WME
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Posts posted by WME
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A 200lb generator will have a 1000lb of force when you go over a bump. Can you put the generator in the Winnie generator box, at least for transport?
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Be you RICH??? If not then try your local CC, years ago the course was called Powder puff Mechanics. I'm sure in todays world its some thing like Auto Mechanics 101.
As proud owner to an elderly Toy House you should be able to.. Check fluid levels in the rear end, transmission, brakes, cooling system and all the batteries. You need to know how to change the engine oil and filter. Adjust the valves, change the spark plugs and set the ignition timing. How to use a volt/ohm meter.
These are all 101 level skills, easily learned and having this knowledge/skill will pay for the college tuition the first time you have a problem on the road.
In the years I've been RVing Ive had to change water pumps, alternators, a fuel pump, replace radiator hoses, a toilet. Preventive maintenance goes a long way, but stuff happens
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Have you just tried bending the lever. About 1 ft from the valve just bend it up 8" or so. Keep checking the small button under the arm and make sure it is moving up.
If this works then the valve is OK and just leave things this way. If no help then the valve may be frozen. Maybe remove it and try taking it apart and cleaning...After all its already broken?
The sad news is a new one will have the same problem.
Some folks have just removed it completely and used brake line blocks to to reconnect things.
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They rarely go bad, but its part of a full suspension upgrade. Poly bushings, anti sway bars F&R, new rear spring pack. Ya know all the right stuff for MR-2 like handling
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The Escapers were factory foamed. helps keep the floor warmer. Its a high quality foam and is very fire resistant.
The black tank on the mid shower/toilet is very low mounted. Suffers from ooppses. Its easy to check. Empty it and flush it several times. Over fill it and find the leak. If it leaks inside then you need a new seal... Its a simple foam gasket. Leaking outside then your looking at a crack some where. The tank vent is on the roof.
The sink is molded in removing it would involve a lot of fiberglass work. A slight help with the shower room thing is a curved curtain track, gives you a bit more elbow room. Also the sink door is laminated and will peel easily, a cap of clear Gorilla tape goes a long way
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Add to your lists new HD torsion bars.
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Yep 90 days. When I bought my HF generator I was offered a 2 year extended warranty... for $70
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I used a 2" sanding drum with a drill to SLOWLY
grind the inner pipe to the correct size. There was a few mismatched spots so I used Linda's ABS glue thing to get a good seal.
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14 hours ago, neubie said:
. There is a pin called ignition assist on the thing, I should read its manual.
Wow a totally awesome thought
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SOLAR is the answer, a simple single 100w panel will deliver 30-40AH a day. A 100w kit is under $150
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A 3 way Dometic operating on propane will draw about 300ma at idle and 800ma when the gas valve is on.
Totally WAG average 500ma for 24 hours would be 12AH, of course in warmer weather the flame runs more so 20AH is possible.
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Disconnect solar, measure voltages, turn on truck head lights. At some point the combiner will disconnect the batteries and the truck battery will keep dropping and the house battery should hold a constant voltage.
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A good grade of Elastomeric coating will last 10+ years.
The PROBLEM is the quality of the work the PO did. Is your coating cracking or peeling? If its intact just inspect yearly and proceed accordingly.
To redo a poorly done roof coating is a major PIA. You have to strip things down to the bare metal, prime and recoat with 2-3 coats
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These are the no hole corner mount kits. Clean the roof and glue the mounts down. No holes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-ABS-Solar-Panel-Corner-Mounting-Brackets-for-RV-SUV-Caravan-Home-Roof/302297128009?hash=item4662501c49:g:kYwAAOSw-0xYmBzJ
If you use the z brackets use lots of lap sealant.
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I have used Windy City and Renogy. Both sell KITS on Ebay and offer free shipping.
Home work...Controller PWM vs MPPT, panels Mono vs Poly, Z bracket vs corner mount.
IMHO if the budget will allow for a little Champagne go with Mono panels 21% vs Poly 16% effencey, Mppt controller 90% vs Pwm 80% and corner brackets (glue down) instead of Z rackets (screw holes in roof) I mean isn't one piece part of the reason for a Sunrader . Fergettabout glue down flex panels. In high temps they have a much shorter life span.
Check roof room and maybe go with bigger cheap panels, because 200w of solar is 200w of solar. Maybe 240 w solar and PWM controller. Anything is going to be better than nothing. My first solar was 60w and it was sorta an extenda stay. My current set up is 280w and is perpetual motion.
Reducing the power drain is equally important as big solar panels
Most solar pros want to sell you their stuff for them to install it. Check out the DIY scene it really isn't that hard.
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Modern combiners, combine when one of the batteries is under charge. Charge from truck alternator, charge from RV converter, charge from solar.
They act as isolator when there is no charge. The trigger is when one of the batteries drops below a certain voltage usually some where in the upper 12v range, then it turns into an isolator.
So you would be good with one.
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Do you want good enough or do you want righteous?
Isolators come as a basic solenoid type, copper contacts or an up rated design with silver contacts. Its $30 vs $90. The solenoid when new has almost 0 loss, but as it ages it loses more.
The diode type have a built in fixed .7 v power loss. You need one of the 4 post isolator, the 4th post is for the exciter voltage
These both work just like advertised. There a much newer design that does the same basic things. BUT it will allow the rv converter to charge the truck battery when your plugged in to 110v AC.
This is one of the smart ones. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Victron-Cyrix-ct-12-24V-120A-Intelligent-Battery-Combiner/171934028788?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
So you makes your choice and pays your money.
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As long as the combustion chamber is intact then the furnace is safe to use. The furnace uses no electricity. If I remember correctly they are around 8,000 btu. They are also known as direct vented convection furnace.
A newer replacement will be 12-16K BTU. The fan will move a lot of air, but will exhaust the average RV battery in 2 days in cool weather.
If you are planning adding solar then the battery problem goes away.
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Are you sure about the 10,000 staples?? I think mine had at least 25,000.
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No NASCAR race viewing, sorry. If you need to do maintenance then a full width (side to side) plywood to spread the load.
grind the inner pipe to the correct size. There was a few mismatched spots so I used Linda's ABS glue thing to get a good seal.
The 1990 Toyota Odyssey V6 4x4 that we call The Comvee (warning: long post with photos)
in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!
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Awesome. Sounds like your going to be busy for a while.
Just remember its not a Rubicon Jeep. Do you remember the 4x4 Sunrader that these folks upgraded? http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/build-out-week-1-2
6 months of work, then 3 weeks on the road with this result...http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/2018/sunrader-4x4-for-sale