centralman
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Posts posted by centralman
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There are a lot of things that can cause your problem from fuel pressure to bad grounds. If the plugs are wet and you have spark it maybe a cold start injector it's possible it has been leaking and just flooded it. You can remove the injector (leave the fuel lines and the wiring on) it is attached to the intake manifold have a friend crank the engine for you. Wrap the injector in a rag (it will spit fuel when it is cranked)after it has cranked for a bit remove the rag and see if it is still dripping fuel if so replace it. If it is not dripping fuel put it back in and remove the wire to the injector floor it and see if it starts beyond that you'll need some one to find out why it is flooded as there are lot of possibilities.
Tried your method today, here's what happened:
1. The cold start inject didn't leak, it sprayed fuel when cranked but didn't not drip fuel after I stopped cranking.
2. After putting back in the cold injector I disconnected the wire and floored the accelerator trying to start the MH. Cranks but doesn't start, heard a few (but not very loud) backfire noise from the driver side of the engine.
Any other ideas?
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This happened to my 22RE back in June. I had good spark, fuel pressure, etc. It turned out to be the ECU...computer had gone bad. Popped a new (used) one in and started right away. Here is a link to my thread:
http://toyotamotorho...?showtopic=2949
Just another possibility of what it may be (or maybe not)....
Thanks I have been keeping track with your post for sure it gives me some idea I just hope it doesn't come to that but thanks for your suggestion.
My case is a little bit different as the vehicle would not even start up at all versus yours can start up for a couple of seconds and then dies.
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One of the issues with slipping belts is charging two or more batteries the alternator is working far harder then was expected of it. One answer would be to increase the alt. pulley size for more torque but that would reduce the output at slower speeds. I had a look at my 2.7 Toyota it uses flat belts on every thing A/C, power steering, and the alternator. It looks as if some of the parts could be used on a 22RE the crank pulley is a maybe, would it fit the 22RE? No way of knowing with out trying. The A/C would require a replacement compressor the fan/water pump pulley seems to have the same bolt spacing. It would be a really project to retrofit the old 22RE no matter how it would be done as so many parts would have to be changed so I guess we are stuck with old technology unless you have very deep pockets.
This maybe something worth considering:
I am thinking of upgrading my existing OE alternator (from a 87 22RE) to using a GM 12SI (Lester #7279SE) which has an output close to 100amp. In fact, many people seemed to have done this upgrade with ease and no problem. All you need is a kit from Trail Gear and a GM alternator, which should be easy enough to get, it might just get rid of the fan belt problem as well.
I would like to ask if anybody can provide me with detail instruction (preferably with some illustration) how I could hook up another deep cycle battery in my MH since the house battery compartment is so small. Thanks for your suggestion and help. If I could do that then I would definitely upgrade my existing alternator with a GM one.
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No that is what controls the injection time and when is should inject. The part is a electromechanical valve so to speak it has full fuel line pressure all the time and it only turns on when the engine requires it temp, ect. But it can leak, drip fuel into the intake manifold and that will effect all the cylinders not just one. The fuel inject system is quite complex but amazingly problem free many things can have an effect on how it runs so there is not a cut and dry answer. You don't have a check engine light on do you?
Thanks Maineah I will try your suggested test tomorrow. I noticed the check engine is on when I turn the key to "ON" position. It disappears after a while.
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Could the ignition coil wire have popped off? It happend on my car a year ago. Parked it and when came out wont start. Couldn't figure it out cause it had just been running and everthing worked, till my passenger plugged it back in. Just a thought. GL
Thanks I have checked the coil wire is fine and all spark plugs have spark when I try to crank the MH, but thanks for the thought.
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There are a lot of things that can cause your problem from fuel pressure to bad grounds. If the plugs are wet and you have spark it maybe a cold start injector it's possible it has been leaking and just flooded it. You can remove the injector (leave the fuel lines and the wiring on) it is attached to the intake manifold have a friend crank the engine for you. Wrap the injector in a rag (it will spit fuel when it is cranked)after it has cranked for a bit remove the rag and see if it is still dripping fuel if so replace it. If it is not dripping fuel put it back in and remove the wire to the injector floor it and see if it starts beyond that you'll need some one to find out why it is flooded as there are lot of possibilities.
Thanks for your suggestion, I cannot get to it today but sure will give it a try tomorrow. May I ask what kind of bad grounds could cause this? The problem you mentioned is with the cold start injector or the time switch?
I am sorry to ask but I just want to clarify, thanks.
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My MH wouldn't start yesterday ... It cranks and cranks but wouldn't start, I checked that the battery's good, has spark on all 4 plugs and there's fuel (the plugs are wet with gas after I tried to start it for a while). I worried that I flooded the engine but I try again today and again it just keep cranking but wouldn't start. Any ideas before I tow it to my mechanic? Thanks for your help and suggestion.
