centralman

Thank you gentlemen for your feedback. I guess I can consider replacing the pump when it reaches 200,000 miles - that is, if my toyota motorhome will last that long! Took 25 years to reach 120,000 miles I guess it will take another 16/17 years to reach that! Thanks again. It's been very educational. I guess we all wanted that peace of mind when we are on the road, we can work on our own time and pace when the MH is at home but who needs trouble when you are thousands of miles away?

Thanks for everyone's input. I guess the best course of action would be to listen for the fuel pump to get loud and then consider replacing it. Would then like to ask who has experienced a failed fuel pump on a 22RE (Not necessarily the RV): 1. How long would the fuel pump take from having symptom (eg loud pump noise) to complete failure? and 2. Everytime I refuel the rv it usually takes around 13.5 gallons on average, would that be too low? Again, thanks for your advice.

Thanks to everyone who has replied. May I ask the followings: 1. Did anyone do a preemptive replacement on the pump? Or rather wait until it fails? 2. At what mileage would you consider doing a replacement? 3. Is it better to carry a Denso OEM model fuel pump as spare? 4. If the fuel pump fails on the road, is it considered impossible to replace by yourself? 5. Should I also carry the fuel filler neck and vent as spare? Do you know where I can get that? 6. Did anyone experienced a fuel pump failure on their toyota RV? I understand we drive our RV very much differently than our daily vehicle like maybe even with the same engine and setup the same part may fail at different intervals. Again, thanks to everyone for their input.

Hello everyone I have a 1987 Dolphin with close to 120,000 miles. I am wondering when the fuel pump will fail - It's not something it has happened to me yet but I would like to ask if there are any symptoms of fuel pump failing and at approximately what mileage it will fail. I really don't like to idea of being stranded somewhere with a dead fuel pump. Would anyone do a preemptive replacement on it? Thanks for your advice.

My GPS!

Yes, it did. Before the temp would at times reach the top of the normal temp zone (the top of the white zone), now it would reach maximum 2/3 within the white zone.

Thank you for your question. Background info: My MH is 1987 22RE Auto, with approximately 104k miles on the odometer, I have had it for 2 years, and had put approximately 20k miles on the clock. The "overheating" problem has been with this MH since the day I got it. My good friend who is also my mechanic charges me at a "special rate" that's why I have been able to do so many things with my MH. I don't think quoting what he charges me reflects true market cost. It took him less than half a day to do the job (I don't know exactly how long but I left the MH with him for half a day). All I know is that he needs to replace the intake plenum gasket also when he does the injectors. Also: There's no noticeable difference in terms of fuel economy after the injectors change. Usually if I need to travel down to the USA, Interstate-5 is the normal route and I have traveled down the Vancouver-Portland route many many times so I know what the MH should perform at different slopes, long stretches ... etc.

I know a few of you have been following this post and I have just discovered something. Thinking of trying to increase my MH's performance I took the advice of my friend and mechanic to change the 4 fuel injectors. I did that after my Mexico trip. I didn't do anything else apart from changing the injectors (Apart from the fact I need also to change the intake plenum gasket for the injectors change). I used Pacer brand fuel injectors. I just had a 600+ miles trip to Portland, Oregon this past Easter Weekend, the first time I use my MH after Christmas. Acceleration has been increased slightly and the top vehicle speed has been increased by a few more MPH as well. What surprises me is the coolant temp went down as well. Now even if I run the car up at 65+ mph range the needle would go up to 2/3 of the normal range, which really surprises me. I do not yet know why changing the fuel injectors might affect coolant temperature. I cannot say for certain this will help those of you having similar problem with me. I can only report what I have seen. Good luck.

