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WME

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by WME

  1. Back when you were discussing wire size "J" listed appropriate wire and fuse sizes. Please remember that a fuse is to protect the appliance from itself as well as to protect the wiring. Just because you are using 10 gauge wire somewhere doesn't mean you need to use a 30 amp fuse. A 5 amp fuse may be more appropriate for your load.

    Under fusing a large wire is safe, over fusing a small wire is NOT safe.

  2. Sounds like a rats nest.

    Assume starts with :buttwiggle:, assuming things around electricty makes for sparks and some times flames :bye2:

    Follow the wires with your eyeball.

    Clean grounds are not nice to have, they are required.

    Does your rig have a fuse block? Some rigs have more than 1 block.

    Most fuse blocks have a common + input to all the fuses and then indivdual + lines out to each load.

    Parallel means that the + of the converter is connected to the + of the battery and the - to -.

    The heater needs some eyeball work to see where the second + goes.

    good luck and go slow

    WME

  3. Warning "Cheap Carlie" move to follow. Remove one of the smaller window trims. Push the rest of the window trims back into place this will leave a gap in the trim, so cut the old trim to fit the gap. Buy new trim for one window instead of all the windows. The advantage to this is that the old trim is preshrunk and will not pull away again.

  4. Yea, about 20" of L shaped steel plate and a longer rear drive shaft. It looks like mine started as a 137" WB. If you look at my avatar you can see how little rear overhang there is compared to a Winnie 21ft.

    The way it looks is the frame was cut and jigged out to 147" then the plates were welded on. One top and side, the other bottom and side. That way the frame is fully boxed at the joint.

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