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Plain water will absorb more btu's then a mix of antifreeze distilled water even more the only problem is rust inhibiters etc. Know any one that works for the rail road? Locomotives use no antifreeze but they must use some type of additives. Yeah my 87 does 13-14 if I run 60-65 on the highway but that's a lot better they our friends with a V8 class C at 6-10!
Would taking the fuel injectors out and cleaning them by a professional company make the fuel economy better?
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I've a feeling that the 15mpg figure occurs when the speeds are kept to 50-55mph. Aerodynamic drag varies with the square of the vehicle speed, so if I remember my aerodynamics right, increasing your speed from 55 to 65mph will increase your aerodynamic drag by 40%.
Thanks, at least I know my MH's fuel consumption is not too far off from everybody else's!
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I had the same problen with the same motor in a sunrader. I changed hoses, belts, thermostat and went to half and half anti freeze or so I thought turns out mechanic put in straight water. However when I took the MH to montana from NY last year after the work no problem gauge stayed at a quarter way whole time. MH sat all winter with no anti freeze in it unknown to me I nevered checked it was on the bill and I trusted mechanic. Took MH out for the first time after winter and took a trip and I have the same problem as you heats all the way up at 60 ,65 and cools down at around 50, 55. I have no leaks and I dont think I had a freeze up but I have been watching this thread hoping you would find a solution before I started spending money. As for the fuel mileage I never did that well as some say they do I get 11 to 12 steady. I have heard these motor homes only get 17 to 20 when your selling them and when your owning them 11 to 14 is more realistic.
mm
Thanks for your input. I always thought my MH's fuel consumption is worse than everybody else's. My Toyota MH is actually my first MH, so let's say the fuel consumption is about average at 12MPG, how does that compare with the other MH's (North American chassis ones)?
PS I will keep updating this thread as I will try to resolve the coolant temp problem, of course anything I find out I will let you know.
Also, I tried putting in Water Wetter additive by Redline, it doesn't have a noticeable improvement on the coolant temp.
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OK if you say so.
This is getting so weird that when you find the problem you are going to start banging your head against the wall, cause it was so simple.
Probably you are right. But the two rad hoses I replaced didn't have coil springs on them either. From reading all the posts here, I have learned a lot. The only other thing I found odd with my MH is it's fuel consumption. I average 60-65 mph (more likely around 61-62mph) on the interstate or highway, and my MH is around 12mpg on fuel consumption. I have heard people here has upwards of 15mpg, that's the norm, could the two things be related?
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DID YOU check lower hose? I've seen the coil spring left out.
Yes, I have checked my mechanic used Goodyear #361 (Outlet-Engine Side) and Mackay #CH2426/16572-35030 (Radiator To Pipe) for the bottom rad hoses, they don't have coil spring on it.
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Is the bottom radiator hose soft?? Some have a coil spring in them and others are built very stiff.
If the hose is soft the water pump can make enough suction at high RPM to cause the lower hose to collapse and greatly reduce the coolant flow.
Thanks for your opinion. I have had all 3 rad hoses replaced earlier this year, so they are still ok.
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There is a little brass button on the cap in the middle of the gasket it has a small spring that holds it closed. When the radiator cools it draws a vacuum opens the little valve and sucks the coolant back in. Any leaks or a loose hose to the coolant tank and it won't work. You may also check and make sure the hose in the plastic tank is deep enough.
Thanks Maineah,
I have checked the hoses from radiator to expansion tank, they are tight, and the vertical hose has enough length to go all the way to the bottom. Before when the coolant is spilling out, the expansion tank will empty out after the engine cools down overnight completely.
I am not sure how to check the radiator cap. Maybe I tried to have it replaced and see what happens. Thanks for your suggestion.
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I travel between Northern Virginia and East Tennessee quite often on I81/I40. Usually I average 65-70 mph on the trip in my 83 Sunrader R22. The temp guage always sits in the 1/3 to 1/2 range. It will go to the 1/2 mark if I run for any length of time around 75 mph. On one trip averaging about 65 mph it rose toward the red, slowing down to 55 brought it back to the 1/2 range.
After arriving home I checked it out and found two things out of the ordinary. Some of the exhaust manifold bolts were loose. Don't know if that had to do anything with the problem or not. But the other thing I did was replace the fan belts. They looked new, but I did install 2 new ones of a higher quality, and tightened them just a smidge tighter than the recommended deflection. I have never had the heating problem again, and didn't have any bearings go out on the alternator or water pump. It seems the fan belt would slip at the higher RPMs but it didn't squeal when first starting up.
