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Thanks Greg, I was thinking about just using an extra wire and splicing into the brake wire then splicing it into the brown running/brake wire on the plug. Guess that wouldn't work.

Trying to figure out how to wire the harness on an 89 Itasca Spirit, which is on an 88 Toyota frame. The darn toy has separate wires for the brake lights. This is a 4-wire harness, anyone done this?

Hope they do help. Just had a question tho, are you sure it's a Warrior, I didn't think they made the Warrior till 89? My Spirit title says it is an 89 but the truck and coach were both manufactured in May of 88. Try this for service manual, not sure but I think it's the one I found. http://granolaboy.net/temp/toyota_truck_and_4runner_88.pdf

Check out the Gallery on this site there is a Winn diagram that says 319RB on a couple of the pages, it may be of help. Somewhere on the web is a 88 manual for the Toyota, I can't remember where it is but I found it for my 88.

Nothing on that site. I will try and attach pic.

Have 89 Spirit that needs a new piece of moulding for rear corner. Moulding runs from front bed area along edge of roof and down the rear of coach. Where might I find a replacement piece.

I would think the panel is for charging the coach battery. You probably have an inverter already built in, so you would not need a second inverter. Did you try just plugging in to an outlet. The more amp hours the better for a new battery. I plan on adding a second 115 amp to my rig wired in parallel for 230 amp hours which should give me plenty for no more than I will be using battery power for.

It kinda depends on what the title says. Here is the site I get most of my info. http://www.winnebagoind.com/products/previous-models/ May have to copy and paste. Sometimes they are under Winn other times under Itasca (Spirit), still have not figured out the Warrior.

Welcome to site. Been trying to figure out if it's an Itasca series or straight Winnebago. If the title says Itasca it is a Spirit Series, if it says Winnebago it's a Micro Series. Sometimes it makes a difference when searching for info.

If you can find someplace to get the boat and trailer weighed, it would give you a better idea if or not you want to tow it.

Mine is 14ft aluminum, probably close to 1000 lbs, but figured if I could tow it with the small six in my front wheel car without blowing the tranny that I could tow it with the 89 Itasca Spirit. Have not tried it yet.

Sounds like one of the drain valves is in the open position. Don't know where your pump is, but some where near it you should find two drain valves, on my Spirit they are pull to open push to close. Used for draining system for winterizing.

Welcome to the site, what do you have, the Spirit or Warrior? Not to many of us on here with the winnie's. Just got my Spirit in Nov. so have not even had a chance for a road trip yet. Did get the frame re inforced for a tow hitch for my boat before the snow started flying.

Carb or fuel injected? If carb and I remember right it usually helps to advance timing.

I somehow find a downloadable manul on line for my 89 Toyota, not sure they would be same but try that and see if you might be able to fix yourself. I howevre do not use cruise unless I am on flat road, tend to use more fuel with cruise that just a steady pace, it does slow down uphill but picks up downhill. One queston where is the generator, compartment or mounted to rear bumper?

My screen door seems to missing something, does not have any way to keep shut with outer door open. Can't tell whats missing or even where it is missing from. All the screen doors latches I see on the net are for keeping screen to outer door, have not found a latch for the screen door, not much room between outer door and screen for normal latch. Would like to find one with a keyed lock.

Do you have other policy with them, or new policy. Might switch if new.

Mike, that's probably a sure power isolator especially if it's rectangular with fins. I take it that you’re running a Toyota chassis, I just picked up an 89 Itasca Spirit and it has the old style 3-post continuos duty solenoid. Found it was bad, in my research I noticed for mine I needed a solid state with 4 posts because of the alternator. Picked up a Sure Power 9523A which is for up to 95 amps.

Probably not possible but thought this is a good place to ask. I have what I believe is a Norcold fridge model 875 EG2, the 2 way gas and a/c, would like to make it a 3 way. Anyone know if possible and what board should I be looking for. The recall has been done on it.

Kinda figured that. Pulled and cleaned it yesterday, no help. Checked coach battery, shot. Only a 95 hour anyway. Thanks

Nope defiantly not Ford switch. This sure power is continues duty, 9523A. Not really sure but it's a group 2, which I need for my year, something about the type of alternator.

Stan, are you talking about inside or outside? I was only going clean up the outside where the nuts and contact wire are, alot of rust there. I did not plan on opening it up without knowing what I'm doing. Thanks

I just tested it, small wire and main battery good, aux battery side only 0.05. I will try and clean contacts tomorrow and see if that helps, bit cold now. Finally found something on these manual ones earlier today, it said to mount it facing down, mine is up don't know if that would make any difference. Planned on using the Sure Power anyway. Don't know what shape the aux battery is in guess I better plan on pulling it out also to check.

Thanks, I will test it. I just bought a sure power 4 terminal off ebay, should get it next week, figured it would be the best way to go anyway, but wanted to know if I even had anything.

Does anyone know anything about this switch? I downloaded the Dolphin manual from gallery and it talks about one, it kinda looks like a Ford starter solenoid. It's suppose to charge both batteries while driving or plugged in. I have something that looks like it on my Itasca Spirit but my aux battery is dead and won't charge either way.