WME
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Posts posted by WME
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Before you spent bucks on it, what rear axle does it have. Take a picture of the rear wheel assembly with out hub cap and post it.
The easist up rate for a 20r is swap in a 22r and a Weber carb.
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Lots of lube is important. If you run out use Pennzoil outboard lower gearcase lube, AKA blue whale snot.
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The rear bushings are all the same, but there two different front sizes.
I used parts from Energy Suspension. PN 8.2107
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http://www.frugal-mariner.com/Insulating.html
For ideas, fiberglass Sailboats have a lot in common with Sunrader's
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Bryan sounds like you might want to make the windows a bit oversized. Then they could be sanded to size. It seem that the cutouts in a Rader were cut by eyeball.
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Rule 1. There are no bad Toyhome MFGs, only bad previous owners. Don't buy the P/Os problems.
Rule 2. Get the floor plan you want, DON'T plan on redoing one to your tastes. Make sure its equipped the way you want it, adding a gen set is $2000
Rule 3. Make sure you check that everything works. A new refer is $800.00
Rule 4. No matter what you get its going to cost at least $500 to fix stuff.
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There a bunch of small hoses and tiny ports (air bleeds)in the area of the butterfly. Mark the hoses and remove them and then squirt in all the ports. Some of the ports are connected to temp sensitive devices which explains why it operates different at different temps
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Google peltier coolers.
I found a 52 qt Kooltron for $165 @ compactappliance .com
A peltier cooling module can shift the temp about 40 deg from ambient. Cool or heat by reversing the polarity of the 12v source
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This whole thread is "much ado about nothing"
Things are working as designed.
Half scale means not much, you need a calabrated gauge to see what temps your talking about.
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In D at 3200 rpm your going 61mph with a 4.10 rear end.... in D at 3200 RPM your going 52MPH with a 4.88 rear gear.
In OD with a 4.88 your going 62mph with the engine turning 2700 rpm.
For O/D to equal D you would need a 5.70 (or so) ratio
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My new coach has a twist to lock handle, with a key to lock. You can just close it without locking it.
Check out PPL web site for compartment locks, they make some that use a combo to lock
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Everything is working according to plan.
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Go to PPL motor homes and look for holding tank repair kits. I've use VersaChem one and it was still good when I sold the unit.
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Based on what Ive read, the 4.88 is a good deal with the automatic. The mpg remains about the same, but its becomes easier to drive.
I DON"T know if it would pull OD hauling your planned trailer setup, with a trailer you might end up going about 55-60 with out OD. So if your trailering a bunch then maybe the 4.56 would be better. You might just leave it with a stock 4.10 and never use the OD at all, even empty. That's what most of the 4 cyl owners do anyway.
Ive pulled a 5x8 enclosed cargo trailer over a 9600 ft pass several times with the stock ratio. The possibility of not being able to pull OD with the trailer is why I stuck with the factory ratio as 80% of my driving was with the trailer, and 55mph just won't cut it on I80 through Wy.
The Toyota Mini Motorhome group has a gear/mph calculator in the files section. It will give you something to play with, in trying to decide.
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Just to muddy the waters a bit. In the "old" days a lot of European cars had an optional O/D of 20%. Most of the time the company changed the final drive ratio, like from a 4.10 to a 4.30. You were still turning slower rpm in O/D but your acceleration was more "sporting".
So a 4.56 and a 5sp would follow the same logic.
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Take the locks apart, remove all the pins. OR just JB Weld a key in place
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http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com
They have a bunch of surplus engines and short-blocks. A 6hp Tecumseh short-block is $95.
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Get a locking gas cap. Put the key on the same ring that has the MH key. When filling up remove the gas cap and leave the key in it. You can't drive off this way.
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The shower stuff is called FRP.
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www.rvsg.com
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Would pictures make a beliver out of you, see post 39 and follow the link.
There some cheats that help, but dont fix the problems. Like running 10-15 lbs more air in the inner tire, not super good for tire life, but better for the axle. A lot of mfg's said replace rear bearings every 30,000mi.
The T100 axle sounds like a good possibilty if your weight is OK.
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Http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1132 18 ft axle failure
Can't find the other failure in archives, but the wheels came through the wheel well and ended up inside, tore up a lot of stuff.
Lisa try a refuse site(dump), farmer coop, gravel pit. The scale is a single unit you drive the front axle on and get a weight, then drive forward a bit, weigh both axles and then drive forward and weigh the rear one.
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What is your batt voltage when you try to start.
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The last 2 reports, here, of broken axles were 18 footers. PLAN ACCORDINGLY.
WME
FullyHuman:
It's a 18' Sunrader? If yes, you're OK with the original axle. The 18 Sunrader is one of the great classic Toyota Motorhomes, I've never heard of one breaking an axle...certainly not within the last 20 years. Just keep it light. They'll run 200,000 miles or more.
Don't let that "death trap" crap scare you. Get out there on the road and HAVE FUN with it.
Remove and remount Sunrader onto different chassisIi
in General Discussion
Posted
Your Sunrader has a piece of plywood glassed in as the floor. Over time it delamiates and the floor gets soft. The mfg didn't put enough floor braces in.
Just scroll down a bunch and find the thread "Put the sawzall down". Most questions could be answered. Maybe do the reverse and make your Sunrader bigger