Allen
Hi Allen, Sorry for the late reply ... I would like to update my progress here.
The belts were replaced by the previous owner a couple of years back, since then it had put on 13,000 miles.
I took the MH to my mechanic to tighten the belts just before going on a trip from Vancouver, BC.
Coolant no longer spills out, but at constant speed around 60-65mph on the interstate, the coolant temp indicator will go up to 3/4 way from Cold to Hot, at lesser speed around 55 mph, the indicator will stay at half.
One thing I find it odd is that the coolant level still drops a bit from top of the radiator the next morning after it cools down. It acts as if it doesn't suck the coolant all the way back in from the expansion tank when the engine cools down, but the rad cap is only a year old and I don't know why this is happening.
And the belts were replaced at a Toyota Dealer. I don't know if they are good enough, and what would be the ones with higher quality in your opinion?
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This should give you an idea:-
Thanks for your info. May I ask does this apply to 1987 22RE specifically? May sound like a stupid question but wanted to make sure, thanks again.
I think Kim's idea is great too if there's an easier way to approach this.
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I ended up adjusting the device to the max (adjustor nut) and could immediately tell the difference.
I read that some folks have totally removed them or detached the arm from the axle and wired it to the
bed in order to provide max fuild.
Hi there, would you be willing to share how to adjust the device please? Thank you.
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yes, it's most likely your front brakes. They take the majority of pressure due to motion and weight than rear brakes. My suggestion would be:
(1) Keep your MH's weight down as much as possible;
(2) When braking downhill try the press and release routine, don't step on the brakes for any long periods to avoid overheating the brakes (my guess is you will feel the shutter after overheating the brakes);
(3) Use heavy duty rotors and pads for your next brake change.
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My guess would be, change the blower motor resistor?
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You can use these Toyota OE part numbers to cross reference with other parts manufacturer:
Wheel Seal, Rear, Inner 90310-35001
Wheel Seal, Rear, Outer 90311-62001
Rear Brake Shoe, 04495-35180
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Is there any reason that a newly tuned-up & timed 4-cylinder 22 re efi Dolphin with 50,000 miles, only 2 passengers & new/inflated tires would get 6 miles per gallon on the highway (although it is a pretty hilly highway) with a max of 12 or 13 miles per gallon on flat highways? I always read 14-18 miles per gallon when reading Dolphin adds. 18 may be exaggerating but 6 is ridiculous. I might as well get a class-A 40 foot 10 cylinder diesel... It would probably get twice the milage that the Dolphin is getting...
Need to investiage further ... I think most people here will agree with me that The MH burns most gas at intersate speed (60-65mph) and you will get the best mileage running at 50-55mph. So for me, going up hill would actually have a better mileage. I have no idea why you got 6mpg on hilly roads. I have a 87 Dolphin with 22RE EFI engine.
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I solved my problem centralman! It was a tired fan clutch and a partially plugged radiator. I've driven my rig up the mountains in 90+ weather and over 65 mph, and it stays below half, a little obove 1/4. New radiator from Auto zone ($115.00) and new clutch fan ($52.00). I'm ready to hit the road with very little fear.
Good for you! I am not so lucky. I have changed both the fan clutch and a brand new 3 row radiator already, but still the same.
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He might have simply put in a different one, just to make sure it was operating correctly. Just because a new one has been installed does not mean that it is operating correctly. Have you placed the current one in a pot of water to watch to see that it is opening fully before the water reaches a boil? No matter the thermostat rating (160*, 180*, 190*), they should all be fully open by 212*!
Yeah my mechanic friend tested the thermostat before putting in, it was ok.
If you want to try a higher pressure cap why not loop the heater core hoses. There were two different temp thermostats but I don't think in your case that's a problem because it's opening at operating temperature and if it's running hot it is unlikely that it's closing. I would guess at this point you probably have tried running it with out a thermostat any way. Just an off the wall ideal is the thermostat installed properly? They are off set to one side and I think the by pass port can be blocked open if it's not lined up.
The thermostat installed properly, in fact, I have tried 3 different types of thermostat already, and in the end the coolant still spills out from the expansion tank when driving at interstate speed. No, I haven't tried running the truck without a thermostat.
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That maybe pushing it I think I would worry about my 20+ year old heater core.
I understand your concern, I think about that too and I would just do a moderate test on the vehicle see what happens.
i'm not mechanically inclined in any way but had similar issue long time ago. my mechanic put in in different temp thermostat maybe not even for 22re and problem solved.
Did you know what he put in?
Fibreglass Has A Crack
in General Discussion
Posted
On the last trip I discovered that there is a crack on the fibreglass at the forward cab over area. Could somebody point me in the right direction what I can do to do a bit of DIY repair to get it fixed, thanks!