WME

Know the feeling I had to repair a gray tank in the rain. Had to much spread out to quit.

No pictures, but most of the Toys have the simple roof A/C. The controls, fan and temp, are on the ceiling panel.

You both blew it, never leave home with out it. IT=duct tape. One other thing is a piece of inner tube. With hose clamps and bailing wire you can make a repair on a radiator hose.

Travel, yesss, get license plate, nooo. Live there with "foreign" license plate NO WAY DUDE

Is it noisie because of bearing squeal or is it just the blowing air. ?? If its the air flow and fan making the noise then you just will have to get used to it.

Winter travel is easy, IF its only going to be on the mid 20s then opening the cabnet doors to let warm air get to the water tank and IF the plumbing runs inside too then your OK. Outside plumbing means that you have a problem. Put some RV antifreeze in both holding tanks when you stop so that the valves wont freeze. Most of us who winterize deal with very cold temps and the RV is stored long term. Different rules for you in Ca.

www.radiatorbarn.com The stock radiator is a two row, the barn usually has a 3 row that will bolt in. Installs have ranged from bolt in to a a minor shade tree mech job.

With a shortie Toy, weight it front and rear. Some of them are light enough that you can get a single 15" rim and run a little larger tire. The 15" tires will carry 1700lb ea in a single mode. So if your rear axle weight is around 2500 lb you have enough spare carring capicity. Even then I would put in new bearings and have the axles crack checked. WME

I'm not sure when it started, but for several years you had a choice..... Generator or spare tire, microwave or spare tire, roof AC or spare... you get the idea I'm sure.. Seems everything put Your Toy over the weight limits.

Blow out the lines using an adapter you can get from any rv store. Drain water tanks, heater. Using the adaptor you use an air compresser you can blow all the water out of the lines. shower and toilet. Pour RV anti freeze in sinks and the toilet bowl.

If you can get a EFI pressure gauge intall it and got for a drive. See how low the pressure gets going up hill vs level ground

Well it could be, but the cheap answer is a bad gas cap vent. Next time it starts missing just open the gas cap for a few seconds and keep driving and see if the miss clears up for a while. If it makes no diff then you are back to the fuel pump OR a bad fuel filter.

Go to Onan .com and down load the manual

Toyota 22RET pistions, a lower compression ratio make keep things together longer

www.stocktonwheel.com

The offical rated towing capicity of any Toyota MH is 0 lb Unofficaly I tow a 5x8 enclosed trailer, it weighs in the 900 lb range. It also has electric brakes and the 4cylinder 22re has a mild hot rod job on it.

How big is it and how much does it weigh?? Tries have come a ways since 1983. There are single 15" rims and wheel combos that will safely carry 1700lb per wheel. You might check in to repairing the stock axle and running a single wheel per side. If your rig weighs less than about 2900lb on the rear this would be doable. Over 3000lb and not enough spare weight capicity for "stuff" Best bet is the internet and a 1 ton axle for a sure fix.

Most don't have a manual. For the truck get a Chiltons or haynes for the normal stuff. For the camper its just the indivdual instructions.

1 Well as long as your going surfing and not sking the 4 cyl does just fine 2 On the coast route at 55 mph, the goal of 14mpg is very possible with a well tuned 4 cyl 3. Your budget will put you in the 87 and newer range, thats good cause then you don't need to worry about the axle thing.. 4 Mold, mildew, funny smells and soft spots. Make sure ALL the apliences work or make adjustments in $$$ 5 Lots of these Toys with 75,000 + mi on then, even a bunck with 100,000. Just depends on how it was cared for Go to the Yahoo groups site there is a check list in the file section. Good Hunting. WME PS 4x4s fall in the hens teeth bracket

The factory book I have has the standard axle seal at the outer end of the axle. " remove seal, remove bearing, install is reverse" Also it makes a big deal out of pacing the 1 ton bearings. Nothing about the standard bearring. I was just going by the book, never had a standard axle apart. Oh well I 'll give this one to you

Standard axle is splashed lubed. The 1 ton is as you thought. If you have oil coming out then the seal is shot.

Get a Chilton's for the same year pickup. Usually there is not a manuel for the camper, what you get is a bunch of manufacture instructions for each of the "things" in the camper...stove, refer, heater etc..

OLD trick, take kids side walk chalk and make a line across the tread and drive a 1/2 mile in a streight line. Adjust tire pressure untill the chalk wears even across the width of the tread.

If you are going to do all 6 then go with the crowd. 185R 14 LT load rating D or in new tire speak 102-104 195 do fit the uprated axle and rims but you have to be careful with air pressure. If it gets to low the tires rub on the inside and may blow out.

The full floater had a special 6 bolt pattern with special offset 6bolt rims. So if your salvage yard gets you the correct axle, make sure they get the rims (4) also