Thanks for everybody's response and reply. I haven't been active on this thread for sometime now because I am in the process of moving. During my Xmas - New Year holiday I drove my Dolphin all the way from Vancouver BC down to Mexico (Albeit I only went to Baja California: Mainly San Felipe and Ensenada. Again, temperature's on the high side when traveling around 60mph, need to add a little bit of coolant every morning, still see some coolant spills out when the temp is on the high side (like you have been traveling at around 60mph for a while and stops for gas, you don't see the coolant actually spilling out but the coolant in the expansion tank (reservoir) is at the very top and at the end of the expansion tank tube you see evidence of some coolant has spilled out. But other than that, everything is fine and there has been no other problem, and I made it home safely. I include a couple pictures here, the coastline of San Felipe and the coastline of the "blow hole" near Ensenada.

I use CSF brand radiator part number 2314. This is the link to their spec sheet.

Nov 2010 Update: The RV Goop held up. Cab area is still dry, but new problem comes in. There's water leak when heavy rain. First A/C unit drips water, then it moves up to one of the cross sectin of the ceiling, and then the front cab. Had a horrible time driving the RV in the middle of a trip back home (When the RV is moving the leak seems much less). I think my roof needs a complete re-seal for sure. Could I ask for some help here: Does anyone living in the Greater Vancouver area in BC knows someone/some company who can do a good work and charges reasonably? Much appreciated for your help.

I live in Vancouver BC Canada. Last time I drove to Montana I was surprised to find out the regular gasoline there only has a 85.5 octane rating (where mostly in the west coast regular gas rates 87). Would that be enough for our Toyota MH?

Hi there, Page 21 of this PDF describes the actual valve clearance adjustment procedures. Good Luck.

You are probably right. Thanks for your input. If I encounter this problem someday I would keep this in mind. But for now I'll just have to live with it before changing every part.

Thanks again for your reply. OK. Here's what I am gonna do, a little experiment. For the time being I will just put Clear RV Goop (I happened to have some bought a a WalMart before) to the crack and see what happens to it at the next trip. If inside the cab is still dry I'll probably proceed with the 5200 fix. If not, I will get professional help. In a way, I am far more lucky than some people. For that I am grateful. And I thank you guys for all your help.

Thanks for your suggestions I will call them up if I need the Sealant. Thanks for your reply I am gonna seriously think about it to be honest I am new to the RV scene (only started May last year). I had a good mechanic friend and he does mechanical work for me and gave me good price. He was the one who suggested that I get a Toyota RV for it's reliability. He does good mechanical work but he couldn't help me on the body side. As such since last year I have enjoyed over 12,000 miles of travel. Odd thing is I don't feel the slightest moisture in the cab over structure but I guess I will see how things go. I don't think I will apply the 5200 just yet. I have no idea on this ... but how much do you think it will cost for such a job?

Anyone from the Greater Vancouver area in Canada who knows where I can buy some of that 3M 5200 sealant? Looks like I couldn't find it anywhere. Thanks.

Thanks for your post, I am just contemplating my next move now as I am not good at DIY at all and I just worried that I open the Pandora's Box once I take things off.

Thanks for your post. Yes, I just checked today the front is metal and the siding is fiberglass. I followed your instructions and pulled up all the bedding and poke around to see if anything wet, It's all dry and solid.

Thanks for your suggestion. I will update you with my progress.

Thanks Maineah I am not very mechanically inclined but next time I put the car into the mechanic shop I will let my mechanic aware of this and see if he could do anything about it!

Any help will be much appreciated, thanks!

Mechanic checked the fuel pressure was ok, really didn't know why but after that I took the MH for a 700 mile trip (I got the mechanic did the alternator conversion for me while I have the MH at his shop) no problem whatsoever and made it back safely.

Update: I did do the conversion while I had the RV in the mechanic shop. It was good timing too because apparent the alternator bracket was cracked. Output is good, the only downside is that both the brake and charge warning light came on (albeit it was a weak light of both), when I pull the hand brake the brake warning light grows brighter. NOTE: After the conversion I did a 700 mile trip. Headlights are brighter I noticed. No noticeable difference in fuel consumption.