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Toyomota

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by Toyomota

  1. Words of wisdom, I agree!

    The proximity testers will test the hot side but will not show a problem if the loose connection or fault is on the neutral side as the light will still illuminate or the buzzer buzz. Our maintenance guys are always stumped when they tell me the proximity tester says there is power in the outlet but the TV will not turn on. Its because the neutral died somewhere. With a standard multi tester you will be able to run other tests such as continuity on your shore power cord and the brakers etc..

    Thanks for that follow-up Greg, I was gonna edit my post regarding the neutral side. But here's the thing though, if a person is afraid to touch that high voltage-high current wire with his multimeter's probe for the reason of getting electrocuted, then a Non-contact tester is probably the way to go - I think. Just turn on whatever is plugged in (might not work with some solid-state relays and appliances)to that outlet to complete the circuit then "buzz buzz" away the neutral line til gone, then there's your break... kinda like the christmas light tester.

    But I'm ball-c enough to use both AC-PT and MMtester because I use it at work. wink.gif

    With Maineah's words of wisdom, I totally agree to that as well.

    And folks, the last main thing is ..... -Safety First- !

  2. If you can get one of those AC proximity tester from any home center, they're great for tracing faults in AC lines. Before you plug in your "shore" power cord, turn off all the lights, appliances, converter and accessories. Now once plugged in, use that tester to see if power is going to the 30A main breaker which Maineah have mentioned. If you have power on the main, check each breaker if it's getting distributed to all. If everything is good there, switch on your appliances and accessories one at a time to find the offending one. I had this kinda problem before, and what happened was the old converter/charger combined with a dying coach battery was drawing too much current from our outside AC outlet which tripped the house breaker constantly.

  3. I would buy a can of under coat at the parts store and cover the whole thing one can will most likely do it wipe the oil off first.

    Thanks Maineah, yes that makes more sense now that I'm thinking about it and leaving just the oil will just collect dirt.

  4. Check it out 22re automatic.

    #1 Powder River Pass 9666ft

    #2 Continental divide 10759 ft, but without trailer

    Lots of purdey flowers along side the roads rolleyes.gif

    Pardon the hijack guys...

    Just want to ask WME, what are those two tone colors of your MH?... I like!

    And all the best to little Sadie!

  5. Just got a new fuel tank for my MH. Out of the box there is this grease/oil kinda coating, it's unpainted (exterior), so I guess to protect it from corrosion. Now before I install it, I'm wondering if I should degrease it and then paint it... with what?(best rust inhibitor)... or just leave it as is?(with that grease) ... Any thoughts?

  6. Perry, man!, sorry to see that. :( Those are very graphic pix. At least no one got hurt. It's hard to think that a ply from a tire can do that kind of damage...but it did! and I guess it can happen anytime. Thanks for sharing P. and the awareness.

    Now folks, sorry for my ignorance, but what are the most common causes of a blow out?...and why is it more common on a dually?...aside from the obvious(ie. replace old wornout tires), how can a blow out be prevented?

  7. well the paint cost me $1600.00 and i am very happy with it,

    my 2 dogs are a golden and a mexican mut i rescued 3 years ago in san carlos mexico so we named him carlos... :]

    hey nice outcome on that paint job b.b.

    how many coats?

    so did you or the body shop have to do a lot of exterior prep work prior to painting it?.. all hatches to be removed.. things like that

  8. Solar power I'm looking to add a solar panel to our rig, I'm wondering what size I would need, it would have to be something portable as I don't have access to the roof, so I need something that can be set up when we are boon docking down in Mexico, it would be use solely for keeping the coach battery topped up, we have no electrical appliances and do all of our cooking on the propane stove or charcoal bbq, we have a small inverter for charging camera batteries, the coach battery will last two to three days if we use the pump and lights sparingly.I would be grateful for any advise on size and where to buy, I will soon be driving down through Washington, Oregon and California on route to Baja. thanks Mike

    Hey Mike

    This is what I have http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...28565_200328565 and it's pretty good in keeping my batts. charged. It has a desulfator, cap meter and claims it can charge up to four batteries. I only charge two batts the most. I don't know what's portable to you, but this is pretty light and I just lean it on anything to face the sun.

