probably I could just burn it to a CD. Then if I needed too, I could go to any PC with Adobe reader and run off the pages I need. I keep forgetting the things you can do now-a-days with these things.

Guys- I'm trying to understand the need you guys have to do this stuff. I know I probably sound like a grumpy ol' man, but I just don't see the attraction in doing this . Geez, guys ! Call someone on the telephone if you have to. I'm now donning my armor to lessen the cyber blows.

Thank you very much, knowltondata. That is a very valuable resource.Think I'll print the whole thing off and stick a copy in the motorhome. Beats Chilton. Once again , thank you.

Anyone have any info on adjusting the shift cable on these Toyota auto trannys?

I've never heard anything about a relay rod recall !

Howdy Judy !(It's Howdy Judy time, it's Howdy Judy time- Eek- Sorry ) I will try to answer some of your questions. Waste tanks should be emptied once a week. You should have a waste hose somewhere in or on your MH. This is put on the waste tank outlet on the MH. The other end of the hose goes into the dump stations inlet. On the waste outlet of your motor home ( MH) there should be two waste gates that are hand operated. You grab ahold of the handles and pull sideways to the pipe to operate. Empty the sewage tank first, close the valve . Then open the grey water valve to flush any icky stuff out of the hose, then close the valve. By the way, ALWAYS use latex or rubber glove to do the above operation. Drain the tanks when you leave a site. As far as how to operate your various appliances, Google the names of the units and get info that way. A generator is NOT neccessary. You can run your engine and charge your House battery that way in most cases. Use bottled water or water from a campsite pump for potable water. Use the onboard tank for toilet and washing use. Fill the tank at the site, if you use all the water, dump the sewage and grey water tanks, and refill. When you leave a site , drain the water tank except for about five gallons. This will allow you to use the toilet on the road , if needed, but will cut down on weight hauled. Hope this helps some.