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Posts posted by WME
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Yes I have a 10ft hose in my bumper. They collapse a lot. It goes on the side with OUT the brake receptacle.
WME
Yeah I'm still in Iraq and won't be home until end of July. I'm just getting ideas for now. To WME does your stinky hose fit inside the new bumper? I'm thinking of replacing the whole bumper and I like your setup. Just wondering with the reciever at the halfway point in the bumper if the hose still fits in there.
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Yeah I guess you're right. I'm planning on some fabrication and welding. Just looking for ideas and lessons learned by others. It's much easier when you get good input from those before you.
Thanks
Paul
If you look at the Powder River Pass picture you will see that the Toy and the trailer are level. I won't tell you how much coffee it took to accomplish that.
On my hitch the receiver goes through the bumper for ground clearance, same with the power receptacle. The bumper caries the load. But if you look the receiver goes forward to a cross bar. The crossbar take the twisting load caused by the hitch ball being extended from the bumper.
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To many naysayers. But bolting on a hitch is not how its done. It took a week to design mine. A day to cut and weld.
Its a 3/16" 4x4 tubing and 1/8" 2x4 frame reinforcements
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Yes its vented, that why I said you did not need to open a window in cold weather. Helps keep things warmer.
There a bunch of different type of RV heaters, each one fills a need. Me, I just went solar, big batteries and just use the propane furnace
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Here is an alternative to leaving the window open in real cold, and still having a very low draw heater.
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What he said.
The rebuild company may make a HD version, but Toyota never did.
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The isolator will not allow the charger to charge the coach battery if it's hooked up to the truck battery. A simple jumper wire with alligator clips to bypass the isolator would do it for long term storage with a battery tender. With the relay type jumper both large posts, with the solid state one jumper posts one and two. The current is small a #14 wire would be sufficient. Don't forget to remove it or you might end up with a dead truck battery when you go camping because it defeats the isolator!
I made my jumper out of a in-line fuse adapter. Installed a 5 amp fuse. That way the charger will keep the truck battery up and if I FORGET to remove the fuse it just pops when you start the first time.
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Fit? yes.... Bolt-in NO
Its wider than stock so you can run a single rear tire and have agood fit under the house. Check the WMS to be sure, 66.75"
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OK, proceed with due caution Its helpful to take a picture of things before you remove it. That way you can just run the film backwards to get it together.
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Hang a "remove before flight" ribbon from the crank or attach one to the ignition key.
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If you don't know what the valve cover looks like ....STOP. Get a maintenance book or find a friend who does simple mechanical stuff, better yet do both.
The valve cover is a simple remove,BUT there lots of hoses and things to mess up. Not the best place to experiment.
P.S. its that big shiny aluminum thing on top of the engine where you add the oil.
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Take the valve cover off and look, not a big deal. You can see the chain, upper sprocket. Use a flashlight to look at the guides one on each side.
The 85 MAY have Twin row chain depending on the actual year of the chassis, as 84/85 was the change over year
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/932151036/pic/list
The last one is my rig, Powder River Pass, 9660 ft.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/1700673623/pic/list
my hitch
WME
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Sit on your wallet for now. Spend the summer looking and learning.
Late summer, early fall things will be much cheaper.
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It take less time to pull the axles on a 1 ton than to drop the driveshaft. Use a wad of towels and duct tape to keep the lube in.
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You do know that Velvac is still in business and you can get new replacements?? Of course they are a BIT more.
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What your experiencing is known as converter stall. It is NOT a failure of anything.
You just don't have enough power to get things moving under a heavy load condition.
All the cures are $$$. They are......
1. Bigger engine, reduces MPG
2. A high stall torque converter, reduces MPG
3. A higher rear axle ratio I.E. instead of your 4.1 install a 4.88, reduces MPG
4 Fix your driveway, same mpg
The first thing to due is a complete tuneup on your engine to make sure its giving you the most power it can. Increasing MPG
Your starting with 108 hp and loose 3% for every 1000ft of altitude density. In the summer in Denver at 90 degrees your down about 28% so your working with about 75hp.
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Some systems have a check valve in the hot out from the heater. What it does is prevent the splash of cold water you get when your are using the shower and you stop the flow at the shower head for a bit.
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Air shocks = bad
Air bags = good
New shocks (4) = good.
Air shocks are bad because they place the load on the shock mounts, the airbags place the load on the springs or axle.
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Those peltier coolers are a great deal less expensive that's for sure. Do you use yours as an auxiliary fridge to your propane one or just for road trips in your car/truck for snacks/drinks?
We use ours more as a heater, works well with Meatball subs.
WME
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The correct procedure is to use 2 6v batteries in series. They will charge better than 2 12v in parallel
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Have you removed the load on the rear shackles? You might try a pulley puller to push the bolt out.
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Scroll up the the pinned post about LSPV that may be your problem and not the actual adjustment of the rear brakes.
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What size, what brand?? PPL has the Elixir 17x24 hatch cover for about $75.
Hot floor under gas pedal
in General Discussion
Posted
Remove the seats and carpet. Get a roll of refeletix from Lowe's. Install 1 layer over the entire cab floor. Install a second layer over the tranny tunnel and drivers floor. Reinstall carpet and seats.
It will be quieter and cooler.
P.S. Isn't driving in bare feet illegal in CA?