Dirk

You might also try Air Ride suspension. You may have to fab the mounts, but lots of hotroders and custom car geeks are using them http://www.ridetech.com/ -Dirk

Started on the windows again...... =O) ....the sludge front the stock seal sucks to remove! Acetone and patient work wonders.....can't wait for warm weather tho!!!

Bajadulce Thanks for the info.... I have decided to go the simpler route and use the rubber roof coating. The aluminum roof rack is going for sure and I am definitely getting rid of as many screws and holes as possible. I do have some pooling and a little (nothing near as bad as your roof photo) so I need to take care of that. I'd like to reinforce the roof to prevent any future sagging as well. Unfortunately, I don't have another Sunrader or roof photos to compare my roof to.

I have suspicions that my Sunrader's roof is sagging a bit. Does anyone have a photo of their Sunrader's roof that I could use to compare my roof to?

Hey Josh, How's the interior coming?? I finally started removing the windows. I had two out and cleaned before the weather changed. I'm taking my time now because I'm hoping the weather will start getting nice soon. Weather's bad part about living in northwestern Oregon. I'll have to think about investing in a pole barn so I can work on my projects!! ~Dirk

Try one of these links for "How Tos" http://www.timberman.com/Default2.htm http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/tanks.html http://www.roadtripamerica.com/rv/RV-School-Days.htm

No Longer available....

I'm researching that.... From what I've learned so far, the basic Carb. or EFI 20r/22r would pass. I am guessing that the engine pictured would not because its built and tuned for racing. I'll ask around and post the results. ~Dirk

Here's a sweet deal on a rare 1986 4x4 toyota extracab - $3000 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/145231555.html Reply to: sale-145231555@craigslist.org Date: 2006-03-25, 5:31PM PST 1986 Toyota Pickup with 2.2 liter turbo and automatic trans. 184,000 miles. Daily Driver. Has Bedliner, newer brakes, exhaust,starter and Die Hard Battery. Don't want to give her away but baby forces me to sell. Call Alan at 253-228-4443 if you are interested. Thank You. * This item has been posted by-owner. * this is in or around tacoma * no -- it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

Found this deal on Craigslist....I would buy it but my wife would kill me if I add one more vehicle.... It's a1975 Toyota Chinook Camper - $750 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/146810301.html

I came across a photo of an EFI intake that was designed specifically for a 20R head. Being curious, I Googled and Googled until I found this link http://www.well.com/user/mosk/DaveGsMotor.html It has a juicy tidbit regarding "Dave G's monster 20R/22RE turbo hybrid" ....."[it has a] 22r with JE 8 to 1 pistons, LC engineering stage five head with turbo cam 264 duration .510 lift, stainless steel 1 5/8 turbo header made by myself, Force Fuel injection custom made intake and plenum utilizing a Ford Motorsport 65mm throttle body with 83lb accel injectors, Turbonetics 60-1 turbo with a .81 AR and a P-trim wheel sized to support approx. 550 horsepower, turbonetics racegate and godzilla blow off valve and a big old intercooler. Intercooler piping is 2 1/2 inch and the downpipe is 3". Ignition is handled by a MSD digital six plus and controlled by the SDS EM3." While I realize there isn't really a NEED for a 500hp engine in a wee motorhome, the EFI manifold is quite a beauty.

