WME
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Posts posted by WME
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The only item that NEEDS a generator is the A/C, if you boondock in hot places a lot then you need one. If you camp in moderate temps then a Fantastic Fan will cover most cooling needs.
If your idea of camping is KOA then you won't need one.
Microwave is possible other item, buts that been covered.
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FWIW my Escaper had the rear bar under the axle and the torque arms went to the rear.
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How to rehab a Sunrader in 21 easy steps...http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/build-out-week-1-2
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I think the reason the fuel tank looked odd is the factory (which most of us have) the tank runs N/S not E/W. Which begs the question what else would fit there?
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Go here and read...http://www.bestconverter.com/
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Techno babble 101... 12v stuff= lights, water pump, stove fan, any powered roof vents, updated propane heaters.
Converter=converts 110v AC to 12v DC to power all the 12v stuff in an RV when its plugged into shore power. When its not plugged into shore power all the 12v DC stuff runs off the battery
Inverter= Inverts 12v DC in to 110v AC to power microwaves, run a tv and dvd. Note an inverter can draw 100 amps from your 12v battery to run a small microwave. It is very unlikely that a 1978 RV would have an inverter.
However P/Os have done stranger things to old Toy MHs.
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If you look at your photos the spring on top of the factory springs is an after market overload spring.
Ride quality is both springs and bushings. A worn set of bushings let the spring move in the shackles and results is a harsh ride on normal roads. The spring is supposed to FLEX at the axle for a controlled ride.
The best ride combo is stock new springs with NO extra leafs and air bags inflated to level the rig. Even though the poly bushings are stiffer, the ride quality will be much improved over worn 20 year old factory bushings
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Unless it has had Linda's tree fall on it or somebody has done the low overhead thing to it its should be an easy fix. 96% of Sunrader leaks are vent and marker lights.
The Sunraders have just 3 parts a floor, a lower wall and a 1 piece upper. Thats why a lot of people want them...
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Looks like somebody used a booster spring on top of the pack.
So your in the market for new springs, airbags, shackle bushings. After you do all that you wont believe the ride difference
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Tika also organizes a west coast Rally at Quartzsite AZ....http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10437-12th-annual-quartzsite-toyota-rv-rally/
If you "need" one in OR/WA, go for it and host one your self
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C&C only sells pairs of 5/6 adapters, so you need a "friend" in the same situation as you are to split the costs of a pair. The side benefit of this plan is you only need 1 6 bolt rim. Buying your own pair means you need 3 6 bolt rims, 2 for the front and a spare.
With your 5 bolt front the center of the tire and the weight is carried between the 2 front bearings on the front hub. With the 5/6 adapter the weight is the same place because the 6 bolt rim is flipped around and the deep dish and adapter work together to center things.
P.S. Toyota uses a similar adapter on the later model MH chassis.
P.P.S. If you can find a wrecking yard U-Haul Toyota box truck or a newer Toy MH you can easily swap the complete front end and gain the factory 6 bolt with bigger brakes. At the right yard this might be cheaper than 2 adapters and 3 rims
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Rule 1 your not driving a Caddy, your driving a grossly overloaded TRUCK. Thats life
That being said they make 5000lb capacity air bags for Toyota pickups. So using a set of these and reducing your spring count will give a softer ride.
Down side is that maintenance is real important, because if you pop a bag the rear will be dragging.
On some of the larger Class A MH there was a kit where you added a Panhard rod and cut the springs in half and added real high capacity airbags. This gave a much nicer ride, an again a blown bag was real bad juju. There are current LARGE Class A that are fully air suspended, but they are way more complicated than cutting the spring pack in half.
Spring theory...Multi Leaf springs are linear rate springs, without overload springs installed, like 500lbs moves the axle 1" so 1000lb moves the axle 2". Air bags are rising rate springs. 250 lbs moves the axle 1" but it takes 750lb more to move the axle 2". In this example it takes 1000lb to move the axle 2" in both cases, BUT 1" bumps are softer
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Long distance traveler...you have the 6 bolt rear and 5 bolt front wheels. Spare tire situation.
1. Carry 2 spares
2. 5 bolt spare for front. Rear flat, limp on with with 3 rear tires and fix flat ASAP. Most owners do this..I gone 100mi on 3 tires. Remove flat, inflate single tire to max psi, drive slow.
3. Find a "friend" and order a set of the 5/6 adapters from Custom and Commercial Tires, find a 6 bolt rim. Flat in rear just change the tire. Flat front, bolt on adapter and 6 bolt rim.
4. Buy a set of adapters and 3 6 bolt rims. Mount adapters and rims full time, have one 6 bolt spare .
These Toy MH use a ODD size tire, a lot of tire jockies say they don't exist. So buying a replacement tire on the road can be chancie.
Tire LT185R-14C... "8 ply", "Load range D", "Load index 100/102".
Custom & Commercial...https://www.customandcommercialwheel.com/
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Add to the replace list the rubber brake hose going to the calipers and the master cylinder. Bleed and flush the entire brake system.
FWIW the only thing both front brakes have in common is the master cylinder.
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Check the breaker panel for an auto reset.
One lame thought...on most RVs the black wires going to the battery are +, the white wire is ground or -. Of course who knows how the POs have rewired things in years gone past. BE CAREFUL
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Click-ping is the sound a auto reset circuit breaker makes when it overloaded. So look for auto reset breakers and check their wiring.
They are usually a little silver box 1"x.5" with 2 wires going to it.
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The Honda 2000 is now the Honda 2200!
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FWIW my local full service rv center says for a rubber roof install they charge $100 per linear ft., parts and labor. Thats over a good base, roof repairs are extra
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Some had electric brakes on the tag. The axle usually used a coil torsion spring for support.
The tandem idea had a couple of variations, 4 or 6 rear wheels. The 6 wheels had foolies on the truck axle so they had the axle problem, just less often.
The tag added about 350 lbs of weight and add about 700lbs of carry capacity so for all the $$$ you only gained 350lbs of carry increase. The tire wear was a bit weird with the rears sliding in corners.
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Pull all the fuses. Put them in one at a time. If you have a milliamp function on your volt meter place it between the battery and ground, it will show instant current flow.
No meter just hook the battery and watch the LEDs as you plug in the fuses.
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Sorta in order from best to worst.
1 A real garage.
2 A barn.
3 A tarp shelter...one of these....http://www.hiscoshelters.com/portable-rv-garage-shelter.html
These tarp jobs have 3 different grades of roofing 2-10-15 years warranty
4 An RV cover...2-10 year life span, depending on quality
5 A tarp tied down properly...Use garbage bags with foam popcorn to form a roof line so the liquids will run off. blue tarp 1-2 years, silver tarp 1-5 years
6 Nutting put a couple of blocks under the front wheels to help drain the roof
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The recall was NOT against Toyota, but against the RV manufactures.
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Awesome. Sounds like your going to be busy for a while.
Just remember its not a Rubicon Jeep. Do you remember the 4x4 Sunrader that these folks upgraded? http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/build-out-week-1-2
6 months of work, then 3 weeks on the road with this result...http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/2018/sunrader-4x4-for-sale
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