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Posts posted by WME
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The thing I see as a down side is only a 10hr run @50% load on a 20lb propane tank.
Speaking of generators here is a crude, but apples to apples on generator noise...https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=294&v=MzsJ4RksYn4
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Ain't opinions wonderful ?Actually where to put the sensor is the start of many verbal food fights.
Those for the transmission output line believe that its is heat that is what kills transmission fluid, so they want to know what the max temp the fluid has been.
The pan guys believe that heat kills the transmission so they want to know the temp of the fluid that goes into the transmission.
What ever you do the important thing is to see what is "normal" for your transmission and when you start to work it hard the gauge gives you warning to slow/shift down.
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2 choices in the pan or in a cooling line.
To mount the sensor in a transmission cooler line you need a kit like this...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-sen-04-11
If you put it in the pan you will have to drop the pan and install a bung like this...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-270?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-hayden-automotive&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI07PtmLSk3gIVEIzICh1IggBdEAQYAyABEgJO4_D_BwE
The pan mount will give you the average temp of the fluid, mounting the sender in the transmission out cooler line will give you the peak temp of the fluid.
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Three variables that I can think of are. How far apart the spring pads are, the ujoint flange and the ebrake cable. None of there are a big deal to a proper shop. The hard part is finding the 1 ton axle and rims at the same time.
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New shocks and bushings, check good stuff.
Have you looked at the bushings in the rear springs?? 30 year old rubber bushings are usually junk, they will let the rear spring actually move and not flex as they are supposed to.
Mid level mech skills need to replace them. New OEM type will be better than what you have, best is the poly bushings that the off roaders use.
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Had friends that had a MBZ 240D in Alaska, the engine ran for 4-5 months continually 24/7 during the winters. The only time it was turned off was in a heated garage for an oil change.
They let the heater off when it idled to avoid the problem Maineah had. He said it used between 1.5 to 2 qt of diesel a night.
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Well for starters it will help a bunch if you look for parts for a Winnebago Warrior, not a Toyota Warrior. However there only a few Winnie "only" parts in your RV, like the overhead hatches. Most of the stuff is universal stuff so look at your local RV place or internet ...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/rv-parts-rv-accessories
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Jacks come in 2 basic styles.
There is a 2 post lift. you find your campers center of gravity and lift there. You remove truck and lower the camper to a set of blocks. They are not long term stable on just the jacks.
The other is a 4 post there is a jack in each corner of the camper. Jack it up and your done. Its long term stable, but blocks are a good idea if your going to be going in and out while you have it off the truck
Figure a 1/2 hour to remove or install after a little practice.
If you have the "big bucks" after your property sale, then there always this...https://www.stablelift.com/stable-lift-products-two-jack.php
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Diesels and turbos are a match made in heaven... Get your turbo going and your MPG will go up, your smiles will increase substantially.
Gas gauges are not very linear, so MPG is best done fillup to fillup
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Using a dolly or a trailer is not quite a drive on /off deal. There are ramps and tie downs to deal with. There are braking systems for towds. $$$ The big deal with a trailer is that you can back one up. Flat tow or a dolly its like trying to push a rope
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Why a trailer? Just flat tow a Smart Car. Blue OX and Roadmaster make baseplates for it.
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If my eyes are seeing correctly it looks like your in the market for some new tires.?
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Go to budget source is a garage door door seal...https://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/magadobowese.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImuSoqJSR3gIVClgNCh1YgAI0EAQYGCABEgJiVvD_BwE
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Unless you have an overwhelming reason to go to a 12v refer, remember that propane has a higher energy density than a battery by cubic space.
If you have a real need for a 12v refer, you should renumber to also look at marine refers. The important thing to look for is peak amps, if average amps is available does the reading say at what temp... Apples and apples n all that.
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2 hours ago, Derek up North said:
I can only go by what's in the 1985(?) brochure. Some Excapers had aluminum frames. The ones with Aluminium exteriors. No comment (from me) on earlier or later years.
Well my 86 had aluminum framing and fiberglass siding.
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Escapers had aluminum frames with corrugated fiberglass skins and aluminum roof
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The rear window has 2 seals. The butyl tape between the window frame and the RV siding. AND a butyl rubber glue between the window and frame. The rubber gasket on the outside of the window is just for looks and doesn't seal anything. Well actually it is there to hold the window in place while the butyl rubber glue dries.
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A "rubber roof" is just a thin sheet of EPDM "rubber" rolled out and glued to a layer of plywood so it will be hard. Most toys have an aluminum roof, same thing a thin sheet of aluminum over a ply base.
Again most toys by this time in their life have had a polymer sealant painted over the original roof.
Carefully scrape your roof until you get to the original and let us know what you have and we will give you the straight skinny on how to take care of it.
If you have a metal roof, for the seam I would clean down to original roof, Eternabond tape the seam and the Snowcoat it.
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If your some where you can dump a tote tank, your some where you can dump your RV tanks. So unless your going to transfer waste to it, then strap it on the back of your RV and take it home their not a lot of help ...
There are some campgrounds that have only a central dump point, if you didn't want to drive there every couple of days it would be useful. I have a 10 gal at home I can dump in my homes sewer clean out. I use it for maintenance.
.P.S. an 18 gal tank would weigh over 130 lbs full.
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You would lose a lot of sun time because of the wrong angle.
My panel is mounted flat on the roof. Its power out goes from 2 amps 1 hr after sun rise to 15 amps around noon and starts back down to 2 amps near sunset.
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When you get the 4x4 done, borrow a Sunrader and design DIY floor reinforce kit for all the saggy floor Raders out there. The one you have on the 4x4 is way cool.
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Well at this point, I think its safe to say your committed to a rebuild OR maybe you should just be committed?
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Sorry no help, I had a permanent rear bed model.
Propane extend-a-stay
in General Discussion
Posted
The extenda stay goes between the shut off valve and the regulator. The adda tank feeds high pressure propane to the system.