Hi, Do you really want more horses or torque? Either way, there are ways to increase both. If you Google ?22RE tech? , you'll come up with some good info. There are sites like http://lcengineering.com/ and http://toysport.com/ that provide both tips on performance upgrades, parts, and complete engines. Your rationality, budget and emissions requirements will dictate. Here are some basic specs on your engine (taken from http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/): Year 1986 Model 22RE Max Horsepower (@ RPM) 105@4800 Max Torque (@ RPM) 137@2800 Cylinders 4 Displacement (ccm) 2366 Fuel Delivery Electronic Fuel Injection Compression 9.3:1 Bore (mm) 92 Stroke (mm) 89 Most likely you have a 4 speed automatic Model A340H transmission AS FOR YOUR QUESTION: Any number of things could be affecting the performance of your engine from a bad plug to a piston, a bad transmission to a bad torque converter. The best way to determine what is is to start small and work big or to take it to your mechanic and pay to have them run a complete check of the drivetrain. 1.tune up (you might find a loose spark plug that is releasing compression) 2.compression and leak down test (maybe bad rings, valve seals, or head gasket). 3.Test the O2 sensors (may be bad) 4.check transmission (change filter and fluid) I generally start by purchasing a Haynes or Chilton repair manual and/or a shop manual. I recently added ?How to Keep Your Toyota Pickup Alive: Step by Step Procedures for the Complete Idiot? for 1975-1987 / 2WD & 4WD (John Muir idiot book auto series). The book is out of print and sells anywhere from $30 to (get this) $200.00+. All generally have decent troubleshooting guides, but are no replacement for experience and knowledge. Good Luck, Dirk

Hi Josh, I haven't started yet. I have a small amount of repair to do on the cabover, but nothing as major as your project. I have peeled the interior paneling of the sides and roof. Luckily, I was able to pull out the paneling 99% intact, so duplication will be less of a hassle. I also pulled off all the front and floor carpeting. It looks as if my flooring is in good shape, though the cabover's is "weathered," but not to the point of needing to be replaced. Since we have a dog, I plan to Pergo the main floor, but haven't figured out what to do for the cab-over..maybe newer shag. =O) I have also pulled the marker lights off and I'm in the process of replacing and rewiring them. I 'm soldering the connections so I don't have to worry about loosing any ground connections after I put the interior back together. I'll have to wait to put the marker lights back on until after I finish recovering the roof, which, as with many motorhomes, was neglected. I'm trying to decide whether to re-glass the roof or use a rubberized roof coating. Either way I have to work on chipping off old caulking and removing all that's bolted down. We've only had 1-2 days of nicer weather and the temp is still a bit chilly to let things cure so I clamber onto the roof and chip away for a bit then fiddle around in the interior. I've partially disassembled the overhead cabinets on the passenger side to gain access to the rear marker light wiring and to make it easier to replace the chrome roof railing. NOTE to SELF: will have to replace most of the screws as many are rusty. It seams like a lot, but the previous owners took it to the beach quite a bit, so I figure I should take my time and make sure I don't miss any salt damage. With all this (and the ?upgrades? I want to do), I also decided to make a "to do" list to help me keep on track....I get side tracked really easy. =O) I'll be looking forward to seeing the pics!! I should have started taking ?before? photos. I think it would be cool to have documented for ?historical.? Dirk

Toyota introduced V6s in 1988 http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/

Has anyone converted their engine to run propane? I'd be interested in knowing what size tank your running and whether or not you tied into the other LPG system.

Turbo Greg's correct, there is generally a code stamped on the axle housing. you may have to clean the differential up to read it. The local Toyota parts people should be able to tell you what parts you need. When I purchased my motorhome, I was given a packet by the previous owner with upgrade information. The information only shows "1979 through 1983 components for micro-mini motor homes on 1979 through 1983 model year Toyota cab and chassis." Unfortunately there are no part reference numbers. The address on the materials is Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc 19001 Western Ave. PO Box 2991 Torrance, CA 90509-2991. Although Toyota.com shows the address as: Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. 19001 South Western Ave. Dept. WC11 Torrance, CA 90501 Phone: 800-331-4331 Mon - Fri, 5:00 am - 6:00 pm PT Sat, 7:00 am - 4:00 pm PT Fax: 310-468-7814 Here is are good references for general "stuff" http://www.fourwheeler.com/toyota/ http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/axles.html

Unfortunately, I am in the process of resealing my windows, but do to the weather here in Oregon I've had to put off my project for a while. I have pulled apart the interior part of the cabover and removed the interior framing from the side windows. It appears as though there is enough room to caulk under the lip. Since there doesn't seem to be much holding the windows in, so I plan caulk the lip with the method I mentioned in my other post, then run another bead around the edge of the window frame once I've let the first application cure and have tightened the window down. What caulk are you going to use? The stuff I picked up is a polysulfide base rubber compound. The brand name is Boatlife about $18.00 a tube), its one that is sandable & paintable and is designed to remain flexible. Either way, the main thing to do is to be sure your mating surfaces are clean. As you do your research, you'll find that the term "clean" is stress quite often. =O) Hope that helps...let me know how it goes.

