WME
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Posts posted by WME
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If no exhaust system check, then I vote for the local muffler shop.
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What she said.
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Unless you have a very strange Toyota MH, you NEED to PARK it until you get the tire thing fixed.
1. NORMAL Toyota RV come with 14" rims not 14.5" rims!!! put 14.5 tires on a 14" rim is VERY dangerous as you have found out. The rim will have the size (dia, width and rim style ) stamped into the metal somewhere on it CHECK YOURS.
There should be a warning to this effect on the tire its self.
2. 14.5" tires are trailer tires and should NEVER be used on a automobile.
There should also be a warning on the tire to this effect.
The correct tire for a Toyota RV is a 185/14-LT. A 185/70/14 is a car tire. If the tire guy says there isnt a 185/14-LT and you have to have a middle number find a tire store with smarter staff.
This what you want. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/tires/hankook/product/submitProductSize.do;jsessionid=BBYFJC8qgFG3ylgLRfEW-g__.dtc105?r=COBINT&pc=11011
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What state are you in? Did it pass inspection when you bought it?
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What brand sealer are you using?
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OK all you dripping wet crafty people, here ya go just what the doctor ordered.
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Good idea about reinforcing the mounting. I think I would use metal rectangular tubing and real bolts instead of wood and screws.
This will sound silly but make sure all your door and windows will work with the awning up or down when you go to hang it and the support arms.
Don't ask where this tidbit came from
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The roof ACs weigh in the range of 100lbs, so its normally a 2 person job to wrestle one around.
P.S. When I'm talking about a curved support I mean about 1" or so, just enough to give water some direction to drain off what used to be a flat roof.
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Put it back on ebay, you "really need" to spend the winter making an awning. Other wise think of all the trouble you will be grtting into with nothing to do.
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Flat or curved they will bend the same. With a curved support you can make much stronger with a simple truss.
A load applied to a curved support will try to flatten it and make it longer. On a toyhouse you would place the load on the wall and they would try to spread apart. But by placing the support over a exhisting roof beam and tying them togather you prevent the curved support from flatening out by spreading.
WME
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Put 2x4 under each end and jump in the middle. You can form anything with enough force
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See if you can give the u channel a bit of a curve, better drainage that way. Make sure the u channel goes to the edge, that's the only support.
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spray the plywood with a couple of coats of high build auto primer sanding between coats and spot putty as needed to fill voids, then 3 coats or so of high temp automotive paint and you will be good to go.
Nice idea, but why stop there? http://www.ebay.com/itm/250745550234?hlp=false&var=#ht_2925wt_970
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Because a RV flexs a lot epoxy is not the stuff, if almost forever perment mounting is what you want use 3-M 5200. Its flexabile amd sticks beyond anything else.
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I don't know what your time is worth to you and what the parts would cost. To keep from reinventing the wheel, there are 8ft bag awnings on Ebay for $150 delivered.
or something a bit more complicated
If nothing else these should be good for ideas.
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Have you stirred up so much brown sludge that you have plugged up the radiator???
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Drive it till its hot a few more times and keep adding water to the overflow bottle. When you shut off an engine it will get hotter for a while then start to cool down. That's the bubbles you heard.
Although you have a V-6 the 22re are famous for needing a cooling system burp after a refill. Some folks jack up the front as high as they can,. So that the radiator is higher than the engine and air will go there.
Might work for you too.
A completely not related problem that acts like this is a blown head gasket, it will keep pushing air into the cooling system.
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Just as many of the articles say to remove the anodize.
I thought your key point was no peeling. Remember that your anodize finish has lasted almost 20 years. The type of paint that will last like that is Imron and Awlgrip, the fumes from them are VERY toxic. That is why its beyond the average joe.If you try the rattle can self etch primer and final coat with a rattle can, expect 3-5 years before flakes. Clean should be your mantra.
The windows usually have some sealer between the glass and frame. The trim molding isn't the seal . Just be careful and try working around the inside of the glass with a razor.
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would putting some thin 1/4 ply board trim strips spaced out 6" or more help bed breath?
keeping bed off cabover frame?
That and a cut to size piece of peg board laid on top of the strips might to the trick.
But at night my butt still likes the added warmth from the Reflextix
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Because the temp difference is part of the cause of the condensation problem. I laid a couple layers of reflextix on the cab over bottom and it seemed to help. There may be some breathing effect with all the bubbles too. On cold nights it helps keep you warmer.
I don't take my bed apart when traveling.
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Yes you can paint aluminum, but not by the average guy at home. It requires a full body suit with positive air pressure to a full hood for the sprayer. Anybody else in the vicinity must wear cloth coveralls and a 1/2 face carbon respirator with goggles. The main paint for this type of work is Dupont Imron or Awlgrip
About the best the average joe can do is to take stuff to a shop that deals with this stuff and pay to have things painted.
I still think wax is the way to go.
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Your frames should be anodized, painting them is out. Easy answer is to wax them good. About the only non-peel finish is powder coating.
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Some people have used garage door weather-stripping. The stuff for the bottom of the door.
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Run the genset its cheaper in the long run. You can hang a curtian behind the cab seats so that your cab ac isn't trying to cool the entire unit. The cab ac is designed for cooling a pickup sized space.
The answer to your orginal question is, yes it can be done given enough money.
You would need about 150ah worth of house batteries, a 3000w pure sine inverter and a 160 amp alternater. Even then a single belt alternator is limited to around 80 amps, so you would need 2 belts or a newer serpertine ribbed belt to drive the alternator.
Even with all that your still going to need 5-7hp from the engine to power the big alternator, do you have spare hp? Whats that going to your mpg?
I thought your key point was no peeling. Remember that your anodize finish has lasted almost 20 years. The type of paint that will last like that is Imron and Awlgrip, the fumes from them are VERY toxic. That is why its beyond the average joe.
7x14.5 8ply motor home tires???
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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Yikes. For sure remove a front wheel and find the rim size and inspect the tire for a "trailer only" marking.