    ...my 2 cents

  9. Welcome to the forum

    Nice ... you did a good job cleaning that freebie.

    Your 'before' pics looks exactly how my rig is when I first got it ... plus mouse traps on mine...occupied!!! xP

    But yeah, with a little tlc and tons of bleach, ammonia and lysol ;), my baby is as sterile as an operating room.

    Maybe I'm just as sterile now with all those chemicals but ........ :)

    Enjoy!

  10. I just bought a burned out 1985 Huntsman, mainly for the 6 bolt axle. The cab and coach are pretty melted. This RV had 69,000 miles on it and the 22E motor, automatic trans, and underpinnings are nice. If anyone has an interest in something, let me know.

    And where are you located Strassy ?

    Thx

  11. Tailgater said:
    Guys -

    I hope this is simple. I got an 86 New world Toyota RV.....(still determining what a new world is, but that's beside the point)

    Electrical Problem:

    I put a new battery in for the generator and everything was fine. My buddies apparently left the lights on, etc and drained it....once we jumped it and charged it, NONE of the outlets work. To complicate matters this occurred while it was raining pretty good (we are addressing some leaks as well).

    My gut says there should be a reset button (similar to GFCI reset) or fuse somewhere and we'd be all good. We've looked all over and can't seem to find a reset or blown fuse.......any ideas?

    Do a search, type keyword " ISOLATOR " on all forums. :detective2:

  12. IF/when I ever do this, I am going to do this so the camper comes off the truck when I arrive at my destination. I know that sounds complicated as crap.. but damnit I want to be able to go into town, get supplies or do some sight seeing. Repacking up the motorhome just isn't fun. And I could lose my great camp spot too! So NEXT year! I mean it this time.

    Hi Bajadulce - are you thinking of those overlanders, trucks with slide-ins to the bed?

    I've seen utility bed type 4x4 trucks Stahl or Reading(custom I guess) with a pop-up slide-in camper and they look awesome plus lots of storage and great functionality.

    OK, I am drifting to a different forum now... oops sorry.

  13. Greg. Do you have a snail mail address? I"d like to help you keep this site up, because it is too valuable not to help... I don"t have a credit card since they always want more back than they loan and on time.... Steve.

    Yup... maybe like a P.O. Box

  14. Does anyone know how to figure out why a Fuze keeps blowing?

    I really dont know what the fuzes do, or how they work, or anything..

    but 2 of our fuzes keep blowing which means we have no lights in the RV

    as me and my partner Live and work out of our RV full time, this is very bad, even for a night.

    I have put about 10 new fuzes back in place and all of them have blown.

    there are no lights on, and I really am at a loss as to why they are blowing,

    any help would be greatly greatly apreciated!

    Thank you

    Backtrack - try to remember what's the last thing you did electrically before that happened, if you just added or replaced an equipment or appliance, a device, an accessory. Even 1 coach light that have been damaged can cause a short.

    Have the condition of your battery/ies checked, your local auto parts store should be able to that for minimal or no fee.

    Also do the process of elimination, turn "off" everything, then start turning on one device at a time til that fuse blows...and make sure you use the correct fuse and bulb rating, check your manual.

    A wiring diagram can come in very handy.

  15. Hi, I have an '87 Winnie Warrior and the connector for checking the code is probably be the same as yours. If you're standing in front of the engine compartment, it's on the left hand side close to the battery and relay/fuse box, it will be a small maybe a 1"x2" black connector where it says on the cover "DIAGNOSTIC". At the back of that cover is the legend to what is what on that connector. So just follow the same procedure as what IDTracey have mentioned to pull out codes and same as resetting with the battery.

    Hope that help. Good Luck.

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