WME
-
Posts
5,658 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by WME
-
-
The RV roof AC's use R-22 or R410 as the fluid. Its a sealed system and requires specialized equipment to "recharge" $$$ and usually not worth recharging an old unit.
SO if its working use and enjoy, if it's not working replace. All the roof AC have a compressor and the main fail point. The start/run caps are a different thing and are easy to replace if they fail.
-
Just go to any of the big box stores and look at the warranties on the sealers. Menards doesn't make the stuff, they just buy it and sell it.
-
Eternabond tape...http://www.eternabond.com/RV-Leak-Repair-Products-s/22.htm
Proseal 34...http://www.prosealproducts.com/productDisplay1.asp-id=278.html
Add a coat of Elastomeric coating for a more permanent fix. a couple of gallons will do the entire roof with two coats...https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/roof-coating/sealbest-white-elastomeric-roof-coating-9-gal/1531811/p-1444444994270-c-5822.htm?tid=-5407131749131224559&ipos=5
Quick and dirty dry in the roof, prevent further damage. Then after you fix the transmission, you can repair the ceiling and any structural damage.at your own pace.
Water will run a long way from the point of leak. Other common leaks are the clearance lights and the roof AC gasket
-
First thing check brake fluid and then brake travel switch on brake pedal.
-
Not a KIA, but in most Volvo's 1982-1990.
I have the Factory service manual for the 1986 PU. If the paper book doesn't have the flow chart give me a PM and we'll talk
-
Is a trip to "Pick a Part" in your future?
Toyota A43D was used in Toyota pickups 1982-1995
-
Sorry the computer decided to attach the post itself and it won't let me delete attachment
-
Midnight at Wal-Mart around here looks like a script from Steven King..
Clanking and banging...yes the stove/oven. But most common is badly worn suspension bushings. NAPA has both poly and rubber replacement kits.A suspension working as designed makes a big improvement in the wind and on windy roads. The Toy homes actually do fairly good in the driving department. Their short comings are are wind and hills Of course some power helps too.
The three bolt header to down tube connection is a sore point for exhaust leaks, especially if the system has been messed with. PS after market down tubes mostly suck, but with a turbo that's a moot point..
Toyota did a factory 22RET turbo set up, so if you want to really lean on the boost there are proper pistons out there.
I switched my headlights to E-spec H4 with the relay setup. Made things almost doable. So says the ex-rally driver, who was used to gigawatt lighting.
Here's an easy fix for the fuel pump hole...https://www.amazon.com/Dovewill-Marine-Round-Inspection-Hatch/dp/B074BSHFGM
-
http://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart
This is a temp vs pressure for a correctly operating system
-
Looks like you have some more electron chasing to do. Your missing quite a few clearance lights. they are a DOT requirement.
-
-
1 hour ago, thewanderlustking said:
I would use another word I probably can't say here... The ground for the "house" battery? Is actual HOUSE wiring. Like solid single strand should be in the wall wire.... I mean WTF?! LOL! If this wire has any place in an "automobile," this would not be the spot for it. MAYBE on the AC side of things. There is an actual house type breaker box in front of the hot water heater. I am afraid to look closer at that.
When I got my Escaper it took me 2 weeks to fix the DC wiring and I did electronics in the military for many years. IN the end it was worth hassle and expense of larger than its supposed be wiring (like 4-8 gauge instead of 8-12 gauge) Long single piece of wire runs were done.
The charge wire from the isolator was 5 or 6 pieces, 2 wire nuts and the just twisted and taped. When I was done I had picked up over 1.25v charging voltage at the battery.
Your headed down the correct path to having a much more enjoyable and relaxed time in your new RV.
The house circuit breaker box is normal install. Should be some thing like a 30 amp main and 2 10 or 15 amp breakers. One for house outlets/ microwave and the other for the roof AC.
Remember this is " how to eat an elephant" stuff
-
1 hour ago, ModocMade said:
"This thing will $20 us into poverty..." that has been my progression for 4 weeks, when I got my Toy, LOL.
WME - 2.5" exhaust sounds like a good thing. Thats what I ran on my Datsun 510 in high school. what kind of muffler did you put on it?
I'm way past the high school glass pack stage😎. What I used was the muffler for a Ford 3/4 ton pickup with a single exhaust and a 460 cid engine. Feeding the muffler with only 144 cubic inches didn't build any back pressure and the noise level was quiet and drone free
-
So how would you describe your wiring, a pile of spaghetti or a rats nest.
Your new BFF's are going to be a voltmeter and a case of beer.
Disconnect the batteries and try using just a separate battery charger. See if they will come back to life.
P.S. How to charge a very dead AGM battery... https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/support/charging/resuscitate-deeply-discharged-battery -
Rear axle changes..http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9743-new-rear-end-gearing-question-456-488-or/.
Weird stuff the battery light can be linked to low brake fluid/emergency brake switch.
The key switch and the electrical contacts are two separate parts
Engine off, the shore power should not charge truck battery, unless you have a high dollar isolator. Got pictures? Take voltage readings at the isolator terminals.
Plan B instead of a turbo...http://www.roadkill.com/toyota-3rz-4-cylinder-engine-swap/#modal-5617
-
More HP and better MPH, you should be working for GM or Ford.😀 There several things that can be accomplished to make things better.