Hi Josh, My '83 Sunrader has an American Appliance Mfg Corp (a subsidiary of Mor-Flo Industries) water heater model RV3. One Internet post stated this, ?American Appliance was bought-out by Mor-Flo who went out of business. The tooling for the American Appliance/Mor-Flo water heaters was bought by Suburban water heaters.? It appears there are many parts available on the Internet if you want to refurbish it. From what I can tell, the only non-replaceable parts on all models are the outer (square) jacket, the tank and the control housing (looks like a square baking pan on its side with 5 holes drilled in the bottom. According to the manual there was a 6 gal. and 10 gal version. The 6 gallon has a height of 12 3/4" and width of 12 3/4", the 10 gallon has dimensions of 16 1/4" X 16 1/4". The manual doesn't mention a depth, however, it shouldn't be to hard to measure. I have the original manual (includes part numbers for the RV3 and several other models) along with a list of factor authorized service and sales reps that I can post if your interested. If you do want to replace the water heater, I would first get the dimensions. It shouldn't be to hard to find an RV water heater that will fit, although you still might have to do some show horning. =O) Prices for new heaters start around $225 and go up. Suburban Water Heater dimensions http://www.rvcomfort.com/suburban/products/water/specs.php Campingworld.com http://www.campingworld.com/ Marksrv.com http://www.marksrv.com/waterhtr_sub.htm

I chose to use a synthetic-rubber based caulk on my aluminum windows. (Suggested by my local boating supply store for weather resistance and flexibility.) Although it seams modified-silicone polymer based caulks are very good too. Several boat repair links generally seem to prefer bolting the window on rather than using screws. 1. removing the windows 2. Take the time to COMPLETELY clean the mating surfaces well and you might even lightly sand the surfaces for better bonding 3. run a very generous bead of caulking around the mating surface 4. let it skin 5. reinstall the window BUT do not tighten screws completely. use shims to space the frame off the fiberglass about 1/16" to 1/8" 6. allow the caulking to cure -> follow the caulking manufacturer's recommendations based upon temperature. 7. last tighten everything down Here's a good link regarding caulking: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00146.asp

From what I've read, you should stick with 1 or 2 electrode plugs in the 22 series engine to avoid fouling. (This was also noted for some of the newer plugs with exotic materials like iridium) Multi-electrode plugs seem to be a gimmick as electricity will alway travel the route of least resistance. The spark won't arc over all electrodes at the same time. Its probably best to stick with good quality basic plug or use a truck plug. That said, what engine? Chevy/Ford/Toyota?

Here are a few links for those interested in upgrading their charging system to handle high amp stereos, added electronics, or just to beef it up. Just remember to upgrade your battey isolator if you use one. http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/alternators.html http://search.ebay.com/alternator-toyota_P...aMEFSRCHQ3aSRCH

Hey guys, Great article!! I noticed a link as broken, so here's a new on via Froogle: http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22col...=en&btnG=Search Also, LEDs are getting brighter and brighter the Luxeon? LED is a great example. Although LEDs are general more expensive than other lighting, they're prices are going down. I put a couple red LED 1157 bulbs that I had laying around in one of the light fixtures in my Sunrader so I could use it as night light. They work great and generate WAY lest heat. I plan on getting new lens since the old lens are discolored from the heat of the original bulbs. (Note: the fixtures are designed to use 1156 bulbs) And as Turbo Gregg noted, the low amp draw is a BIG plus. Suggested links: http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ http://www.globalsources.com/manufacturers...7-LED-Bulb.html http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/115x-x12x19.htm