WME
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Posts posted by WME
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Its not so much a bad brand of Toy MH, as it just bad individual ones.
An 86 would have had the bad axle, but should have been up graded in the recall. My 86 has the 5 bolt front and the six bolt full floater rear. Just check your rear axle, better yet call and see before your new one is delivered.
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Rats, I just got the word from "Higher HQ" gotta have a bath and toilet. So guess we keep the Escaper.
Maybe I do need some thing to play with
as a hobby -
Thats blown as in Kauput, not as in Blew.
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Hey Nolan:
Just what is involved in mounting a Chinook body on a normal chassis? I know where both halfs of the equation are.
A mid 80 4x4 with a blown engine and a Chinook that has not moved in 3 years, it even has 4 flat tires.
Man this kind of thinking sure can cause problems
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Maybe, that rig is just way to cool.
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Depends on how dlx your generator setup is.
The basic ones require you to plug in the 30 amp shore power cord into a generator power outlet box. Its usually some where near the cubby where the shore power cord is keep.
The dlx ones have an auto transfer switch, or you can add one for about $100
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OK and how does your basic old fashioned brake system work???
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Bypassed ????
On my setup the valve just limits pressure to the rear, so a simple coupler would be all thats needed.
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What Nolan says, I've just put a big kink in the control rod so that I get full rear breaking all the time.
My rear axle weight is heaver than most Toy pickups, so I figured I was OK.
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Remove the coach battery lead from the isolater and connect everything to the same post. I've gone 200 mi with a dead alt and EFi with no problem.
I "THINK" my house battery would run the fuel pump for about 10 hr, but I ani't gonna try it just to see.
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Many of the frame extensions are weak. Two bikes is one thing but a couple hundred lb of stuff is not a good idea. Its not so much the weight as it the overloads caused by the bumps, g-forces and all that.
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Use some 2x2 inside, make a cross piece aboput 2 ft or so. Place the cross piece side ways inside on the cealing, use a jack and a shorter peice of 2x2 to jack up the roof about 1-1.5 in. Cut another 2x2 the right length to suport the roof with out the jack. May need to do this to each end of the A/C.
See if you can place the supports in somewhere they arn't in the way.
I do this to mine (about .5") each winter to support the snow load under the tarp.
This is only a temp thing for you.
Or maybe a syphion hose taped to the roof low spot and drain it as it it rains.
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Bad link!
www.stocktonwheel.com -
Well now you know where to stick it.
Mine goes in from the side. -
If the spare tire is under the rear of your Toy, then its on the factoru mount. You should in your Toy for a long handle crank. There is a socket in the passanger side above the tire, stick in the handlke and crank your spare down. If typical of old Toys you may need to clean and oil things a bit before hand.
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www.stocktonwheels.com
If they don't got it, they can make it. You just have to PAY.
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Run it for a while with a big load on it, say the A/C or a couple of heaters pluged in the generator direct. Also make sure the oil level is correct.
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OK what ever trips your trigger, one party tent it is.
I spent way to much time living in tents, I like my A/C and generator. Roughing it is B&W TV
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So the goal of this rebuild is like a hard wall portable tent???
You removed the plumbing, gas , stove and water.
Where do you get the support stuff, cooking, bathing??
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The problem child is the older NON lock up trannie. In O/D even though the engine is turning less RPM, the drag of a M/H causes you to press the throttle down more. With the increased torque the converter slips more and that is what makes the heat. If you have a lock up converter then no slip and no extra heat.
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Most of us with auto, just leave the O/D off unless you have a big tail wind or are going down hill.
Folks with temp gauges on the trannie report a large increase in transmission temp when using O/D
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Good to have the skills to do this. But you have way to much spare time on your hands.
I only get one mod a year done. Last year was a mild hot rod engine, year before was solar and 210mah of batteries
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The blue knob is NOT the control valve. The main valve (only shut off ) is on the tank. The line to the regulator comes from main valve. The blue knob should be tight and left alone. This is a single stage regulator and under cool humid condictions they can ice up. That is why most newer units have a two stage regulator.
At this point you should go to an RV repair shop have them install a two stage regulator and check the entire system.
If you don't understand your propane system messing around with it is a good way to make a big bang.
WME
I am not sure on what type it is but I have added a picture of it. The blue knob can be tightend down, it appears to me to be some sort of flow control for the vent. It was tightend all the way. I am assuming that shut off any ventilation. Hope this helps. Thanks
Andy
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Vent valve??????
With the master valve turned on the entire system has gas pressure in it. Even if you are not using anything.
Is your regulator a single stage or a two stage??
as a hobby
www.stocktonwheel.com
Mine goes in from the side.
extended camping trip
in General Discussion
Posted
The Pop Tops get the best gas milage and have the simplest setup engine and truck wise.
They don't have holding tanks or toilet or shower, so you would be spending lots of time in RV parks. Though some carry a porti potty
You basicaly get a bed, table, heater, simple stove,ice box (though some do have refers) and a single faucet sink ( cold water only). The sink drains into a tank you hook up outside each time you want to use it.
In Yahoo groups there is a group for Boondocking that may have ideas about simplicity