FWIW I went through with my engine. 2.5" exhaust, 270 degree cam, 2mm oversized valves, overbored TB, and a set of flowed injectors. The engine HP dyno computers showed around 135hp. Made things better on the road, I lost a bit from the stop light, but over 15mph things were good. I pulled a 5x8 enclosed trailer for business and that's what the HP was for, especially in the mountains.
Search around here for post about changing the rear axle ratio to 4.88. Makes a big difference.
The problem with more power is the temptation to use it and there goes the mpg.
-
Murphy is not a nice person.
When you pack for an overnighter at a local lake all is good and the Toy runs great. When you pack for a 3 week trip this sort of stuff is what happens. However fixing it at home is BETTER than replacing the alternator in the NAPA parking lot in nowhere SD.
-
Yah skunk water😝. Prevent by draining your system, including the water heater in the winter and a few times in the summer. I use this with a 3x dose for the first time in the spring and a standard dose with each fill up. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-TastePURE-Drinking-Water-Freshener-Prevents-Algae-and-Slime-Build-Up-in-Your-Drinking-Water-Tank-Rids-Odors-and-Bad-Tastes-16-oz-40206/14504326?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1148&adid=22222222227008504182&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40839114032&wl4=pla-78652545272&wl5=9029305&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112562587&wl11=online&wl12=14504326&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2sTTnIa64wIViR-tBh1rQgXwEAQYBSABEgJfjvD_BwE
-
Results from mock up?
-
Take some a little more interesting to the lake or ocean with your Toy https://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/kayak-kits/light-touring-kayaks/shearwater-sport-take-apart-sectional-sea-kayak.html
-
Random string of thoughts
A 91 should have a transmission cooler from the factory, looks like a small radiator about 6x9".
Go to a DIY car wash and blast the radiator clean. Dead bugs is bad for cooling
The factory air flow set up is the trannie cooler is in front, then the AC condenser, last is the radiator.
Air flows through the trannie cooler and gets hotter---but the cooler isn't that big so the AC condenser gets some hot air and a lot of cool air. But the condenser is almost as big as the radiator, so the poor ol radiator gets air that is 50 degrees hotter the air temp. If anything is questionable with the engine cooling system this extra heat becomes "the straw that broke the camels back". Shutting off the cab AC lets cooler air get to the radiator.
Eyeball check, the engine fan should be 1/2 way in/out of the fan shroud. Earball check when you start off cold can you hear the cooling fan kick on when the engine gets HOT? The fan is noisy when it runs. Toyota red coolant and Toyota thermostat.
-
OK If you insist!!!🙄 https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20038531.cfm
There are propane conversions for the small inverter generators
If you screw up a little the generator dies, if you screw up big time you die...
THINK CAREFULLY
-
The problems with an industrial generator in a factory box are multiple.
Exhaust, the box must be fume tight, the actual exhaust must be plumbed to the outside.
How to fuel
Cooling air inlet, hot air outlet.
You can't just stuff a industrial in the factory box and run it. Most folks just store the generator in the box, then remove it and chain it to the bumper. If you really want to run going down the road, bumper mount is about all you can do. Then you have the fuel problems (fill ups and fuel sloshing on the bumps) starting and power cord hookup so it does fall out.
PLAN B. Haunt E-Bay and Craig's list for a used Onan 2800 that's close enough so you can drive to pick it up. Shipping on something this size is mega$$.
IMHO you DO NOT WANT A KOHLER 2800, they're loud, shake and parts are almost nonexistent.
-
Welcome to the world of Toy Houses. 3 kids and a wife are going to be a bit crowed. Fresh water and waste water are going to your limits so a little water conservation training will be needed.
Your questions.
1. The 12v side of the house will run everything you want, with adapters, but the AC and Refer. The refer will run off propane while traveling and boondocking. In an RV park it will run off the 110v ac shore power. The AC will require a generator. The factory install was an Onan 2800 Micro Lite. So a 3000 w generator would work great, get an inverter style genset.. Where do you plan on mounting it? Portable generators don't work well when stuffed in the factory gen box. You may need a booster to start the AC. Good, Better, Best would be a Hot Shot starter cap, then a RV AC starter kit from Appliance and Air, best is the Easy Start from Micro Air.
2. Awnings are pretty much standard prices. $800+. DIY install or do you want a shop to do it, shop labor is $80 an hour and up.
3. Most of us just go to a big box home store and buy a roll of Reflectix. It looks like chromed bubble wrap. Use Velcro and cut your own window shades. In very hot or very cold situations we will hang a blanket from the bunk to block off the cab area, it helps to reduce energy needs, heat or cool.
Have fun and remember to travel the blue line roads
Tire installation on dual rear done wrong
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted · Edited by WME
Get out your lug wrench and tighten up the lug nuts ASAP, Do not drive until this is done.
Actual damage is usually just the studs and nuts. Your looking at $200-300 in repair costs. You have to remove the axle to replace the studs, lots of labor, the parts will be the least of your expenses. The shop that caused the problem should be responsible for the repairs.
The damage is the wobbling rim will mangle the threads that it rubs against. This reduces the amount of good threads that the lug nut has, the clamping force on the rims is reduced and could result in more wobbles in the future. Where ever you go for the repair have the shop remove the wheels and YOU inspect the threads, a damaged thread is probably OK, but 3 or more is bad