WME
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Posts posted by WME
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No doubt that LED put more light down the road, but they consume more power than a HID. So it depends on what your needs are, HIDs also put a lot of light down the road and are 1/4 the cost. Be warned some of the cheaper HID lamps are not carefully built and have a focus problem.
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The Honda 2000 will run most microwaves and will run the smaller 9000 BTU A/C. It will not run the "standard" 13,500 BTU A/C. It will not run the microwave and A/C at the same time
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Let me count the reasons. Moose, Elk, deer, antelope, mountain goat, cows. Too much light, is barely enough
With the typical leisurely cruising speed of 55mph, I don't really see too much need to have headlights that light up the road 2 miles away.
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H4 is about 60 watts, HID is about 35 watts, LED is about 40 watts. Real numbers vs hype
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5x7 LED lights are about $225 ea. To save power and get more light (than stock) for less$$ look for 6000K HID light conversions they should be about $100 a set
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Just for grins and giggles, if you haven't returned the new one. Take a ohm meter and measure your old one vs the new one. See if the reading are reversed.
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Ive used the Bosch platium single tip with good results. Not a fan of multi tip plugs
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Sensors/switchs also. No peltier
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When you stall the torque converter in an automatic, you have 2 choices more HP or steeper rear gears. Another 50 hp will help or/and going from a 4.10 to a 4.88 will help a bunch.
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Yes reversing the wires at the connector is easy and should solve the problem. One wire is the high resistance end of the sensor and the other is the low resistance end. Just give the gauge what it wants for a full tank.
Between pins 1&3 you should have less than 5 ohms when "full" and 110 ohms when "empty"
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I have installed several on different RVs. They do make a big diff in very hot weather.
Once installed its all automatic, no worries
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Internal ONAN micro 2800, also available as an camper external...big$$$$$
Get 9000 BTU micro A/C and a Honda 2000 for external mount.
Box for Honda http://www.kshmarine...nerator_box.htm
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My Escaper has corrugated fiberglass sides. There is about a 2" overlap at each joint. The seams are horizontal. Unless you live where it rains up most of the time, the only thing you would gain is a lot of ugly.
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go to Ebay and search Toyota dually, also craigslist.
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Nope, Ming Cycle of Taiwan bought Stridia in 2007
In this case it would be Chinese ripping of the British. The Strida is a UK product. Used to be the Strida company not even sell them to anyone in the US. The first one my friend purchased he had to get a friend in the UK to buy it for him and then ship it to him.
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Is nothing sacred anymore, Chinese ripping off Chinese
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I have a small wind turbine. have yet to try it though... the HF solar panels more than bring my bank up to 100% each day even in rain.
Thats the magic formula. panels match battery bank and load. Thats why one size doesn't fit all uses. Without facts its just a SWAG
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Calibrate the gauge. Just bend the float arm a bit so that it will barely touch the bottom of the tank when it empty. OR maybe just a bit off the bottom just in case.
That way you will know how much gas is left and wont have to wonder if there is any gas left when the gauge is down to E
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Weigh it and then go get the door sticker from a 4x2 and install. Then you will have 7k truck
Check some PN and see what difference there is in springs, shocks and brakes. That will allow some real comparisons and let you figure out how much you would be over in reality.
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About the best is get DISH or Direct network and a booster antenna for WiFi. There is a satellite service for the Internet but its is not unlimited and is expensive.
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I'm sure its been mentioned before, but a couple of things
1. For max battery life do not discharge below 50% of rated capacity
2. Inverters draw power even when "off". So unplug it or put a dc switch in the power lead to it.
Your real answer is an additional house battery and at least 100w of solar.
Actually you need professional advice on a complete solar system and then buy it in parts as your budget allows
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I found a 3/4" nylon plug for my w/h, that way I don't have to worry about it corroding stuck
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Go to your local RV place and buy a heater bypass kit and a antifreeze siphon kit.
It will take less than 2 gallons to winterize a Toy. Keep the left over antifreeze in case you want to use the RV in the winter.
If you drain ALL of your tanks there is nothing left to freeze. As part of the winterize program you will end up with antifreeze in all your tanks (except fresh water) it will pool around the waste valves and protect them.
Don't forget the drains in the sinks and shower.
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I think the stock set up was a latch on each side on the front and 2 latches on the rear. They had a ring for a lock to keep things secure.
You might try looking around the tent trailer section for parts that would work.
Know how to use an installed compressed air system for winterizing?
in General Discussion
Posted
Just draining the heater is all you need to do to it. What kills heaters is when the freezing water expands and ruptures the tank. If its mostly empty the water has lots of room to expand and no problems.
Blow out the lines and pour antifreeze in all the traps.