WME
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Posts posted by WME
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Do you have a solenoid isolator (35mm film can) or a diode type (box with fins)??
AGAIN check battery polarity.
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This is hard over the net, but here goes...
1. Get a cheap voltmeter, https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html
2. Check the polarity of the house battery. "NORMAL" color code does not apply to RV's. "Standard" RV colors are white is ground and black is +. House batteries are often hooked up wrong. Using the ohm function on the meter will let you check the ground
3. Find the click, if the batteries are wired OK then you may have a bad circuit breaker. Most of them in the 12v wiring are auto reset so you get the clicking when they reset and then trip again and again. Most of them look like this, with a metal or plastic case. https://www.delcity.net/store/Auto-Reset-Circuit-Breakers-!-12-volt/p_198669
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Broken/jammed transmission shifter cable. It goes from the throttle body to the transmission.
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With the sway-bar arm horizontal, the end link needs to be vertical as possible in all directions.
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I had "problems" with the lock screws, to expedite return to service I used a set of cup point set screws. Worked out fine.
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Anybody remember "Gas Wars" between stations?
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Set the parking brake HARD, then release it. Crawl under the rig and check the tension on each side of the emergency brake cable.
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A fillet knife, long slow cuts should cut through the goop. Also a hacksaw blade with tape around one end for a handle works too, just set up the blade so it cuts on the pull stroke.
Unless the 3 bolts form a triangle, 1 to the front and 2 in the back.. or the other way. There are normally 4 bolts in an AC.
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Weird Sh*t.
The rubber hose going from the frame to the T near the differential. It's torn inside and will act 1 way check valve.
As I remember the self adjuster works when you back up and apply the brakes.
New brake cylinders or DIY rebuilt?
A couple of correct sized brass T and some line caps you can remove the pressure valve
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Linda's copper/brass radiator is listed for $196 from Summit.
Here is a Champion all aluminum tig welded, listed factory direct $195...https://www.championradiators.com/Toyota-Pickup-4Runner-Radiator
built in auto transmission cooler
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Tonight's reading assignment.
Trannie coolers...https://transmissioncoolerguide.com/transmission-cooler-types/
Radiators...https://radiatorexpress.force.com/Help/s/article/why-are-aluminum-radiators-better-than-copperbrass2
I used a B&M stacked plate cooler
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Are you planning an air cooled trannie cooler? Your's HAD/HAS a cooler built into the lower radiator. On mine I ran both. Because I had to travel in the winter (winter here is below 0). I went to the air cooler first, then to the build in radiator cooler. The radiator cooler would warm the fluid a bit to keep the trannie happier. In the summer the air cooler would keep a lot of heat out of the system.
Where the temp sender ?? Temp is the killer for ATF so you want to measure the maximum temp.
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Been there and done that. That place was a watering hole for overheated cars. There was a small spring fed stone cistern. It had a sign "non potable water, not for human consumption". Drank from it many times as a kid, never got sick. 🤢 The water tasted better than what came out of the cooler bag.
The folks car was a 1952 Buick special. Inline 8 and a 2 speed DynaFlow transmission. My dad bought is from his brother who worked for American Pipe. They were laying large pipes and aqueducts to bring Colorado River water to LA. First time the car overheated on him going across the desert, he took it to their truck repair and told the shop foreman to put a bigger radiator in it so it would not do that again. It ended up with a truck radiator in it, no more heat problems. He told the shop that he needed a good hitch to pull his trailer from job site to job site. Same over kill it was a 6" c channel that was welded to the frame in 6 places. That car was unstoppable as long as you could keep gas in it.
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Rule 1 of things, never build a house during a pandemic ! We sold our house instantly and then faced multiple delays. Early on I just drove to the propane dealer, but after I skirted it for winter, moving was no longer possible. So I cobbled us an extend a stay thingie .
I mounted a 1/4" T fitting on the output of the regulator. Then a 5ft hose to another regulator with a fitting for an OPD cylinder. Pre made hoses with proper fittings are readily available at the farm supply stores. Closing the main tank valve prevented any back flow through the main regulator.
FWIW the rig is a 30ft Class A, we ran a 1500w electric heater 24/7. The outside temp averaged 10 degrees in the day and -5 at night. We managed 5 days per 20lb tank.
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6 hours ago, Maineah said:
I have seen vertical mount carriers for RV's!
I built one for my class A, I think the Kayak would stick up into the airflow with a Toy House.
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This might be to answer to boating with a Toyota MH
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Ah yes, nothing like the smell of 30 year old rear axle lube.
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Here's an afternoon reading. Victron makes everything EVERYTHING you will EVER need for your RV 12v system.🤡.
https://www.victronenergy.com/
Bring your credit card and checkbook.
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I dealt with my local locksmith and the Walmart camping department. Ended up with 3 keys for everything. Toyota key for ignition and cab doors. Deadbolt key for camper door and the same key for all compartment doors.
The deadbolt is way stronger than the factory door handle, so I never locked it.
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Perfect rig, lets you carry your 18ft Sunrader as a spare.
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Here ya go. Easy peasy of you have a jack and jack stands...https://www.moderndriveline.com/how-to-determine-your-rear-axle-ratio/
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The "ring thingie" looks suspiciously like a well nut. You may end up just grinding the screw head off, remove the wires and then push the screw in to release the nut. Then start all over with new stuff.
Its highly unlikely that the screws will unscrew, after 20 years of corrosion from gungy water.
You seem to have 2 styles of sensors a common well nut...https://www.ebay.com/itm/202053992620?hash=item2f0b5b40ac:g:Yk4AAOSwfhNcpqDn
The other seems to be an actual blind rv sensor...https://www.ebay.com/itm/273945383824?hash=item3fc86ad390:g:RIUAAOSw7OFdOzt9
A double order of the real rv sensors would be the best, but obliviously plain well nuts seem to have work for a long time
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Well if things get weird, a regular drill bit from the back side will unscrew it too.
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Broken bolt... vice grips from the back side???]
I don't know your local tool store situation, but try a left hand drill. It may actually unscrew the bolt or at least give you a good start for an easy out.
Some help for the next guy🙄 use some fine sandpaper and derust the cones and seats in the axle, maybe a tiny dab of anti seize. Somebody will love you for that bit of help
Help from the road - isolator clicking when on 12v fridge; lights dim when multiple on
in Electrical
Posted
Use a separate battery charger on the house battery, charge it for 24 HR. Measure voltage as soon as you remove the charger. Measure the voltage again after 12 HR.
13.5 v + off charge, 12.5v + after 12 HR of rest. That will test the battery.
The alternator is a simpler test 13.7v + when engine is running.