WME
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Posts posted by WME
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The "classic"gauges are fuel, water temp, volt/amp, oil pressure. Don't forget maybe a tach.
You already have the fuel, water temp ones and trannie temp in the add on cluster so of amps/ oil pressure, I would say oil pressure and a tach.
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Craigs List, Recycler and E-bay are about your choices. Just wait and watch
Also look for Sand-tana or Grandsport (sp) both are a different style pop top.
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1 Buy an ONAN and be happy, it will run the standard 13.5k btu roof A/C
2 Buy a smaller 9K btu roof A/C and a Honda 2kw generator for less $$ than an ONAN. Works in most places, except maybe the summer desert.
Neither one will run a microwave and the A/C at the same time
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You need a tach to set idle RPM in neutral. 750 rpm.
You can flatten a Coke can and cut a strip. Then loosen the two bolts on the back of the intake where the EGR line connects. Slip in the flattened aluminum and tighten the bolts. You have just complectly sealed the intake from a leaking EGR. Does it drive right? If not remove the aluminum cause the EGR is not the problem. If it fixes it then you hare to remove the ERG assy and clean out the crud.
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If its the orginal engine, its a real crap shoot. In a car it would still be usefull, but luging a house around kinda shorten its life. Do a compression check and a cylinder leakage test and see what they show.
Worse case is its about $2000 for a rebuilt engine, less if you do it your self. So price your offer accordingly
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I DO!!! The Fram PN is PH 3600, I don't use Fram but the number will cross to what every brand you use.. It hold about 2x the oil of the stock filter.
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Keith can you say dingle ball hone?? I had oil consumption of 600 mi to the qt. I did an "inframe" overhaul in my driveway using a ball hone and Hastings rings. Drove if carefully around town for a couple of weeks. Now its 4000mi to the qt.
I don't like to use long stone hones on cylinders that have not been bored.
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Last any body reported a new V-6 installed was $6000. $2000 of that was labor.
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The carpet is layed down first then all the furniture is built in over the carpet. So unless you are going to remove everything, just cut arount the edges and pull it up.
Ain't joking about the number of staples, an your going to ruin the carpet getting it out. Many of us lay new plywood and then use vinyl flooring, cause its so easy to clean.
Using my Toy in the winter here in Wyoming I decided to go a step further. I removed the carpet. Cleaned everything good and glued down a 1/2" ridged foam sub floor. Then glued and screwed down a 1/2" 7 ply flooring. THEN on went the vinyl flooring. Stronger, quieter and warmer than stock. I use runner rugs to make things better. I lost an inch of head room but thats no problem for me.
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IFIN your careful you can do the headgasket with out removing the timingcover and all the stuff there. But maybe its a good time to do the timing chain and all that stuff there.
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Replace it...... If you up on mech skills there are rebuild kits for the pump part.
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Air wont freeze
What you worry about is water trapped somewhere, in the pump, in the toilet valve or the shower valve. A little water in a line has room to expand so its mostly OK.A 1/4 full water heater is normaly OK. Stuff in the bottom of a holding tank is OK
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The rims are not LT, just the tire. The 185 LT tire is designed for a 5.5" wide rim. It will work on a 5-6" wide rim.
Can you post some pictures of your rear and tires and rims?
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Have you cleaned the the TB and all the little air bleed holes. It makes a big difference.
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My toy is an 86 and has power brakes, so a 91 should also. To check just remove and plug the vacuumn hose going to the booster. The go for a slow drive around the block, then hook the hose back up and see if there is any change.
Also many of us have readjusted or defeted the rear brake bais valve. This lets the rear brakes to their share of the stopping
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On an 22RE there is no idle mix screw. Its all done by the computer and EFI.
Have you ever checked to see if there are any trouble codes stored in the computer???
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Pagoo do you have total of 4 tires in the back (2 on each axle) or 6 tires?? ( 4 and 2???)
Have you ever taken your Toy to a truck scale and weighed things?? This will help you to decide which tire to get because you know how much weight the rears have to carry. The sticker doesn't mean much after 25+ years, to many chances for owner "improvements".
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Not going to get into this over what tire to use, BUT there were LT tires in 1979 and earlier.
Michelin made them for the VW Combi campers.
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Some folks with out a manual to check, think the throttle stop screw is the idle speed screw. It will screw things up if used that way.
So set it right and adjust idle speed with the correct screw.
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Its simple to do but a PIA. You need some sort of scaffold, because walking on the roof of an old Toy is not a good idea.
Just remove the inside bolts that hold the A/C. Tip up the A/C on the roof, clean off the old gasket, install the new gasket. MAKE SURE the new gasket has no cracks or rips. Lower down A/C and rebolt it from the inside.
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Doing the valve seals with the head on the engine is ALMOST impossible. The camshaft mounting bolts are the head bolts. Removing them means that if you use air pressure to hold up the valves when you replace the seal you can blow the head lose
So ya'all be careful
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You will get a check engine light and a error code when its time.
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Cracks can be repaired, if the tank is missing parts then its Time to replace.
I have repaired my gray water tank. I went to Walmart and got some RV/Outdoor Goop and a roll of self sticking fiberglass drywall tape. Make sure the tank is dry before patching
Clean the cracked area GOOD, drill a crack stop hole at each end of the crack, run a bead of Goop along the crack, work in a layer of the drywall tape, more goop over the whole peice of tape, let dry. Second layer of tape and Goop.
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Oh you mean nobody mentioned the staples???
What you worry about is water trapped somewhere, in the pump, in the toilet valve or the shower valve. A little water in a line has room to expand so its mostly OK.
'82 Sandtana Leaf Springs / Suspension
in General Discussion
Posted
I'd head to a wrecking yard and get a spring stack from an 82 pickup. Use what you need to put yours back together. install airbags to get it to ride level and use good HD shocks.
Spring breakage is rare, but if you just gotta have new stuff, just look in the phone book under truck springs. Most cities have suspension shops that can order/build correct spring stacks